QCTP for Myford lathe

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It looks as if this is becoming a rather emotive subject.
From a personal point of view and as a user of Myford Lathes for over thirty years.The ML7 like any machine has its short comings yes the head stock bearings are no longer replaceable but there is a conversion kit to replace the white metal bearing agreed at a price.
When I worked in industry a quick change tool post was not a luxury fitting as time is money but in the home shop its not so important .
I now use either the original four way tool post and have made two three way post along the lines of the Lammas design and find they meet my needs
I cannot comment on the imported tool posts but believe the old adage that the price is soon forgotten when buying a quality tool holds true
Good luck with what ever you decide to buy or build
As to Myfords are they the best well no I don't think so by any means .They are a good bit of kit and very versatile but they priced themselves out of the market in my humble opinion and now that a lot of home shops also have a mill some of the advantages of the versatility became redundant
cheers
 
Nicholas, there have been a few posts from members that still live in the dark ages and reminisce about the good old days, they are always right and everyone else is wrong. Times have changed a lot, you asked for advice about wanting a QCTP, lots of people seem to have used one on a myford with no adverse affects. It will certainly be better for setting tools up, and if you choose the correct design to either make or buy, there should be no need to machine material off existing components. Go for it!!!:)

Paul.
 
I like my QCTP a lot, I had one of the 4-way rotating index TP's before and it was good, but everytime I needed to change a tool getting it on centre was a faff, and everytime I wanted to use a never before centred tool it was a shim searching fiddly faff. In all honesty I'd go out of my way to avoid changing the tooling, using a tool that was loaded that would do the job - just, rather than load up the correct tool

Now I change tool without a thought, its brilliant. First time a tool is used centering is a breeze, and when changing they go straight back on to centre (that'll be the QC part of QCTP :cool: )

My time is the 'shop is limited and precious, I like to spend as much of it making swarf as possible and the QCTP gives more swarf time and less faff time.

I'd rate my RDG QCTP as my best accesory for the ML10 (so far hee hee)
 
I started with a used ML7 but have had a Super 7 for the last (exactly) 40 years. I have a Myford 4-tool turret but it has never stayed on the lathe for long. I find the thing a complete pain. Something over 10 years ago I designed and made my own QCTP, and though I say it myself, it is a vast improvement. You can see it here: http://www.charleslamont.me.uk

Charles, that is one nice tool post! Very innovative, is it all of your own design or did you incorporate elements from other tool posts. The nice thing about this tool post is that it highlights that you don't have to follow the AXA designs of the big manufactures to get a very functional tool post.
 
Thanks all for the helpful advice, some very good points have been made :)
The only reason I thought of a QCTP was for the parting blade (and the easy height adjustment too). I wasn't too keen on a rear parting tool holder as I have heard they get in the way on Super 7 lathes which have one T-slot more that the ML7 cross slide.
I had thought about making a QCTP but it is slightly too advanced for me at the moment unless I get a really good set of plans for one.
For now, a simple 4 way tool post might be the best option for me, it won't take very long to make and is still 100x better than the silly clamp that comes on the ML7 lathes (in my opinion).
Thanks again for all the good advice, if there is any more info I should know before making a decision please tell me (there is no rush) :)

Hi Nicholas,
Gus is very much a beginner in turning and milling. Bought some very expensive QCTP for the two Leblonde Precision Lathes back in 1982.Was very useful and handy.
After retiring in 2004,started building model steam engiines.Recalled how handy those QCTP were but could not afford to buy them.

Machining the dovetails really put me off. Six months later I gathered enough courage to make my own DIY QCTP.Harold Hall's article was very useful and self-explanatory and guided Gus thru making the QCTP.
Foto shows my second QCTP.Material cost is about US$10 for a length of square bar and flat bar.Bought the dove tail cutters from ArcEuroTrade.com.uk.
Made my own turret tool post too but found it hard to shim cutters to dead centre height.Turret now retired and about to be recycled.

If you ever get started building your own DIY QCTP,the HMEM Forum members will help with good advice. Tin Falcon's QCTP Print is a very good one to DIY.

IMG_1143.jpg
 
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Charles, that is one nice tool post! Very innovative, is it all of your own design or did you incorporate elements from other tool posts. The nice thing about this tool post is that it highlights that you don't have to follow the AXA designs of the big manufactures to get a very functional tool post.

Thanks. I designed it without reference to other designs, but must have been influenced by things I had seen. I don't claim any originality, but I am not sure anyone had previously made the extended toolholder, which is now available for some commercial products.
 
I found this design, has anybody else made one of these or would recommend it?
http://www.swarfer.co.za/lathe/toolpost.php

I made a few similar to his design. They work very well and cost almost nothing to make, and you can customize them to hold multiple toolbits. Add a quick release lever to facilitate 'quick changing' your holders. They may actually be more rigid than a typical QCTP due to the lack of overhang for the holder.

KRF sells a commercial version: http://www.krfcompany.com/
 
Hi Nicholas,
Gus is very much a beginner in turning and milling. Bought some very expensive QCTP for the two Leblonde Precision Lathes back in 1982.Was very useful and handy.
After retiring in 2004,started building model steam engiines.Recalled how handy those QCTP were but could not afford to buy them.

Machining the dovetails really put me off. Six months later I gathered enough courage to make my own DIY QCTP.Harold Hall's article was very useful and self-explanatory and guided Gus thru making the QCTP.
Foto shows my second QCTP.Material cost is about US$10 for a length of square bar and flat bar.Bought the dove tail cutters from ArcEuroTrade.com.uk.
Made my own turret tool post too but found it hard to shim cutters to dead centre height.Turret now retired and about to be recycled.

If you ever get started building your own DIY QCTP,the HMEM Forum members will help with good advice. Tin Falcon's QCTP Print is a very good one to DIY.


That's a very nice toolpost Gus.
Is the tool holder clamped against the tool post? could you provide a photo of the tool post with out the tool holder on it?
Thank you very much :)
 
Hi Nicholas,
Requested fotos attached. The tool holder clamping is thru the cam operated piston activated by the top lever.

Male and female dovetails are not difficult to do as feared/imagined. Do avoid taking very light cuts as the cutter only rubs and cutting is very minimal. A medium hand feed will do but play by ear and ample coolant feed required.I use Tapmatic Oil.

I made 6 tool holders and more planned. The QCTP is slightly smaller than plan dimensions because of using on-hand material. Used 1 1/2" square bar instead of 2" bar. Feel free to choose size to suit Myford. My balcony machineshop
has no room/floor load capacity to take bigger lathes/mills or any more equipment.
Was lucky to be able to squeeze in a vertical bandsaw which is a great help."70 young" no longer able to manual hacksaw. Bought a Makita and DIY mount in plywood housing.With this bandsaw, I got ambitious building engines out
of bar stocks.

IMG_2440.jpg


IMG_2441.jpg
 
Hi Nicholas,
Fotos attached. Popcorn Engine and Rotary Table cutting brass balls.
I have no drawings for the RT which was made ----play by ear basis. The worm and wheel were bought locally. On Youtube,you could look up for simple worm-wheel cutting using lathe and a spiral tap. Good Luck.

IMG_0424.jpg


IMG_0442.jpg
 
Good morning Nicolas. Because times ago I bought the RDG tools QCTP for my Super 7, but I guess the original Myford one is the same, my suggestion is to save your money and look around for a different design. I fond this very weak on stiffness: especially on parting; so, finally, I design and manufacture what is on the attached picture which is based on a simple but effective clamping system. I can provide you drawing... in mm obviously! Mose'

DSCN2279.jpg


Assembly1.jpg
 
Good morning Nicolas. Because times ago I bought the RDG tools QCTP for my Super 7, but I guess the original Myford one is the same, my suggestion is to save your money and look around for a different design. I fond this very weak on stiffness: especially on parting; so, finally, I design and manufacture what is on the attached picture which is based on a simple but effective clamping system. I can provide you drawing... in mm obviously! Mose'

Hi Mose,

I like the look and simplicity of your QCTP. A copy of your drawing would be apreciated.

Re the original Myford QCTP, I agree with your comments. At least with your design the toolholder is positively clamped ensuring acurate repeatablity.
 
Here they are! Inside of the compressed file you will find 2D drawing (no tolerances are indicated on them, sorry!) and some photos I've got during manufacturing processes. Pictures could be useful for setting up your best manufacturing strategy. Good luck! Mose'

View attachment MyfordQCTP.zip
 
Hi Mose,

Thank you very much for your kind response with the drawings. They are great and explain things very well. I note that you seem to have used aluminium for the main block. I have a chunk of BMS that is almost the right size. I do have a couple of questions though.

Was the small recess at the bottom of the dovetail needed or was it the result of carving out the meat before cutting the dovetail ? Also why the 3mm holes behind the dovetail ?

Before anybody asks, yes I'm going to make one of these and yes I will take pictures.
 
Hi Baron. First of all the main block and the tool holders are made on steel: I dissuade you to use aluminum! It is too soft.

Because the locking system is based on dovetail slightly deformation, the main purpose of the recess is to limit the contact surfaces just close to the dovetail 60deg angle. Last question: originally I though to put a small hard metal plaque in here. This is the reason of the 3mm threaded holes.
Hope my poor English is clear enough...
Cheers, Mose.
 
Hi Baron. First of all the main block and the tool holders are made on steel: I dissuade you to use aluminum! It is too soft.

Because the locking system is based on dovetail slightly deformation, the main purpose of the recess is to limit the contact surfaces just close to the dovetail 60deg angle. Last question: originally I though to put a small hard metal plaque in here. This is the reason of the 3mm threaded holes.
Hope my poor English is clear enough...
Cheers, Mose.

Hi Mose,

Your English is just fine ! I thought that you had used aluminium because of the superb surface finish in your pictures. I wish I could get that fine mirror finish on my work. My mini mill just isn't ridgid enough.

Fine on the contact surfaces close to the dovetail. Actually having looked more carefully at your drawings I can see where you have dimensioned it.

I will ignore those 3mm holes then.

OT: I have spent a little time vacationing in Italy in the past few years and really enjoy the scenery and the friendly people that I have met. Musn't forget the wines, most excellent.

Thank you for answering my questions.

Seasons Greetings. Have a good Christmas.
 
"Buon Natale" (Merry Christmas) also to you! Mose'
 

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