maverick
Well-Known Member
Dave, I'm anxious to see the collet closer in action. My SB needs one, and i'm spoiled by having one at work.
Great thread on the rebuild.
Regards,
Mike
Overhaul of a 9" SB model "A"
- Thread starter steamer
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Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
Dave, I'm anxious to see the collet closer in action. My SB needs one, and i'm spoiled by having one at work.
Great thread on the rebuild.
Regards,
Mike
Thanks Maverick,
A lever collet closer isn't always the best to use....at least for some of the work I'll be doing with the old girl...as I'll be mounting a dividing head on her for some gear and wheel cutting......but for repeatative parts ....you can't beat it!....and yes I've been spoiled too with a Hardinge I got to use at work years ago.......
Dave
A lever collet closer isn't always the best to use....at least for some of the work I'll be doing with the old girl...as I'll be mounting a dividing head on her for some gear and wheel cutting......but for repeatative parts ....you can't beat it!....and yes I've been spoiled too with a Hardinge I got to use at work years ago.......
Dave
Hey Tom,
I just got a copy of "Lubricating your lathe" and low and behold, SB recommends painting circles around the oil cups with a contrasting paint for better visibility. ....guess it's easier to just paint the cup itself.
Dave
I just got a copy of "Lubricating your lathe" and low and behold, SB recommends painting circles around the oil cups with a contrasting paint for better visibility. ....guess it's easier to just paint the cup itself.
Dave
OK
Did a bit this morning. Got some of my collets sorted out and inventoried.
Got to do some scraping later today on the cross slide table and keep going with the gear box re-assembly....maybe some progress shots for tomorrow....
Dave
Did a bit this morning. Got some of my collets sorted out and inventoried.
Got to do some scraping later today on the cross slide table and keep going with the gear box re-assembly....maybe some progress shots for tomorrow....
Dave
ttrikalin said:
Hi Tom,
This lathe makes 5 that I own. The third that I've "torn into"
I hate to use the term "rebuilt" as to me that implies I've gone back and rescraped everything, and I have'nt.
The Reed was a clean up, paint and repair....that was a lot of work, but it wasn't real complicated.
The Waltham was far more involved because getting parts is near impossible. I've never even seen another one though I know who owns the rights to the company and he stated to me he has two more that are very worn out. The cross slide for that came from an Ames lathe that was trashed!...lots of work there. I originally wanted to use the Waltham for my small engine/clock stuff, but tooling it has been a nightmare. It will take W20 collets, and I have a metric set but Swiss collets are VERY expensive. Everything else will have to be made or adapted, and it doesn't have threading. I'll finish it, and put her to use, but in a limited way.
The SB kinda fell into my arms. With the availability of parts and tooling, rebuild kits, ect, I think it's a no brainer. It has the capacity I like, and it was well made....besides being free!.....excluding what I've put into it.
The SB takes priority for the moment though. Get her done!
Dave
Mosey
Well-Known Member
If my wife saw this, she'd be painting circles around everything in the house, faucets, toilet valves, brooms, the vacuum, the stove, the garbage can, etc., etc.steamer said:Hey Tom,
I just got a copy of "Lubricating your lathe" and low and behold, SB recommends painting circles around the oil cups with a contrasting paint for better visibility. ....guess it's easier to just paint the cup itself.
Dave
Started in tonight getting the top surface of the cross slide parallel to the bottom...wow! it is bowed in the middle by .005", but not along the whole length!...just the middle.
Did some semi serious ploughing of stock with the scraper and a file, but I'm pretty close some resemblence of flat, even if its not parallel yet.
I took some pictures and I'll post tomorrow
I'll work on it some more tonight.
Additionally I bought an AXA wedge type tool post set to match the one I have on my Logan. I have also picked out what I think will be the 3 Jaw chuck I'll use from New England Brass and Tool
Its a 5" Fuerda 3 jaw adjust true, plain back...I have a bunch of backing plates and 1 just has to fit....I'll check those.
Dave
Did some semi serious ploughing of stock with the scraper and a file, but I'm pretty close some resemblence of flat, even if its not parallel yet.
I took some pictures and I'll post tomorrow
I'll work on it some more tonight.
Additionally I bought an AXA wedge type tool post set to match the one I have on my Logan. I have also picked out what I think will be the 3 Jaw chuck I'll use from New England Brass and Tool
Its a 5" Fuerda 3 jaw adjust true, plain back...I have a bunch of backing plates and 1 just has to fit....I'll check those.
Dave
steamer said:
Dave, $120 each is way too much! Here in Switzerland most of them are about $42 (middle range), some are £52 (smaller and bigger ones) and the smalles they ARE expensive, 1.5mm and 1mm are about $95 and the very small 0.5mm is $148.
So I guess you just asked the wrong guy who tries to make lots of profit by selling swiss collets.
You may directly ask the manufacturer, which is Schaublin(http://www.schaublin.ch/e/), and I guess it will be cheaper than your source!
Cheers Florian
Hey Dave
I don't know if you can directly buy from the collets factory (which has been separated from the machine factory which is also still called Schaublin..)
But they are still in business!
Cheers Florian
btw, one thing I just realized: I was telling you the price for metric collets. I don't know if they have imperial collets and what the price of them would be...
I don't know if you can directly buy from the collets factory (which has been separated from the machine factory which is also still called Schaublin..)
But they are still in business!
Cheers Florian
btw, one thing I just realized: I was telling you the price for metric collets. I don't know if they have imperial collets and what the price of them would be...
Tin Falcon
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Here is a catalog of there collets lots of info a bit long as it is in three languages.
http://www.schaublin.ch/catalogues/Catalogue%20SSAD.pdf
lot of good collet info
tin
Thanks again Florian and Tin! I'll check into it.
I have a metric set in "whole" sizes that I got for a good price off the "bay". But lately the prices there...and availability...have just been nuts...the only place to buy new here that I know of is Hardinge......hence my comment on the cost.
But I'll check....still at $43 each up their not cheap!.... :-\
That's 40 collets between 1/64 and 5/8 or about $1700....
The SB is going to have to take priority though.
Dave
I have a metric set in "whole" sizes that I got for a good price off the "bay". But lately the prices there...and availability...have just been nuts...the only place to buy new here that I know of is Hardinge......hence my comment on the cost.
But I'll check....still at $43 each up their not cheap!.... :-\
That's 40 collets between 1/64 and 5/8 or about $1700....
The SB is going to have to take priority though.
Dave
Here's some pictures from last night
The high spot was along the middle by the compound spigot and the cross slide nut mounting hole and ran towards the back of the table.
I checked the bottom and found it was still flat
Then I started roughing the high spot down...you will notice the long strokes and large chips.
1 cycle is two passes crossed
first pass
Second pass
followed by aggressive flat filing
If I LEAN on it and sharpen the blade between cycles, and file aggressively, I can get about .0007" per pass.
Here's what the chips look like
For the life of me I don't know why the hump is there but after about 5-8 cycles, its mostly gone now. I'll touch it up a bit to make sure it is not high in the middle, and then I'll mark it up and see what it looks like. The goal is to get the top parallel to the bottom and then get good bearing and a nice flaking for decoration. I'll get on with that next.....must deal with in-laws today. Maybe tonight.
Keep in mind this kind of scraping has more to do with shoveling stock off than it does with anything precision...just getting the stock off...as I get the surfaces parallel, I'll start to scrape for bearing by shortening my strokes and scraping only the marking compound and as the bearing carries across the part I'll shorten the stroke more.
I had to take about .003-.005" off by the way in the middle areas
Dave
The high spot was along the middle by the compound spigot and the cross slide nut mounting hole and ran towards the back of the table.
I checked the bottom and found it was still flat
Then I started roughing the high spot down...you will notice the long strokes and large chips.
1 cycle is two passes crossed
first pass
Second pass
followed by aggressive flat filing
If I LEAN on it and sharpen the blade between cycles, and file aggressively, I can get about .0007" per pass.
Here's what the chips look like
For the life of me I don't know why the hump is there but after about 5-8 cycles, its mostly gone now. I'll touch it up a bit to make sure it is not high in the middle, and then I'll mark it up and see what it looks like. The goal is to get the top parallel to the bottom and then get good bearing and a nice flaking for decoration. I'll get on with that next.....must deal with in-laws today. Maybe tonight.
Keep in mind this kind of scraping has more to do with shoveling stock off than it does with anything precision...just getting the stock off...as I get the surfaces parallel, I'll start to scrape for bearing by shortening my strokes and scraping only the marking compound and as the bearing carries across the part I'll shorten the stroke more.
I had to take about .003-.005" off by the way in the middle areas
Dave
OK
I had a low spot on the table of about .004". Since I think the reason the table is so NON FLAT, is the mill, I'm staying away from it.
I got up early this morning and went through a few roughing cycles. After about an hour, I'm down to .002-.0025 high in the marked areas.
The low spot is the bottom left corner in the photo's.
You can see in the first photo, I have an aversion to holes...it's high all around....I took care of that in subsequent cycles.
Pretty much the periphery of the table is low with the long center..close The plate won't lie but the part can trick you.
I'll start refining the style a bit by shortening the strokes some and easing up. Don't want to go by in some spot and have to take is all down to that point!
no rest for the wicked.
Dave
I had a low spot on the table of about .004". Since I think the reason the table is so NON FLAT, is the mill, I'm staying away from it.
I got up early this morning and went through a few roughing cycles. After about an hour, I'm down to .002-.0025 high in the marked areas.
The low spot is the bottom left corner in the photo's.
You can see in the first photo, I have an aversion to holes...it's high all around....I took care of that in subsequent cycles.
Pretty much the periphery of the table is low with the long center..close The plate won't lie but the part can trick you.
I'll start refining the style a bit by shortening the strokes some and easing up. Don't want to go by in some spot and have to take is all down to that point!
no rest for the wicked.
Dave
