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Artie

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So I read what I could find about wigglers and decided that I definately 'needed' a set. Its duly arrived and while I know how to use the straight shaft units I am a lil stumped at the purpose of the offset indicator... I am assuming thst its used for finding centre of holes?? (please excuse the 'fluffy' pics)

Can anyone help with either a description of its useage or point me in the direction of an answer (preferably with pics ;-) )

02122009530.jpg


And what do I do?.....

02122009531.jpg
 
Dunno, but if you ever find out let me know as well - appears to be there just to fill up the extra pocket.
 
I think you will find it is for mounting a DTI to, so that it can be used for sweeping, as in being used for tramming or clocking your vice or workpiece.

I've never used mine, like I think 99.9999% of everyone else.

But maybe now you know what it is for, you will go ahead and use it.

Or maybe not.

For the others, this may help

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/wiggler/wiggler.html

Blogs
 
I have a couple of the type Cobra posted, but since I bought one that has a LED that lights up on contact, I never use anything else.
 
Kvom,
I have a laser version also. Expensive but good for me, if I didn't plan well and have to raise my round column mill in the middle of an operation.

IMG_0253.jpg


I always thought about buying the electric contact one

Tony
 
Hi Kvom,
Ordered a electronic EFder. $27.00US at Enco and McMaster. I ordered from McMaster and will have it tomorrow. No tax, next day delivery, Enco hits me for the sales tax and it take a week to get it.

I love gadgets!

Tony
 
Thank you everyone. That now makes sense. Strangely enough when I originally Googled the Wiggler it came up with several sites that explained how to use the edge finders and centre finders but made NO mention of the DTI mount....

Cheers Artie
 
Artie said:
...when I originally Googled the Wiggler...

Cheers Artie

I'm surprised a bunch of other weird stuff didn't pop up, knowing Google.

::)
 
cobra428 said:
I always thought about buying the electric contact one

cobra428 said:
Ordered a electronic EFder. $27.00US at Enco and McMaster. I ordered from McMaster and will have it tomorrow. No tax, next day delivery, Enco hits me for the sales tax and it take a week to get it.

I went down that road. It didn't work out for me; there was about .012" TIR on the one I had. After ruining a couple of parts and a bit of speaking in tongues, the cuplrit endied up being the electronic edge finder. It promptly was retired to the garbage can. If you have one, it is well worth your time in checking the TIR before relying on it!
 
WarEagle
I just used my the first time tonight. At first I taught it was broken. I brought to the edge and no light. Afraid to go further (scared to break off the toucher). So I took some wire, jump it and it lights. Back in the mach went a little further and it lighted. I then put a 1/2 gage block in the vise (gently) and .5005 1/4turn .5000 1/4 turn .5000 so forth and so on. Measured by Shooting Star DRO. So I don't know. It seams to me I got greater accuracy with the Electro.

Sorry you didn't like it.

Tony
 
I've used the DTI holder. That is until the ball came loose... :shrug:

I'd love to have that laser finder... But at $85 plus ship it's out of my unemployed budget...

Otherwise I use the disc and pointer for setup work.

There is a nice video from Swarfrat (http://swarfrat.com/Volume2.htm) shows how to use a wiggler and other neat stuff. Rental is cheap. Less than $10 to US addresses. (Not affiliated just a happy customer)
 
cobra428 said:
I just used my the first time tonight. At first I taught it was broken. I brought to the edge and no light. Afraid to go further (scared to break off the toucher). So I took some wire, jump it and it lights. Back in the mach went a little further and it lighted. I then put a 1/2 gage block in the vise (gently) and .5005 1/4turn .5000 1/4 turn .5000 so forth and so on. Measured by Shooting Star DRO. So I don't know. It seams to me I got greater accuracy with the Electro.
I may have received the only bananna made; not sure. Mine was the only one I have ever used, so please keep in mind I am not saying they are junk (well, mine was junk), just to check 'em before trusting them on something important. It sounds like you are good to go with yours!
 
Twmaster,
The Laser is nice but not so accurate. If you are using it to divide (centering) it's good. You have to judge (by eye) and shade the lights. A regular edge finder is the best all around bang for the buck. The only thing the laser does good for me is when I have to raise or lower the head (I have a round colum mill) so I can realign.
Tony
 
Wareagle,
You could not have said it better. I checked mine left and right front and back right side up and upside down before I put into service. Maybe you got a lemon? Don't know if that was the right term to use. This kind of stuff happens in manufacturing.
Tony
 


I bought one of the lite type from "horrible frite" and I decided to check it. I had about .020 TIR on it. Put a precision bar in chuck and no where near that kind of runout.

Just my .02 cents.

Ron
 
Cobra428,
I'm interested in hearing more detail about how you use the laser to re-align your mill's head after moving it.
How big is the spot? I am familiar with laser pointers and the spot is kinda big for precision work.
What kind of repeatability do you get after moving your head?
I have been considering mounting a laser on my head and shinning it across the shop onto a weighted string to re-align it once it has been raised or lowered, but the spot size is still a problem. I would be interested in hearing antibody's solution to this problem.


Thank you
Mike
 
Hi Mike,
All I do to realign is one of two ways (I have a DRO which helps).

1. Put laser in collet
2. move the work till laser hits edge
3. raise or lower head
4 . adj head till laser hits edge +/-.002

Now if you can't move the work (mach needs to be close to wall)

1. put laser on face of mach head
2. project laser on wall
3. mark spot on wall where laser hits (I put masking tape and mark spot on it)
4. Raise or lower head
5. align head with laser onto previous mark

IMG_0657.jpg


This is the most accurate way +/-.001 depending on how well you align to mark

Tricky aren't I

Tony
 
Thank you! I have been considering your second method, only hang a string with a plumb bob so it is verticle, all the way across the shop (20'), from the ceiling. Then mount the laser on the head, solidly, and aim the spot on the string. As the head moves up and down the laser would move up and down the string, if it strays, swivel the head till it hits the string.
Does this make sense?
Do you see anything wrong with it? (assuming I have explaned it well enuf to figure out :) )

Thx
MikeR C
 

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