Whittle Aero V8 WIP

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cobra428 said:
Zee, Thanks, I second the "cast no stone" The problem with the M&M is I keep eating them before I can take the pic!

You won't see any stones from this direction, either... maybe half a tap, or a pointless centerdrill... but no stones.

Instead of M&Ms, use a bottlecap like that fine specimen that Zeep uses. ;D
 
Vernon,
Sorry, I never saw one of Zee's bottle caps. Is it any good? Maybe I'll have to get some!

Well here's tonight episode

Taped the oil drain hole, If you don't want to break taps this is the gizmo HF don't remember how much but the price of 3 broken taps covers it.
CopyofIMG_0740.jpg


Made up the drain plug from 1/4 hex. Don't know about the O-ring maybe an alum washer or copper
IMG_0741.jpg


Engine mtg screws, bottom tap no break out or break in...depending how you look at it...2-56
IMG_0747.jpg


Can't eat the quarter Zee!! :big:
That's it for tonight, Time to do some cad for the upper block. I don't want to do it 3 times :big:
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Tony
 
Such amazing work. Seeing it on the tapping fixture really shows it's small size.

cobra428 said:
Vernon,
Sorry, I never saw one of Zee's bottle caps. Is it any good? Maybe I'll have to get some!
Yeah, it's a Guinness cap he's waving around all the time. Great stuff, although I've never seen him with any. ;D
 
Guinness
Vernon, that is some horrible stuff. Like a beer milk shake! Black and Tan ugh...like drinking syrup. give me a Becks Or Heineken with a shot of Jack... now we are talking! Call me old fashion but...no stout

Tony
 
Do you have any more to do on that part? I hope not...the suspense would kill me.
Thanks for showing the quarter...it just makes it more amazing.


Vernon said:
Yeah, it's a Guinness cap he's waving around all the time. Great stuff, although I've never seen him with any.

Only cause he hasn't paid up yet. It's been months!
 
Zee,
Yeah, more to do! I have to finish the upper block...then join the two.....then bore a big a.s hole (.833) (relitive) to accept the main bearings between the two. The suspense continues.....next episode ....will tony....(you know) (F up). Zee I'm pushing the outside of my envelope on this one. But, as they (who the heck are they anyway) say nonthing ventured nothing gained.

Tony
 
Tony,

Lovely stuff. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob
 
Bob,
Coming from the master, that's encouraging words.

Thanks

Tony
 
Looks great, Tony!

For that gasket/seal thing for the drain plug, check out some of the plastics. UHMW comes in a nice dark gray, and there are lots of other types that could be used. You can turn them to the size you need, and they can be parted off nice and thin. For materials, maybe check out nylon fasteners at the hardware store if you don't want to make a special order just for this piece.

Thanks for mentioning that tapping stand. I've had one on my "to build" list for about five years, but just never get around to it. If they're as inexpensive as they sound, would be cheaper to buy it than to buy materials.

Keep it up!

Dean
 
Dean,
HF took a beating dealing with me. Everytime I caught something on sale or... I pounced on it. Yeah, the credit Cards took a hit at the time but all is good now. Band saw $200 + now. I got mine for $79. Watch those flyers! My mill $1000 plus now....$800 with x feed...nailed them!

Tony
 
Before I make 3 upper crankcases, I did a little cad work after coming home from doing cad work all day. If it saves me from making 3, it will be worth it

Gail tell me if you see something out of wack I got .0095 into the center web with second cyl from the left?

Tony

View attachment Whittle_Upper Block.pdf
 
Tony, I got .604 bore spacing between the first and second cylinders. I also got .604 between the third and fourth but between the second and third I got .76. You might check those dimension out.
gbritnell
 
Tony,
You are correct that there is a 0.0095 interference between the cylinder hole and the web. It occurs on both left and right cylinder banks. It will not cause any problem because the cylinder walls are 0.020 thick, so the bore clears the web. BUT you must bore the cylinder mount holes a minimum of 0.200 deep, a little extra won't hurt, to clear the bottom of the cylinder skirt. Since the crankcase is 0.150 thick there, you only need to go in a little over 0.05 into the web. I think I went in 0.218 overall so I would have an extra 0.018 of wiggle room. Don't remember for sure.

Also note that there is a similar interference on the outside cylinders to the end of the crankcase on both the left and right sides. It is almost 15 thou, so the same boring depth precaution applies there, that is 0.200 minimum bore depth.

Gail in NM
 
Thanks Gail,
I saw the cut that has to be made to the front and rear covers to clear the cyl.. I feel better now that someone doubled checked me

Thanks Again
Tony
 
George , Gail,
Did the datum dim to make it easier for me drive the DRO. No Math now, just HNC (Hand Numeric Control). Thanks for your input and concern. It's always nice to have the experts looking out for ya! Happy Holidays!

Tony
 
Gail,
I just got through on the Whitle Yahoo site. I had to straighten the boys out on engine rotation. They've never flown anything and they think...well I'll had to....Euro a/c engines of that era turned the "other way" to US engines (and still some to this day). No need to reverse or "mirror" the cam. EW knew what he was doing. Pusher prop.. opposite rotation....is just the way it is. Don't even thinking about listening to those yokells :big:

Tony
 
Tony,
I saw your reply on the group.

Now to muddy the water a little bit more. The only stationary photo I have of the original Eric Whittle engine with a prop on it has a right hand prop. It is mounted on the test stand so I assume that it was ready to run at the time. That would indicate that the original was set up for CW rotation as viewed from behind. Makes me wonder if he did the drawing different from what he built. :shrug: I never saw the V* run, but I know that the ROBIN, which was his single cylinder engine just before the V8, turned in the standard US convention, that is used a right hand prop. I shared a table with Eric Whittle at NAMES the year he had the Robin on display so got to see quite a bit of it.

I have not worked out the cam at all, so I can't speak with any authority on it.

Following along with you on your build has refreshed my memory and gotten me somewhat back to being current with the drawings and the engine design. If we keep talking back and forth on it, I may have to resume the build on the Whittle after I put the Lobo Twin project to bed. That will be several weeks away at best as I am going to build a second Lobo to incorporate all the changes that I have made.

Gail in NM
 
Gail
I'm glad I "sparked" your interest again in the Whittle. When I saw the U-tube vid it looks like the engine is running CW.....But as we all know....when the fan blades are running in the house the fan looks like they are running backwards. Just like the wagon wheels in the movies. EW's and if you notice it says "prototype run" in the title. I think that's EW's run the prop looks like it's going CW where in reality it's going CCW. Just my opinion.....and that's not worth much!

Tony

Is RJW his brother? W?
There was a post by RJW?? in my thread and I went back and can't find it. Mystery Guest? Mystery Guest told me to use a pusher prop!
 
Hi All,
After the holiday fun, I got back to the shop. So here's tonight's fun.

Bring the inside to spec. At least I hope! Drill and tap all associated holes (0-80 and 2-56 heart pounding)
IMG_0764.jpg


Getting to look like a block for Christmas!
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The inside
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Tomorrow the other side (inside all done just the cyl holes etc...)

HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!

Tony
 

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