Ok, I called the man today and he is going to deliver me a used Bridgeport with a 9x32 table. I have never used a milling machine and am wanting some advice on what endmills and other tooling to get for building a small engine. It has an R 8 spindle. For interests sake, this mill is a 220 volt 3 phase with step pulleys. I am paying $1,200 and he is delivering. Luckily he was planning to go down to New Orleans from Arkansas to get some tools and will be passing close to me here. Thanks in advance for all help!!! David
What tools do I need for mill?
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ShedBoy
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I just moved mine into storage :'( while I build a new home for it.
Not the lightest thing to move even with the head removed. It is in my next door neighbours shed.
Expect to pay more for tooling than the machine. If you already have collets for your lathe try to find a holder to suit them. Rotary table is nice.
Brock
Not the lightest thing to move even with the head removed. It is in my next door neighbours shed.
Expect to pay more for tooling than the machine. If you already have collets for your lathe try to find a holder to suit them. Rotary table is nice.
Brock
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Assuming you have a 220V outlet, or else the first issue is to get power. Then download the manual and learn all the functions and how to lubricate.
Given that it's a pulley machine, I can recommend installing a VFD to control speed, otherwise you might get tired changing pulleys all the time.
A DRO and a drive unit for the table make things a lot easier than having to rely on the dials.
You need a good 6" vise along with a way to attach it. A clamping set will supply what's needed as far as t-nuts and the like. You'll need a digital indicator and a way to attach it to the spindle in order to tram the vise to the table. Then you need a set of parallels.
A set of R8 collets is needed. While you can get by with sizes by 1/16ths, I recommend getting a set by 1/32nds if the budget allows.
While you can get a drill chuck with an R8 arbor, you may find that a straight 1/2" shank arbor used with a collet might work just as well. A chuck with a 0-1/2 range will handle anything.
With a few endmills and a set of drills you're good to start up. Of course, you never stop adding more stuff once you get going.
Given that it's a pulley machine, I can recommend installing a VFD to control speed, otherwise you might get tired changing pulleys all the time.
A DRO and a drive unit for the table make things a lot easier than having to rely on the dials.
You need a good 6" vise along with a way to attach it. A clamping set will supply what's needed as far as t-nuts and the like. You'll need a digital indicator and a way to attach it to the spindle in order to tram the vise to the table. Then you need a set of parallels.
A set of R8 collets is needed. While you can get by with sizes by 1/16ths, I recommend getting a set by 1/32nds if the budget allows.
While you can get a drill chuck with an R8 arbor, you may find that a straight 1/2" shank arbor used with a collet might work just as well. A chuck with a 0-1/2 range will handle anything.
With a few endmills and a set of drills you're good to start up. Of course, you never stop adding more stuff once you get going.
I do have a rotary phase convertor but I will probably use the VFD that is on my powermatic wood lathe. Anyone need a PM 90?
Have a full woodworking shop that includes a Southbend wood lathe. Ever seen one of those? Kinda off topic....
Have a full woodworking shop that includes a Southbend wood lathe. Ever seen one of those? Kinda off topic....
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Good choice for the mill, A VFD is surely the way to go with a step pulley machine. THe suggestion basic items needed are the collets, the chinese jobs are often okay, I replaced the 1/2 and 3/8 sizes as they are the one the I use with the edge finder (get a fisher brand, works best) and a 1/4 keyless chuck for the small drills. Suggest you get a 5/8 Albrecht or other keyless chuck rather than a 1/2, since you now have backgear, big S&D drills can be used, often the 1/2 chuck will lock up too tight to be released by hand, so then a strap wrench or xlarge channel locks will be need to loosen chuck, its not a problem when using the 5/8 size.
A 6" vise for sure, Kurt has the name, but used sell for $250, and imports are less than that New, a boring head 3" size should do most everything, a set of small angle blocks, the ones are 1/4 thick come in a wood box, cheap enough, a couple pairs of 123 blocks, with tapped holes, an interapid or other name stem mount indicator, don't buy a co-axial, HSS and a few carbide EM's mostly 3/8 but a few of smaller and larger sizes.
the above will cost $$$ but will last forever, except EM, drills.
A 6" vise for sure, Kurt has the name, but used sell for $250, and imports are less than that New, a boring head 3" size should do most everything, a set of small angle blocks, the ones are 1/4 thick come in a wood box, cheap enough, a couple pairs of 123 blocks, with tapped holes, an interapid or other name stem mount indicator, don't buy a co-axial, HSS and a few carbide EM's mostly 3/8 but a few of smaller and larger sizes.
the above will cost $$$ but will last forever, except EM, drills.
rustyknife
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Don't forget a clamping kit with all kinds of options, and a milling vise
You will NEED a dial indicator, a test indicator, and a set of calipers minimum for measuring things
You will NEED a dial indicator, a test indicator, and a set of calipers minimum for measuring things
Mosey
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A micrometer?
Isn't that the first thing a new machinist buys, and has for his or her entire life? Makes you feel like you will someday become a real machinist too.
Isn't that the first thing a new machinist buys, and has for his or her entire life? Makes you feel like you will someday become a real machinist too.
rustyknife
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I grab the test indicator probably 8 out of 10 times usually. I think you'll find both are necessary
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Test-Indicator-0-001-Resolution/G9610
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Test-Indicator-0-001-Resolution/G9610
The basics:
- A GOOD 6" vise. I'd not go smaller with that mill. A big vise can do everything a small one can, + more, like hold insert vises
- A set of parallels
- R8 collets in 1/8", 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" and 3/4". The rest can come later
- Cutters. Like the vise, IMO it pays to buy better than cheap Asian cutters. To our eyes and fingers, the cheap ones look and feel just as good as high Q cutters. But our eyes cannot resolve things like precision in the flutes, geometry, and the like. You'll want regular and ball probably between 1/4" and 1/2" to start. Eventually, you'll have dozens. One of those wooden reloading blocks the gun guys use make great EM holders.
- A decent drill chuck w/R8 shank. I like the Albrecht keyless style.
- Clamping set. The cheap-o's are fine
- Gadgets like edge finders, etc.
Next step:
- A boring head. One of my most-often used mill tools. Boring cutters to fit.
- 5C collets and any number of fixtures, spacers, dividing devices that accept them. Especially the simple square and hex 5C collet blocks. They are very useful
- Rotary table, but I don't use mine that much. Others find them valuable.
- Angle irons in various sizes.
- a GOOD face mill. I don't know why more people don't use them. Maybe it's a HP or rigidity issue. You can get rid of those corn-rows of 1/2" tooling marks and with good technique, your flat surfaces will appear to be ground. Skip the TPG-22X or 32X face mill and find one that has good rake and insert geometry. Well worth it.
- 123 blocks.
"Elite" status:
- Universal dividing head w/chucks and tail stock
- Automatic boring/facing head
- tapping head
There are many, many more I have forgotton. I'd place a DRO somewhere in there. Be sure to include Z. After working with a DRO, I'll never go back. And the VFD is a great suggestion. I retrofitted my step-pulley mill with one and I LOVE it. Instant dial-a-speed. Better than the VS mill heads with the slip-sheave arrangement.
Have fun!
- A GOOD 6" vise. I'd not go smaller with that mill. A big vise can do everything a small one can, + more, like hold insert vises
- A set of parallels
- R8 collets in 1/8", 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" and 3/4". The rest can come later
- Cutters. Like the vise, IMO it pays to buy better than cheap Asian cutters. To our eyes and fingers, the cheap ones look and feel just as good as high Q cutters. But our eyes cannot resolve things like precision in the flutes, geometry, and the like. You'll want regular and ball probably between 1/4" and 1/2" to start. Eventually, you'll have dozens. One of those wooden reloading blocks the gun guys use make great EM holders.
- A decent drill chuck w/R8 shank. I like the Albrecht keyless style.
- Clamping set. The cheap-o's are fine
- Gadgets like edge finders, etc.
Next step:
- A boring head. One of my most-often used mill tools. Boring cutters to fit.
- 5C collets and any number of fixtures, spacers, dividing devices that accept them. Especially the simple square and hex 5C collet blocks. They are very useful
- Rotary table, but I don't use mine that much. Others find them valuable.
- Angle irons in various sizes.
- a GOOD face mill. I don't know why more people don't use them. Maybe it's a HP or rigidity issue. You can get rid of those corn-rows of 1/2" tooling marks and with good technique, your flat surfaces will appear to be ground. Skip the TPG-22X or 32X face mill and find one that has good rake and insert geometry. Well worth it.
- 123 blocks.
"Elite" status:
- Universal dividing head w/chucks and tail stock
- Automatic boring/facing head
- tapping head
There are many, many more I have forgotton. I'd place a DRO somewhere in there. Be sure to include Z. After working with a DRO, I'll never go back. And the VFD is a great suggestion. I retrofitted my step-pulley mill with one and I LOVE it. Instant dial-a-speed. Better than the VS mill heads with the slip-sheave arrangement.
Have fun!
smfr said:
Hi Simon - I messed with several before I found one I really like. Most of the inexpensive face mills use triangular TPG inserts, and the inserts are presented to the work with zero rake. They work, but IMO are prone to chatter and poor finishes compared to face mills that use dedicated inserts, rather than the very generic TPG inserts.
Unfortunately, they can be pretty expensive. The good news is, I am still on the original set of inserts after five years of use, and have only rotated them once.
Here's a typical cheapie:
And one of many with inserts designed for milling with good geometry. You can take a mill like this and plow a 2" path 0.062" deep through 7075 aluminum and it looks like it was done by a grinder. Although more normally, I'd rough with a 3/4" rougher, leaving behind 0.010" or so for cleanup with the face mill.
Taking the anodize skin off of an aluminum extrusion:
Sorry for the large pics. If you can't tell, I love mine, and it is one of my favorite (and most often used) mill cutter. Saves a LOT of time, not having to go back and forth, back and forth, with a tiny end mill. The traditional Home Shop way to do this is fly cutting. Fly cutters do work, and are great for a budget, but I haven't touched mine since I picked up a good face mill.
These are two-piece deals - you'll need an arbor, and the cutter head itself. Different heads can be used on the same arbor.
