raym/rupinow vert hit & miss

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Brian Rupnow

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Looking very good Ray. It is always nice to see one of my designs being built. I did email you instructions on how to make the oval hole in the main fuel rail. Not sure that you received them. The Chuck Fellows carburetor works very well on throttled engines, but is not intended for use on a hit and miss engine. I will follow your build with great interest.---Brian
 

el gringo

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Looking very good Ray. It is always nice to see one of my designs being built. I did email you instructions on how to make the oval hole in the main fuel rail. Not sure that you received them. The Chuck Fellows carburetor works very well on throttled engines, but is not intended for use on a hit and miss engine. I will follow your build with great interest.---Brian
My humor is not appreciated.... I didn't look around too long for an oval drill bit.;););)
Raym
 

Brian Rupnow

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Well Ray, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. Your hit and miss engine with the Chuck Fellows carb on it works great. Nice looking engine.---Brian
 

el gringo

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conrod
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I turned the crank journal .004 under so I had to size it the hard way.
I used to blame my old Southbend 9 for mistakes until I realized I'm ten yrs older than the lathe.
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I extend the center pilot hole thru the cross hole for additional lube access

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tomatoes I ripped off my neighbors patch
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I GUESS NOW ITS ONTO THE 'JUG'
 

Brian Rupnow

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Ray--nice con-rod. I didn't turn the one on my engine, because it cleared the bottom of the cylinder okay without being turned. Since it was going to be inside the engine where nobody but me would ever see it, I just left it "full profile".---Brian
 

el gringo

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temporary fitup
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crankshaft end play controlled by inner race of ball brg. measured <.001 ....
BTW the conrod material is 7075 t-6 which should wear well in lieu of a proper big end brg.
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The jug seems to fit, now to take off and hone to size...looks like a lot of tool marks and cleanup to do on the crankcase... BTW I use 1/32 Teflon sheet for gasket material.
Onto making piston and rings.
Brian, how thick are the purchased rings?
Ray M
 

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Brian Rupnow

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Ray--the purchased rings are .094" thick. When I cut the ring grooves in the piston by plunge cutting with my .094" parting off blade, the rings were too tight a fit in the grooves. I ended up putting some 600 grit aluminum oxide paste on a piece of window glass and lapping both sides of the rings so they would fit into the ring grooves freely.
 

el gringo

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yes, that is an important fit. I,ve heard there is more leakage there than at the gaps.
I was not asking about the width but the radial thickness.
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I just finished the final honing of the cyl. Nasty work!

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boring the cyl, all operations done in the 4-jaw except the internal chamfer

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I lost count of the fins:eek:
Ray M
 

el gringo

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hi Brian,
In making rings I use Trimbles formula for radial thickness,not more than 1/25 of cyl dia.
I am curious as to that dimension in the store bought rings. I thought I heard you say you had a spare that could be measured.
Ray M
 

Brian Rupnow

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Ray--I didn't measure what you are asking for on the rings, and I don't have a spare one to measure.--Wish I had. The people I bought the rings from gave me the width and depth of slot required, and that's what I put on the piston drawing.---Brian
 
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