I would like to hear some opinions about which is better:a shoulder bolt or a bolt with a sleeve. If you would present us with your offering in a pros and cons style , it will be a great help to my learning curve ???(Total Newbee) I've seen both and I don't know the reasoning. Thanks and Take Care ~Rich
Shoulder Bolt vs. Bolt with Sleeve ? ?
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Lew_Merrick_PE
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Rich,
The answer, like most things, is, "It depends..." A shoulder screw (aka stripper bolt) is reasonably good quality steel in a Rc 37-43 temper that is a fair slip-fit (nominal -.001 to -.003 depending on size) to the nominal size you purchased it as (i.e. a 1/2 inch shoulder screw is made to a ø.500 -.002/-.004 tolerance -- often shown as ø.498/ø.496) and will fit very nicely (in almost every instance) an a -.001 hole reamed press-fit for a dowel pin. The shoulder surface of the screw will be quite straight and square to the reference surface with a good smooth (64 microinch) finish. Many of these conditions are hard to duplicated on a home shop lathe.
A good quality bolt with a well made sleeve can be made to you exact dimensions (within the scope of your lathe and abilities). You can use very high quality steel to make it and, if you have the practice and experience down pat and the tooling to support it, you can make a very hard (Rc 45-50 can be very nice) surface for you application. You can also mandrel mount your sleeve for such operations as adding a snap-ring groove (which can be tricky to add to a shoulder screw) or stand-off shoulder (usually accomplished with custom washers when using a shoulder screw).
Probably the biggest argument for making a sleeve is that it is expensive to purchase a small quantity of shoulder screws. As I usually get them in boxes of 50 or 100 (depending on size), that is less a "driver" from my side of the fence, but that does not change the facts for a person needing only 1 or 2. As I said, the answer is, "it depends..."
The answer, like most things, is, "It depends..." A shoulder screw (aka stripper bolt) is reasonably good quality steel in a Rc 37-43 temper that is a fair slip-fit (nominal -.001 to -.003 depending on size) to the nominal size you purchased it as (i.e. a 1/2 inch shoulder screw is made to a ø.500 -.002/-.004 tolerance -- often shown as ø.498/ø.496) and will fit very nicely (in almost every instance) an a -.001 hole reamed press-fit for a dowel pin. The shoulder surface of the screw will be quite straight and square to the reference surface with a good smooth (64 microinch) finish. Many of these conditions are hard to duplicated on a home shop lathe.
A good quality bolt with a well made sleeve can be made to you exact dimensions (within the scope of your lathe and abilities). You can use very high quality steel to make it and, if you have the practice and experience down pat and the tooling to support it, you can make a very hard (Rc 45-50 can be very nice) surface for you application. You can also mandrel mount your sleeve for such operations as adding a snap-ring groove (which can be tricky to add to a shoulder screw) or stand-off shoulder (usually accomplished with custom washers when using a shoulder screw).
Probably the biggest argument for making a sleeve is that it is expensive to purchase a small quantity of shoulder screws. As I usually get them in boxes of 50 or 100 (depending on size), that is less a "driver" from my side of the fence, but that does not change the facts for a person needing only 1 or 2. As I said, the answer is, "it depends..."
Since both will provide a pivot for whatever is supported with limited or extended thrust travel, lets do the break down. Sleeved: Hardware screws available! Many thread, pitch, length sizes in various metals. Multiple tooling heads for installation (slot, Phillips, hex key) Cheap. Versatility.....greater. Sleeve can be used as a roller. Combination of materials. A stainless screw with brass, Delrin, wood sleeve. Time to make up...shorter, might need a hacksaw & file. May not need a lathe, tubing available. Shoulder: Expensive in limited size availability. More expensive to custom make (will need die set, hex stock). Time to make.....a few more lathe opps./ passes, if you lathe your own threads. Versatility.....lesser. If you need a socket head where your combination wrench won't go without removing 6 other parts from your project................Your vote is? ;D Dave.
Look up "shoulder screw" in http://www.mcmaster.com for pictures of those.
A bolt with a sleeve is...a bolt going through a close-fitting tube that's short enough so some threads protrude.
A bolt with a sleeve is...a bolt going through a close-fitting tube that's short enough so some threads protrude.
L
Lew_Merrick_PE
Guest
Mainer said:
The bolt used for a sleeved bolt approach may be threaded full length or only partially threaded. If partially threaded, it may be standard (loose) fit shear section or a self-burnishing (interference fit) shear section, or anywhere in between. It can have the drive type of your choice.
The sleeve may be drilled/bored/reamed or threaded. The sleeve may be in sections to provide different features for action and retention. Etc.
In short, it can be a lot more than merely a bolt going through a close-fitting tube.
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