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Kermit

Guest
Hello again.

This was going to be about my struggles to get some sheet steel cut up into 33 pcs.
Carried on from http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5259.0

But it has turned out to be about me getting my equipment working. Let's just say I used up my saws motor much quicker than I should have been able to. It was a chinese made motor marked 3/4 HP. I don't think so! Third sudden stop with my third use. Not the starting cap this time, just the whole motor. Probably a burned up stator or rotor winding. Having put enough parts and "shipping and handling" charges into this saw. I decided to getz mahself an American motor(from Mexico ;D)

scrap_haul_05.jpg

off with the old motor

scrap_haul_04.jpg

New motor aquired

scrap_haul_06.jpg

Punch a hole in new motor wiring grommet

scrap_haul_07.jpg

put wire through grommet and get it dressed up.

scrap_haul_08.jpg

Ready for mating!

scrap_haul_09.jpg

2nd try at connection. It never rotates the right direction the first time silly.

scrap_haul_10.jpg

ready to resume the $109 dollar cut.

scrap_haul_12.jpg

Utility powered. Yeah!

scrap_haul_11.jpg

What you get for one whole days work and hard earned money.



So begins my next adventure,
Kermit
 
And so the quest for the elusive electrical nirvana continues ..... :big:


BC1
Jim
 
Say Kermit

scrap_haul_05.jpg

off with the old motor

I wouldn't be working without any boots...sharp corners are a little hard on the toes. Just one of my th_rulze.

Regards

Philly
 
PhillyVa said:
Say Kermit
I wouldn't be working without any boots...sharp corners are a little hard on the toes. Just one of my th_rulze.

Regards

Philly

Neither would I. Soft white underbelly and all that...

Those toes belong to my oldest son. Helpful when I can get him to come over(usually have to bribe him with supper!) ;D






Nothing much to see yet. A few days of sawing should get me to a place where I can START! :big:
 
Kermit,
I did the exact same thing to my 4x6 saw as well. What I found was the balance was off after so I bolted 2 scuba lead weights to the top handle and now the downfeed actually works throughout the range.

Good write up,
Sean
 
made another 5 cuts. Total of six plates so far. About 60 minutes on the saw.

The last one took twice as long as all the rest. Worn blade? I took a look and every eight to ten teeth you find one missing. Judging by the shape the motor was in two minutes after starting, I'm placing my bets on the chinese blade.

Cheep buyers beware. That's what ya get.

So far I am impressed with the overall mechanism.

Seanol said:
Kermit,
...I found was the balance was off after so I bolted 2 scuba lead weights to the top handle and now the downfeed actually works throughout the range.

This unit has a bar with length adj. attached to a spring which tensions the upper jaw of the saw. It functions just like a counter weight. I've got a picture of it somewhere here. I'll take a minute with photobucket here in a few. Thanks for adding Seanol. Really, it seems like it will be a wonderful little saw with a good motor and some good quality steel teeth. Perhaps I'll get around to widening the vise. (1/8" to small to hold the plates I'm cutting-wouldn't ya know ;) )

Kermit
 
Hi Kermit

Kermit said:
Worn blade? I took a look and every eight to ten teeth you find one missing.

Yes, it could be the blade, but even quality blades might do this:

I noticed from one of your earlier pictures that the tooth spacing on your blade appears to be larger than the plate is thick. This is not a problem for the long cut through the top (flat part) of the plate, but the moment it goes through this, and hits the vertical edges of the plate, the blade teeth will bite in deep and grab, and might get broken off. I've had similar issues - what I do is check end when the cut starts going just onto the vertical pieces of the plate, I manually hold up the the saw head slightly to make for a lighter cut through the last thin vertical parts - this helps a lot.

Regards, Arnold
 
The substitute for the counter weight is pictured here.

So I need to go shopping for blades. Any brand suggestions or warnings?


scrap_haul_13.jpg
 
Kermit,

It wourd appear that your cutting sheetmetal.

The pitch of the blade teeth needs to be finer than the thickness of the sheet stock, otherwise it will hook and break teeth.....check it out.. :)

Dave
 
steamer said:
The pitch of the blade teeth needs to be finer than the thickness of the sheet stock
Dave

Well. I wondered why the teeth looked so much bigger than the ones on my hack saw. But the config of the blade does seem to do well on long continuous stretches. I will need at least two blades. A fine tooth and a coarse tooth one.

I'll leave the post be for a few days until I get this problem behind me.

Thanks everyone,
Kermit
 
i have to buy 4 or 5 blades cause i seem to go thew them a lot i have found that the better blades (more $$$$$) work much better then the el cheapo's Ive been though 12 el cheapos (to two good ones). then i got the better blade and they last a bit longer
 
Stepping up to 18 tpi from the 14 tpi. Or what would it be in metric? ...5.5 teeth per centimeter? 1/2 tooth per mm?

WHO CARES ;D :D


I will have this one cutting for me by next week. Not the best in the box but it is a good brand. So after using it for awhile, I'll decide what or how much to grab. I do want a really coarse one for my occasional wood cutting needs. I also notice that really good blades are scarce in "my size" of machine.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000099459251

 
Buying bandsaw blades in bulk - usually in 100ft lengths - works out much cheaper than buying individual blades.

Joining them is not too difficult with silver (hard) solder in a clamp type jig with a small gap for the join, but unfortunately I am unable to post a picture while I am out here in Saudi.

Dave
The Emerald Isle
 
I'm only up so early this morning because we are getting the car packed for a 330 mile trip up to Abilene, for to see the grand babies.

:D

I won't be doing much metal cutting this weekend, but I think I'll enjoy it this time,
Kermit
 
Something that will make that fumbly blade installation much easier.

Still need both hands and about 12 fingers but taping the blade as shown then starting with the top and bottom, above and below the taped section, push it on all around and keep your top hand on the tension knob when it gets there.


bandsaw1.jpg

bandsaw2.jpg



This is where I had stopped.

bandsaw3.jpg


A total of 12 cuts approx 6 inches long, consumed a starting capacitor(chinese), a 3/4 hp motor(chinese), and a blade.

;D
Kermit
 
As long as the parts where replaced with good ones, it was probably worth it! :big:

Dave
 
Found some pics for ideas and design inspiration.

dynamo2.jpg


dynamo3.jpg


rotary.jpg


The smooth rounded curves everywhere say 'castings', but I'm not going to use any castings. Gonna have to come up with another way if I want that look.

Bird is the word,
Kermit
 
OOOOOOH Kermit, nice pictures!

I like that, what kind of generator is that anyway, it's got armature windings and I think a commutator, so DC?......It would have needed a field source too wouldn't it?

Dave
 
First 2 pictures look like DC, but the second oone has 3 brushes on the commutator so it looks like a 3 phase AC unit to me. The "General Electric" on the side might be a hint in that direction also.
 
steamer said:
OOOOOOH Kermit, nice pictures!

I like that, what kind of generator is that anyway, it's got armature windings and I think a commutator, so DC?......It would have needed a field source too wouldn't it?

Dave

The first two pics are left and right side of a Westinghouse 20Kwatt alternator. It used a separate DC exciting dynamo for the field coils. The G.E unit in pic 3 is also a 3 phase alternator, but it has a DC commutator on the shaft to divert a portion of the output back to the field magnets(self exciting).

 

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