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I missed what had happened. Sorry to hear about it.
But yeah! Keep at it. Looking forward to seeing it!
 
Yeah, Thanks Zee.
After I drilled the hole all looked good......till I miked it. Got to figure this one out. This is the engines foundation and needs to be right.

By the way any plans for Cabin Fever? I'll be there on Sat. That place should be a quick ride for you!

BillC, Thanks I'm almost done de-swarfing. Things might feel better in a clean shop

Tony

Taking a beer break now. I don't think the broom or vac can hurt me to bad, dust pans can be a little dangerous though Rof}
 
The 'plan' is to go. I've missed 2 other events because of family...either wife coming or going to Europe...or daughter coming or going to college. Now they're both home. But my knee has gone out.

I'll have a 'Z' on me somewhere...look me up...or down. ;D
 
I'll be wearing my cobra hat (from my car hobby days)

Tony
 
You're a rock solid guy, Tony. Many would have called it a day and moved on to something else by now.
Sorry to hear about this durn thing! Really hope you can fix it!

Dean
 
Hey Thanks Dean.
I'm like the little train that can!

Well, the shop is now clean of swarf. I want everyone to know that no swarf was harmed in it's recovery! :big:

After admiring the nice clean and organized shop, sipping on a suds, I decided to reread the article that EW wrote. And I quote "drill camshaft hole all the way through at this point and it must come out at the right spot". Then he goes on to something else. My quotation is a little off exact but basically that's what it says.

Well, there you go! Easy as pie! A walk in the park!.....Drill the hole all the way thru.

Oh well, onward. I'll give the suggestions I got a go and we'll see. More SWARF to come!

Tony
 
A couple of thoughts should you decide to start over.

1) Can you (partially) drill the holes on either end rather than all the way through from one end? I would have thought that drilling the hole(s) after hogging out the interior would be more accurate.

2) If that's not possible, how about drilling through, smaller than final size, and using a ground rod to align the rest of the part's sides and top?

3) I know you already cut off the top when remaking the bottom, but if you put a piece of round stock in the lathe offset in the 4-jaw, you could bore a straighter hole than drilling would give. Or use an endmill if boring is impractical.
 
kvom,
Thanks for your thoughts on this, every suggestion is a help. I've been knocking around the idea of the 4 jaw. That's the way it's pictured in the article. I did do the drill from both end thing but it seems any variance will throw the reamer off. Last night I DI'ed the vise vertically. I will try a couple of holes tonight and see which method will work the best.

Tony
 
[quote
.......................I'll have a 'Z' on me somewhere...look me up...or down. ;D
[/quote]





Just don't feel...... Rof} Rof} Rof}



BC1
Jim
 
BC1,

Thanks for the laugh......I needed it :bow:

Tony
 
Tony,

I'm feeling your agony...If I may offer another slant on this....

How about packing the upper to the cross slide and peck drill through with the lathe saddle? I also noticed in the photos of the first one that your drill chip is very long and straight as if the feed may be a bit too steep or fast? Pecking about .015 with maybe a .1875 or so bit should give you a very accurate hole then follow up slight increasing drills to reamer size. This 'pecking' is where a CNC mill comes in very handy - they're oblivious to the boredom of peck drilling deep holes! But with this set-up you could peck substantially smaller than the ream under size so that you could make a correction if need be with an easily made boring bar between centers.

Bill C.
 
BillC
Thank You. I picked up or I should say ordered a 3/16 4 flute 3/16 shank carbide end mill 1-1/4 cut 3"L. I'm going to give George's method as my first shot and I will peck, peck gently away. I ordered from McMaster and I usually get next day service because I'm close. I hate to take a grinder to a perfectly good and new end mill but if it does the job......it will save me both time and money!

The plan is to expose about a 1/2" of the end mill to start. Then as I go, another 1/4 then another 1/4 etc Till I get half way ....flip it over then start all over. After that open the hole with drills till I get into reamer range.

See you in about a month .....I have a felling this will take awhile :big:

Tony
 
dieselpilot,
Thanks, I'll have to sit back and give that a good read

Tony
 
Tony,
If we pooled our efforts we could have a good size box of "almost right crankcases".

After turning up the bits and pieces that go on the Lobo Mk2 crankcase I did a trial fit on the finished crankcase. They did not fit right. Somehow I bored the crankshaft hole 0.015 low. As a consolation prize the dozen tapped 0-80 holes were concentric with the bore. Set the DRO wrong I guess and kept working with it that way. So the replacement in progress is #4 for the MK2.

Are we having fun yet? :redface2:

Gail in NM
 
GailInNM,

Rof} Rof} Rof}

I know the DRO gives me a false sense of security. I sometimes think I can be a human CNC with it! One pass and wa-la a part.
We should pool our scrap bins and turn them in for $'s. We could then retire in Hawaii :big:

Tony
 
Next Victim,

I needed a block to experiment on. So I'll do it to the next basic block. If I spend all that time pecking and it works....I'm golden! If not, I still need a squared up piece to experiment with.

IMG_0794.jpg


DeJa Vou all over again

Tony
 
Peck it like a chicken, Tony!
Never say die, or never, or any of those other words..

Watching and hanging in with you.

Dean
 
Thanks Dean,
I'm going to get the chaise lounge out and tie a rope to the spider, get a big cigar, lay back and pull on the rope a little every 10 sec. :big:

Tony
 
cobra428 said:
Thanks Dean,
I'm going to get the chaise lounge out and tie a rope to the spider, get a big cigar, lay back and pull on the rope a little every 10 sec. :big:

Tony
Click to expand...
oh man...somebody's gotta draw that. ;D
 
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