Hey looking at the blow up again you just need to take the screws out of the apron and the end of the lead screw pillow block and support it then drive the lead screw out, it'll slide through the other pillow block.
South Bend 8K photos
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Hey looking at the blow up again you just need to take the screws out of the apron and the end of the lead screw pillow block and support it then drive the lead screw out, it'll slide through the other pillow block.
I thought while I was waiting for the spindle I'd take advantage of the nice weather and pull my Dewalt table saw and Makita planer out. I ripped a piece of mahogany in half to make some micrometer cases. Also stop at the Tool Shed and found a nice older Delta scroll saw, real quiet and I already had the stand from the drill press.
I think I'll call Grizzly and see where my spindle is (3:00 west coast)
I think I'll call Grizzly and see where my spindle is (3:00 west coast)
Awhile back I made the first mod to the not so well thought out spindle lube setup. I pulled the "ball oilers" (grease fittings) and drilled out the ball and spring and made brass plugs. Makes it way easier to get the oil in.
The second mod I started today are two oil spray overflow guards for inside the headstock. They're just flexible thick plastic paper folders cut to shape. I'll rough them and the paint inside the headstock and epoxy them in place. The inside holes are big enough to let the spindle's journals pass through with room to spare.
The third mod is a hole drilled in the pulley side bearing flange at exactly the same height as the chuck side opening bottom. This puts both drains at exactly the center of the lowest roller bearing's center, right where Timkin recommends. Oil any higher can cause churning/ friction/ heat.
Also without the pulley side hole any overfilling of that side's bearing goes in the headstock.
The second mod I started today are two oil spray overflow guards for inside the headstock. They're just flexible thick plastic paper folders cut to shape. I'll rough them and the paint inside the headstock and epoxy them in place. The inside holes are big enough to let the spindle's journals pass through with room to spare.
The third mod is a hole drilled in the pulley side bearing flange at exactly the same height as the chuck side opening bottom. This puts both drains at exactly the center of the lowest roller bearing's center, right where Timkin recommends. Oil any higher can cause churning/ friction/ heat.
Also without the pulley side hole any overfilling of that side's bearing goes in the headstock.
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herrointment
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Howdy folks,
This is my first post on this forum but I've been following"mikbuls" SB 1001 posts here for quite some time. I first became aware of this lathe on the Cloudy Nights astronomy forum where mikbul had a short thread about turning some counterweights.
Many months later, after lots of "research" and some second-guessing a new SB 1001 is sitting in a friends shop as I wait for my driveway to dry out after the snow melt of last week. The stand is built and clean up is down to checking the spindle for grease........today sometime and I'm not looking forward to it!
Quickly I'll say I'm pretty happy with the fit and finish on the machine. I'm a woodworker and own 3 Grizzly labeled machines...a 19 inch bandsaw...8 inch jointer and floor-model mortiser....and am familiar with the time it takes to set up and mod the machines. It is time well spent as they have been very accurate and have held their settings. These machines offer good value and perform as well as the tuning they receive. I'm expecting this metal lathe will offer up the same experience. Cleaning the lathe has removed lots of filings/junk, revealed some pretty nice details and has given me a good overview of a machine that I have not operated since 1978! So I'm a very raw beginner and am bound to ask a few stupid questions here and there...fair warning.
Mikbul, thanks for this thread. I wouldn't own the SB 1001 without some of the information presented here.
I'll post here what I find in the bearings if that's OK (?). Your oiling mods I'll try after you post some results.
As you posted earlier in this thread and I paraphrase..."It's two bearings and a spindle. Not a big deal." That helps!
Looking forward to more from you about this lathe.
Jim
This is my first post on this forum but I've been following"mikbuls" SB 1001 posts here for quite some time. I first became aware of this lathe on the Cloudy Nights astronomy forum where mikbul had a short thread about turning some counterweights.
Many months later, after lots of "research" and some second-guessing a new SB 1001 is sitting in a friends shop as I wait for my driveway to dry out after the snow melt of last week. The stand is built and clean up is down to checking the spindle for grease........today sometime and I'm not looking forward to it!
Quickly I'll say I'm pretty happy with the fit and finish on the machine. I'm a woodworker and own 3 Grizzly labeled machines...a 19 inch bandsaw...8 inch jointer and floor-model mortiser....and am familiar with the time it takes to set up and mod the machines. It is time well spent as they have been very accurate and have held their settings. These machines offer good value and perform as well as the tuning they receive. I'm expecting this metal lathe will offer up the same experience. Cleaning the lathe has removed lots of filings/junk, revealed some pretty nice details and has given me a good overview of a machine that I have not operated since 1978! So I'm a very raw beginner and am bound to ask a few stupid questions here and there...fair warning.
Mikbul, thanks for this thread. I wouldn't own the SB 1001 without some of the information presented here.
I'll post here what I find in the bearings if that's OK (?). Your oiling mods I'll try after you post some results.
As you posted earlier in this thread and I paraphrase..."It's two bearings and a spindle. Not a big deal." That helps!
Looking forward to more from you about this lathe.
Jim
Nice to hear from you again, and can't wait to hear about setting up and breaking in your new lathe!
At this point I wouldn't worry about the mods, I know a few have been running fine without them. If you stick to the manual and get the oil in there no worries.
I look forward to your posts.
PM me if you have any questions you don't want posted.
Mikbul
The Etalon case is done and the Tesa needs some more poly. Both these mics are going in my collection, I got them for a song from George but the cases were worn. The Etalon case bottom was twisted, hand planed it straight. Those are the mini hand planes I used from Harbor Freight, $ 10.00 for the set and they work great.
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gambit_mb
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Hi Jim!
Welcome to the unofficial South Bend 8K owners group. I also purchased my 8K because of the information Mike has posted in this awesome thread. I believe this will be the holy grail of threads for this lathe. Hope to hear about your experiences with your lathe and I am sure you will enjoy it as much as I do.
Pat
gambit_mb
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Yes, that will be the plan. I need to make some 3/8-16 studs for a vise on the mill and need to change that gear. Probably do that tomorrow.
I ended finding the problem with the tail stock quill. I guess the guide pin had rubbed and created a ridge on the edge of the key way so I just filed it down and seems to be better than new now.
For some reason I haven't received an email on this thread for updates since Wednesday. I figured I should come check it out because you never miss a weekend post. I was surprised to see the amount of posts I missed.
There's a lot of torque on that pin and slot, I should pull mine apart and give it a manicure. When I was power tapping with those spiral taps and drilling those deep holes it was rotating the quill some. There's another opportunity for a mod. to make the lathe better.
I always check the two threads as a habit and I've never gotten an e-mail from PM? 27,000 views and not one e-mail! There was a guy on there I _ off for editing too much because he'd get an e-mail with something I wrote and decided to delete it and confuse him. Thing is I never got e-mails so I didn't think about it. I try not to edit as much but it's a habit.*club*
I always check the two threads as a habit and I've never gotten an e-mail from PM? 27,000 views and not one e-mail! There was a guy on there I _ off for editing too much because he'd get an e-mail with something I wrote and decided to delete it and confuse him. Thing is I never got e-mails so I didn't think about it. I try not to edit as much but it's a habit.*club*
herrointment
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Serial # SB 1001-1272
Date of Manufacture 03-13
Shipped from Springfield, Mo.
Date of Manufacture 03-13
Shipped from Springfield, Mo.
Thank you
Mikbul
gambit_mb
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Nice! A newer batch. At least we know they made at least 2 batches of these lathes. This is the first one that wasn't from 2011......am I right Mike?
This is the second 2013 8K, Jauringer's was the first. What happened to 2012? I'm wondering if they jumped to sending 2013's until they figure out the scope of the problem batch, if so anyone ordering one now probably won't find black grease.
herrointment
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Opened up the drive side of the spindle and man it is hard to tell what's in there. If forced to guess I'll say oil but here's a couple of inconclusive photos and any guesses are welcome.
Also, my buddy pulled apart the tailstock which was very rough and stiff to begin with. Lots of trouble simply taking it apart...handle ultra tight (after pin removal) centering plugs stuck, rough castings and bearing seats (races?) beat up. 5 hours later it is better and more fiddling with the centering plugs may improve it. I get the impression it was put together improperly and things were forced (at the factory).
The spindle cover photos....one is of an orange rag dragged across the back end.
Also, my buddy pulled apart the tailstock which was very rough and stiff to begin with. Lots of trouble simply taking it apart...handle ultra tight (after pin removal) centering plugs stuck, rough castings and bearing seats (races?) beat up. 5 hours later it is better and more fiddling with the centering plugs may improve it. I get the impression it was put together improperly and things were forced (at the factory).
The spindle cover photos....one is of an orange rag dragged across the back end.
Sounds like the spindle I just sent back. If it doesn't look like thick black grease in there I would flush the bearings by filling the chuck side until it runs out on your bench and put the same amount of oil in the pulley side. put it in low about 50 rpms for ten minutes, then flush the chuck side until it runs out again and pull the pulley side flange and let it drain. Do this a few times until you get nice clean oil out then oil it up and move on.
Mikbul
herrointment
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Works for me!
Thanks for your help.
Jim
Thanks for your help.
Jim
gambit_mb
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Getting the gear off was easier than expected. There is yet another brass bushing on the end of the lead screw that just popped of will a little pulling on the 48T gear that was closest to the bearing. Then just hammered out the brass and found the key way was a little tight. Just cleaned it up with a file and now it slides on better.
