Setting up Shop Questions - from an NZ learner

[bazmak]

From the photos it looks as though the 12mm plts are larger than the tube
Hence I said run a fillet.If they are flush then grind a small V on plts
and tube for penetration.The welds are not taking any load just holding the plts in place

 

[joco-nz]

From the photos it looks as though the 12mm plts are larger than the tube
Hence I said run a fillet.If they are flush then grind a small V on plts
and tube for penetration.The welds are not taking any load just holding the plts in place

Ok. Thanks.

 

[joco-nz]

These feet are not going anywhere. :thumbup:
Nice solid welds all the way around.


Next part of project is making the spreaders for the feet. So made the head of the bolts nice and flat, cut some 6mm flat stock into squares ready to be attached to the bolts. But that will need to be another nights project.

 

[joco-nz]

Got the feet installed and levelled. Feels really solid and flat. Next is the support members for the lathe itself.

 

[bazmak]

would be better with the plates round and the hx hd stitched to the plts

 

[joco-nz]

would be better with the plates round and the hx hd stitched to the plts

Bolt is plug welded to the plates which I acknowledge that is not the strongest but for the loads in play should be sufficient. And nothing stopping some stich welds later if need be. I might still turn the feet down in the lathe. But its really just cosmetic and l'm more interested in getting a functional stand available at this point.

Cheers,
J.

 

[bazmak]

Good idea to plug weld from underside,leaves the hx hd clear for a spanner.As long as they
are tied together the weld is not important.As you say its only cosmetic,if the foot revolves
then they may be at odd angles.Might look odd as your doing a good job.Might find a piece of 2mm rubber under each plt
helps reduce any vibration.When I bought a similar lathe years ago I mounted on a sheetmetal stand
and had to install waffle pads and lead sheet to dampen the vibrations

 

[joco-nz]

A bit more progress today. Managed to get some gussets on to the back of the frame. These triangles are 130mm on the sides and 6mm steel. So they should give some good lateral support.


I then figured out how to turn the feet to have circular spreaders. I have had to redo a number of the spot welds as they failed under angular force at various points. The whole problem stems from [a] not having a large enough hole (redone ones have a 10mm hole) and not flushing the air out of the hole with argoshield before starting the weld. The failed welds tended to be a bit porous at the bottom of the plug.


Cheers,
J.

 

[joco-nz]

I needed to just take a blade width off the end of some 30x30mm SHS today and wanted to have just enough for the blade to bit into and keep it still cutting into the steel and not sliding off the side. But didn't want to take off anymore than needed.

So with some finessing I managed to get a pretty thin slice going here.

 

[joco-nz]

The lathe stand in all its primed glory.

 

[Roboguy]

Looking fantastic James!

You'll be making swarf in no time!

Cheers,
James Fitzsimons

 

[bruedney]

Looking fantastic James!

You'll be making swarf in no time!

Cheers,
James Fitzsimons

He's been doing that from the floor *club*

Bruce

 

[joco-nz]

It was said "let there be paint" and behold there was paint ...

 

[joco-nz]

He's been doing that from the floor *club*

Bruce

For the record it IS bolted to the pallet, I checked it pretty carefully to make sure it wasn't going anywhere and I have limited myself to very small items and nothing over 600rpm.

One discovery - using the power feed rocks. A few passes under manual feeding gets a bit old rather fast when you have a lot of metal to get rid of. Of course nothing beats the hands when you need to carefully approach a shoulder.

My Diamond tool holder is AWESOME. I am looking forward to trying to grind a threading tool. Just cose I want to try. :thumbup:

 

[bazmak]

Glad to see you have been bitten by the bug.I think we are a dying breed
I remember when I left school,i really looked forward to going to work
Lets see some action,dont forget a piece of thin solid rubber under each foot helps. Regards barry

 

[joco-nz]

...dont forget a piece of thin solid rubber under each foot helps.

Very good point - need to find some solid rubber - 2-3mm thick yes?

 

[joco-nz]

Got all the feet turned now off to pararubber in the weekend to get some thin solid rubber to act as a vibration buffer.

Now I HAVE to make space. I foresee a big clean and a full trailer of crap to dump this weekend.

 

[joco-nz]

Well its done with and with a huge amount of help from Bruce :thumbup: I have the AL320G installed on the stand.

I have 3mm thick solid rubber pads under the feet to isolate vibrations and everything has been levelled to a reasonable degree. At some point I will run Rollie's Dad's method to see how good things are and adjust accordingly.
http://neme-s.org/Rollie's_Dad's_Method.pdf

I have done some test cuts on some scrap round stock. The HSS in my Diamond holder is cutting like a hot knife through butter. Lovely curled swarf coming off with a nice clean finish. 8)

Set my self a target of 12mm diameter with a starting size of 12.60mm. So set my cut by the dial to 0.6mm (so on the chinese lathes that setting the dial to a 0.3 mm as its all in radius not diameter -- I'm learning!) and managed to get to 12.01 as read off the digital callipers. I'll take that as a win!
woohoo1

 

[rodw]

Great to see its up and running at last!
I've played with some ground rod. I think you will find the tailstock alignment is spot on, mine was. There is zero runout on the spindle taper but whenever you add a chuck of any kind you add runout.

Takes me back to my pre-DRO days. I found if i did not actually work it out on a piece of paper and convert it to clicks on the dials, I would invariably stuff up.. Now my DRO is permanently set to diameter mode so it displays the diameter, same as the calipers do.

Oops, better not encourage you to spend any more!

 

[joco-nz]

Ahh a DRO. One of my future dreams. However as an interim and cheaper option I am thinkin of getting a couple of DTIs with a 30 to 50mm reach and 0.01mm readings. Using them on some custom mounts should allow for good accuracy while not having to worry about backlash considerations. Heck I might even be able to forgo the DRO. Of course once I get the Mill running I think DRO and/or CNC of it will be a must.

Make sense?