Redwing #1009

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Hi All

I have done some work since my last post. It was a tedious exercise to line up the casting onto the angle plate correctly for it to be fitted in the lathe, bit I think I got it about right.

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Then I have setup my newly acquired boring head and boring bar and started the first cuts. I realized I have to cut away at least .2300 which is a lot of work. I would have preferred using a drill to remove most of the access, but in the absence of that the boring bar will have to do. Initially there was a lot of noise coming from the cutter, but once I've cleared all roughness it went smooth.

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At this stage I have about .0300 to bore out. The plan requires 1.247 final size and then to be honed to 1.500 exactly.

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VERY interesting, I never thought of using a boring-head in that manner. It sure helps to use carbide cutters for the first few thousands, the "crust" can seem like hardened steel sometimes. Looking good.
 
VERY interesting, I never thought of using a boring-head in that manner. It sure helps to use carbide cutters for the first few thousands, the "crust" can seem like hardened steel sometimes. Looking good.

Thanks Phillip
 
Last night was very exiting indeed. I made the last cuts with the boring bar, having inserted a new carbide tip just to make sure I get good results towards the final cut. The plan calls for 1.247. I got it right on the button! Just to make sure there are no tapers I've tested it with a mandrill I've made before I bolted the frame to the lathe. The mandrill is also machined to 1.247 exactly. I passed through perfectly. It is critical to get this portion of the frame 100% correct:)

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While the frame is bolted in this position I've setup the face mill to to face the cylinder. This operation is also going very well and will hopefully complete it tonight.

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Hi Guys

I have been absent for a while mainly because of other commitments and the down time of my internet, but here we go....
 
I faced the block and made a carbide cutter to cut the shamfer as suggested by the plans

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The next step was to setup the casting back on the mill aligning it with a round bar cut to the inside of the bore

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Then I prepared the bearing blocks to the suggested size and parted them with my metal band saw. Take into account I have already setup the main casting right next to it. Luckily my mill had space to accommodate the setup

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I then completed facing the casting to accommodate the bearing caps...carefully measure them against the requirements, then super glued them

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I use a completely different method than other builders on drilling and threading by doing them one at a time, face mill. drill required depth of the bearing caps. then to drill tread size and thread it all in one position, it might seem peculiar, but its a skill I've mastered building #1, #5 and #6 and it works beautifully

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Having set the mill back to 90deg from 25deg I started facing all sides of the bearings bearing in mind the spacing required in between. This took some heavy calculations. Guys bear in mind most of my tools are in metric and I have to convert all calculations to inches all the time and vice versa. With my metric feeler gauge I got it right on the button. Are there any of you using the HP 41 series?I have two of them and ever since I thought I could do some maths they were always with me. Also note the little mirror method. I was not very impressed with the newly acquired carbide 20mm end mill showing small ships of wear bearing in mind I've paid about $100 for it. I will return it to the supplier. I have used it at the correct speed only shaving of about .02mm at a time. (.0787)

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The last step working on the casting in this position was to mill, drill tap the oiller kit to the casting. I made a special bar first accommodating the required drill size, then drilled it out to fit the 1/4 x 40 tap, all in one position. I am very happy with the work so far;)

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The next step is to unmount the casting from this position and back to the angle plate for the further maching....
 
Hi All

I could not do as much as I've planned for the week, but I managed to do the setup and measuring, I've drilled first the pilot hole and then drilled and bored to -.0001, then in the absence of the correct reamer I've used my old hand reamer and it turned out great. Still clamped in this position I measured out the bosses for the gear and rod.

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Hi All

There is some progress since my last post. I had to revert back to my center bar finding the center to arrive at 1.19 required for facing the plug boss. I got that on right on the nose. Then I've drilled, milled the required thread all in the same position. At that stage I have also completed the artificial bolts on the sides of the plugs. It came out nice.

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