Weekend Project "Mill Riser"

[Jack]

This past weekend I decided to make a Riser for my Grizzly 3103 Mill, mostly to give me just a little bit more vertical space for drilling. Today my newest addition arrived itis a Phase II 8" rotary table which I purchased from Enco out of the monthly sale flyer along with a free shipping coupon available here and elsewhere, I'm impressed with the quality, fit and finish now I'm glad that I have the extra height, I can't wait to use this bad boy. I havea set of drawings for a scale model "Hit & Miss" engine coming in a few days, I will keep everybody updated on my progress when I start :

BEFORE

AFTER

New Rotary Table

 

[Powder keg]

Great Job!!! It will make a big difference in how much you can do with your mill.

Cheers, Wes

 

[Brass_Machine]

That is some riser! What kinda lift did you get?

Eric

 

[Jack]

That my Boy, is 40 lbs of steel 6.25" in diameter and 5.5" in height. It was quite a challenge to turn, to put the internal flange on it so that the old parts would match up with the new. By the way, the rotary is almost 4.5" tall so I thought that 5.5" would be about right. Besides, I'm too dumb to know if it is right or wrong, but it seems very solid and I'll learn to live with it.

 

[macona]

I have seen that same mod done on some old millrites. Next time check into some durabar. It is a cast iron. Real nice to work with. Also has the added benefit of dampening vibrations.

 

[Mcgyver]

the old timers 'll tell you, its not the table size or travel or hp that's the constraint to watch for when picking a mill, its the daylight - and you made a real improvement to that. let us know how it works; if there's any change in behavior.

 

[Don Huseman]

I have a Lagun milling machine. It looks like a Bridgeport . I bought a 8" riser for it . I don't have a lot of room around the machine. I was thinking of putting about 20 " of wood blocks on the table and bolting the ram with the milling head still on and raising the ram and head up using the table. then I would put in the riser block and bolt the ram home. Unbolt the ram from the table and lower away. Has any body done this before. Does 8" seem to be right or will I always be short is I need to mill any thing on mounted on the table.
I have to stand on a box to change the draw bar. When I get the riser in I will install a Quick change air operated draw bar changer device.

 

[Alphawolf45]

I rather have taller in the Z than shorter but one of my mills is just about too high.Its high enough to be a nuisance at times..I cannot clamp a workpiece flat on the table and come close to the tabletop with an average length 1/4 inch dia. endmill...I have to set the workpiece up on 1 inch parallels and maybe still extend the endmill out farther in the collet than is usual good procedure..
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And Don Huseman mentioned needing a power drawbar after adding an 8 inch lift..My problem just the opposite I am too tall for a stock mill..Finally I set my favorite Bridgeport clone 2500 pound 9" by 42" table ,lifted and set the entire mill up on a 10 inch high base and now for first time my back dont kill me from stooping over to see my work..I can still (barely) work the drawbar standing flat footed....

 

[Alphawolf45]

One old manual Gorton mill I have is too small clearance under its nose..I would happily raise the head on a riser block as Jack done here 'cept my mill is built different...
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Following up what I said about blocking up entire machine.I can add that I have set several of my machines up on steel frames making them less strain for a tall man to use PLUS I am able to slide quick underneath them with a pallet jack to move the machine out away from the wall as required..............My 20 inch vertical bandsaw is good example, it lot easier for me to use with it set up 8 inch higher plus I have had to pull it away from the wall several times to access wiring for it or the machines shoved against each side of it....