The Boxford Files

[wareagle]

Well, the heat transfer through metal is at a much different rate than through chicken. The problem with bare metals is that they tend to not absorb heat efficiently. Smooth and shiny means that it will take more to get it heated up than a painted metal will.

I am assuming you want it to heat soak (meaning heated evenly throughout), so I think I would let it heat for at least an hour, if not longer. One thing is for sure, it won't get any hotter than what the oven is!

 

[CrewCab]

the duck will take less time per lb than the chicken.

Cheers Bob ..........

CC

 

[CrewCab]

W/E ............ the Oven is on low, the Freezer is on .............. errrrrrrrrr .................. Freeze


and in 3 mins they will have been in for an hour,


OK Chuck ............ Round 2

CC

 

[CrewCab]

Round 3 in about an hour ???

CC

 

[dsquire]

CrewCab

Leave chicken or duck in the oven for too long and it burns. That won't be a problem with steel. If it does burn, you better check your oven!

cheers

Don

 

[CrewCab]

Don, I just hope the oven has a better life expectancy than the toaster ;D

CC

 

[dsquire]

CrewCab

Ya got that one right!

Cheers

Don

 

[CrewCab]

Right, Chuck fits and to be sure it's tight ;D

another very tedious session taking "dust" off with each skim, but, for the sake of the couple of hours it's taken compared to howmany hours use it will get I think that's a fair trade off.

OK nothing very exciting guys but for us beginners it's a big step .................using a 6mm ground bar, run out seems to be around about 1 thou (0.001") so I think that's pretty fair for a first OK, third attempt :

CC

 

[CrewCab]

I was wrong, checked the run out again this morning and to be fair you could see it by eye .............. it was miles off .......... about 3/4mm (30thou +) .................. no idea how I managed to measure almost no run out last night, either the drill rod I used was "happily" bent the correct amount or mi' old eyes just had had enough ???

Anyway, obviously that amount of run out is not "good" ???

Sorry if this is simple stuff gang, but when I was looking to start up again a few months back "simple stuff" was hard to find, so if this helps at least one new convert then I think it's worth while.

There was something fundamental wrong somewhere, after much soul searching, chastising the chuck, (with words your unlikely to hear in Church) and of course (for the Monty Python Fans) beating it with a twig ;D eventually I realised the backplate was not screwing completely onto the spindle :wall: ............. that would be not "registering" I believe ....... :fan:

OK Toys were out of the window by this stage, for Gawd's sake if I can't get a chuck to fit how an I ever going to rival some of the wonderful creations on here ............ so short version ...........

Bored out the backplate register by about (almost nothing), backplate then screwed on correctly, refaced it ........ to the tune of "Swoosh".Swoosh","Swoosh" ........... godammit how far out was that ??? ............... back to yesterday's stage of taking a nad's at a time off the spigot till I felt it was a good fit, eventually got the dam thing with a maximum runout at about .11mm (3thou) .......... and then thought ............. I can improve on this ............. famous last words ............. next skim gave nearly 7thou run out ............ at this stage I'm thinking of taking up flower arranging

Back to the drawing board, light skim of everything, and I mean light, wire wool might have taken more off ........... clean all the mating surfaces and blow off with an air line, bolt on chuck, still tight and needs to be pulled up with the mounting bolts ............ (don't even ask about separating it by the way) still 6thou run out ........... unbolt, rotate 60degrees, re-tighten etc ........... 6 thou out .............. and once more ...............



It's a metric gauge and I make that "pretty good" ;D a nad's over 0.1mm or around about 1/2thou; anyway, I'm just pleased I've sorted it at bloomin last ;D

At last ........... I'm a happy bunny again .............. on with the show ............. (really I'm off for a lie down), I've got a 5" 4jaw to deal with yet :

CC

 

[wareagle]

CC, stay at it buddy! You'll get 'er done! It may take a little "beating it into submission" but you'll have a darned fine lathe when you are finished!

 

[CrewCab]

The lathe really is just fine W/E ............... I just worry about the operator :

CC

 

[Divided He ad]

Flowery tw*ts!! That's the branch beating bit Chief

:big: You remember all that scary fun I had with my chuck? I know how you feel!

Bet your relieved now that it's running true though?

And a 4 jaw to do as well.... Good job your hair's already turning grey




Good luck..... So how soon do we see your second engine?? (not trying to hurry you.... Much )



Ralph.

 

[jonnie]

Hi

This thread is old but no harm in replying as others may still read it.

I read this thread before purchasing my boxford, I had exactly the same concerns regards moving the machine into my workshop.

In the end I did not risk unbolting the headstock, all the talk of the mastic and how hard it could be to remove put me off.

I did remove the tailstock.

Then...note the two holes in the photo (first post in this thread) the holes are just underneath the tray in the cabinet and are visible in the photo. They go right through the cabinet.

All you need is steel bar that will fit through and is a little longer than the cabinet is wide, then you have four carrying handles.

Then find four reasonably strong folk and away you go.

Jon

 

[jonnie]

Does anyone have a good source of information regards dismantling and re-assembling the cross-slide and carriage?

This may sound very naive but I still havent figured how to dismantle the cross slide, mine has a little bit of roughness in the action which I can 'feel' is down to the thread or the nut in which it turns - I would just like to take it apart and check it out.

I would like to dismantle, inspect and possibly renew parts if that is possible.

I was hoping for a book along the lines of restoring a boxford ( TUD in my case ).

Thanks
Jon

 

[Omnimill]

Hi

This thread is old but no harm in replying as others may still read it.

I read this thread before purchasing my boxford, I had exactly the same concerns regards moving the machine into my workshop.

In the end I did not risk unbolting the headstock, all the talk of the mastic and how hard it could be to remove put me off.

I did remove the tailstock.

Then...note the two holes in the photo (first post in this thread) the holes are just underneath the tray in the cabinet and are visible in the photo. They go right through the cabinet.

All you need is steel bar that will fit through and is a little longer than the cabinet is wide, then you have four carrying handles.

Then find four reasonably strong folk and away you go.

Jon

Yep, we did that at work many years ago with two Boxfords!

 

[Boxfordian]

Rather partial to a boxford myself