QCTP for Myford lathe

[goldstar31]

Stepping in- Trefolex is probably one of those lard oil/ tallow mixtures. I use plain lard oil on my Myford Super 7 B and whilst the wasps enjoy it hot and little boys queue up thinking that a new burger outlet has opened in the old baronial hall, it is to be commended- for non industrial uses.

Lard oil- chips- you know the sort of thing

Norman

 

[BaronJ]

Hi dear Baron, no probs for the the different design. I am very curious about Trefolex because never heard before. What about the usage?

Hi Moshe,
I don't even know if it exists any more ! The 1Lb tin that I have is more than 30+ years old and is still half full, or half empty, depending on your point of view.
Its a greasy green stuff and has a very odd sulphurous smell. It sticks to your skin and is the very devil to wash off, though a drop of petrol shifts it.
I just apply it with a tooth brush as required. It doesn't take much. It turns into a runny liquid when it gets hot. I also have another tin of cutting compound, I can't remember the name at the moment, :wall: that I bought about 20 years ago because I couldn't find the Trefolex.

 

[BaronJ]

Stepping in- Trefolex is probably one of those lard oil/ tallow mixtures. I use plain lard oil on my Myford Super 7 B and whilst the wasps enjoy it hot and little boys queue up thinking that a new burger outlet has opened in the old baronial hall, it is to be commended- for non industrial uses.

Lard oil- chips- you know the sort of thing

Norman

Yes you are not far off the mark ! I will have to have a look at the list of ingredients, that is if there are any on the tin. My tin is a little bit old, so they may not have had to list them in those days.

 

[gus]

The dove-tail looks good. Ideal to go for push fit for now and later fine emory sand to get the slide fit you want.
Good reason why hard aluminium just won't do and the dovetail fits will go very sloppy.
Have you decided on the colour and shape of handle bar knobs?

Just learned a good lesson. Aluminium Worm Gear is for trials only.:wall:Will have to go brass.:rant: No worry.I bought some cut brass disc from TokyuHands.

 

[gus]

Hi Moshe,
Its "Trefolex" a cutting compound. I don't have any coolant or cutting oil set up yet, so I use this as an aid to smooth cutting. Its surprising how much difference it makes particularly on a light weight mill like mine. I also use it on the lathe.

I hope you will forgive my error when marking out the main tool block for the QCTP.
As my wife keeps pointing out, me and numbers don't go well together. I marked the block with pops where the holes should be, then when I came to drill the 10mm holes, realised that being 3mm short on one side put three of the holes in the wrong place. So being lazy I opted not to drill the three I marked on the photo.

Hi Todd,

Not rubbing in. ''To err is human'' . Made my fair share of errs while marking and machining/drilling/tapping. One M2.5 hole became M3.Used the wrong tapping drill. No worry.Made both holes M3 w/o kicking myself.

 

[BaronJ]

The dove-tail looks good. Ideal to go for push fit for now and later fine emory sand to get the slide fit you want.
Good reason why hard aluminium just won't do and the dovetail fits will go very sloppy.
Have you decided on the colour and shape of handle bar knobs?

Just learned a good lesson. Aluminium Worm Gear is for trials only.:wall:Will have to go brass.:rant: No worry.I bought some cut brass disc from TokyuHands.

Hi Gus,

I've got further on and got the hole for the retaining bolt done and threaded.
Just discovered that I've drilled the 10 mm hole on the wrong edge. :wall::wall: Actually I machined the recess in the wrong side so I've another hole to drill. I've also got three blocks cut to make the tool holders with. Now all I have to do is make them properly and get them to fit when I have made them.

So are you going to have another go at the worm gear ?

 

[BaronJ]

Just a question Baron. In this picture "qctp-myford-lathe-cutting_slot-1.jpg" something like grease or something similar appears stitched on the mill. What about? Thanks

Hi Moshe,
Just so you can see what I use for cutting compounds.
The "Trefolex" is a green colour. The "Temaxol" is a yellow sulphurous compound, and the "RTD" from "Rocol" is a smelly brown liquid. Both tins are about half full and the "RTD" was a sample bottle from the rep of a tool supplier.

 

[Charles Lamont]

Rocol RTD is so-called because it is for reaming, tapping and drilling. Trefolex is intended for similar purposes, but I prefer RTD as I find it less messy and the smell less unpleasant. It can be had as a liquid or a paste, I have both but find the liquid more useful.

Neither is intended as a lubricant for turning or milling operations, for which a soluble oil ("suds") or neat cutting oil are more suitable. I have no pump (yet), but cutting oil can be applied by brush or washing-up-liquid-bottle-with-an-extended-spout. I use a general purpose neat cutting oil, usually diluted 50/50 with kerosene.

Having said that, I am finding RTD works well on some soft and sticky aluminium castings, as a film stays put.

 

[necchiom]

Hi Baron. Did you buy this stuff when I wore shorts? Actually I am 51...!
So finally Trefolex is intended mainly for treading, reaming, etc, isn't it?

 

[Swifty]

I'm another one that uses rocol for tapping and reaming, it's much easier to clean up than trefolex, which I used occasionally many years ago.

Paul.

 

[BaronJ]

Rocol RTD is so-called because it is for reaming, tapping and drilling. Trefolex is intended for similar purposes, but I prefer RTD as I find it less messy and the smell less unpleasant. It can be had as a liquid or a paste, I have both but find the liquid more useful.

Neither is intended as a lubricant for turning or milling operations, for which a soluble oil ("suds") or neat cutting oil are more suitable. I have no pump (yet), but cutting oil can be applied by brush or washing-up-liquid-bottle-with-an-extended-spout. I use a general purpose neat cutting oil, usually diluted 50/50 with kerosene.

Having said that, I am finding RTD works well on some soft and sticky aluminium castings, as a film stays put.

Hi Charles,
Ah, so that is what RTD stands for ! I learn something every day.
I was advised not to use one of them, I can't remember which, on aluminium for some reason... Anyway a wipe with diesel works on alloy. I have a gallon plastic bottle full of cutting oil somewhere kicking about, I'd forgotten about it till you mentioned it. I'll have to have a hunt round in the garage.

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Baron. Did you buy this stuff when I wore shorts? Actually I am 51...!
So finally Trefolex is intended mainly for threading, reaming, etc, isn't it?

Hi Moshe,
My wife doesn't call me a "Grumpy Old Git" for nothing.
Actually I've 16 years on you, so probably Yes !!!

Re Trefolex et al. Yes they are but tend to get pressed into use for other cutting jobs. For instance it makes sawing by hand with a hacksaw easier.

I've started on one of the tool holders now. This will be the test of how good or bad my machining skill is when I start cutting the dovetail to fit. I'm leaving the slitting until after I've made the tool holder.

 

[necchiom]

Please Baron, let me know what about the first real test!
From my side, I finally decided the control panel layout for the inverter which will drive my Myford new three phase electric motor. Here is the draft!

 

[BaronJ]

Please Baron, let me know what about the first real test!
From my side, I finally decided the control panel layout for the inverter which will drive my Myford new three phase electric motor. Here is the draft!

Hi Moshe,
Nice drawing. Looks very good.
I assume that the red circle at the top is an indicator light.
I know there is a stop button there but would it be prudent to put a large mushroom type stop button there so it is easy to hit it in an emergency.

The other thing that I have on mine is a "No Volt" drop out relay. If you have a power failure it ensures that the machine cannot start up on its own should power come back on. Particularly if you are like me in a workshop where there is no natural light. If the power goes off, like it has done for the past few days, you are suddenly left in the dark.

 

[necchiom]

Here I am Baron! The top red circle is the "Mushroom"... Because a power supply light is strongly necessary, today I change the original layout and some components: instead of the green and red (Start, Stop) buttons, I will adopt the one in the picture. It has also a LED as a power indicator.
I planned the same strategy of you in terms of drop out relay for Run/Stop commands.
The worst: I am spending a lot of money in expensive EATON buttons/switch!

 

[BaronJ]

Here I am Baron! The top red circle is the "Mushroom"... Because a power supply light is strongly necessary, today I change the original layout and some components: instead of the green and red (Start, Stop) buttons, I will adopt the one in the picture. It has also a LED as a power indicator.
I planned the same strategy of you in terms of drop out relay for Run/Stop commands.
The worst: I am spending a lot of money in expensive EATON buttons/switch!

Hi Moshe,
That is a very nice looking button switch. Having the indicator light in the switch saves a lot of space.

I wish you were in the UK, I have dozens of the push button units. No red ones but do have amber and green lenses. All the lamp holders that fit into them have already been disposed of.

I got some of the tool holder blocks faced and squared up only to find that they are too long to fit into my mill vice. I'm going to have to make a clamping fixture to support them on the mill table. I would like to be able to machine all three dovetails at one go.

 

[Wizard69]

Here I am Baron! The top red circle is the "Mushroom"... Because a power supply light is strongly necessary, today I change the original layout and some components: instead of the green and red (Start, Stop) buttons, I will adopt the one in the picture. It has also a LED as a power indicator.
I planned the same strategy of you in terms of drop out relay for Run/Stop commands.
The worst: I am spending a lot of money in expensive EATON buttons/switch!

Eaton has always made a good switch so at least your money is going to good product. However if money is an issue in a home built machine I recommend putting the good money into a solid E-Stop button first as you want to know that your safeties are solid. You can always get by with cheaper stuff for the other switches and if required up grade later.


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines

 

[necchiom]

Wise words Wizard69! Infact I prefer "invest" money in professional Eaton components than other Far Eastern stuff...

 

[Charles Lamont]

I am also working on the design of a control box for my Myford. One difference I am proposing for mine is a jog button rather than a switch. This will not have a latching relay, so the motor will only run while the button is pressed. The VFD needs a run signal as well, so it will have double pole contacts.

 

[necchiom]

Hi Charles, originally I though the same. But later on I realize JOG would be useful for precise threading and that would not be easy pushing a button. Do you have a different idea/usage in mind?