South Bend Model A 9" vs ?

[nx06563]

I have the itch for a new lathe and would like advice from some of the more experienced machinists.
Currently I have an old well worn South Bend 9" 24" long model A that is missing all the options (steady rest, follow rest, thread dial, taper attach). It is plenty big for what I do.
I am not the greatest machinist since I am self taught but I can't get the taper out if I move down the bed without resetting the tailstock. The tailstock is not very rigid. Can't drill without the chuck wobbling. Its my second lathe and a significant improvement over the Bridgemill I started with.
I have done several IC engines. The latest was a Howell V-twin which taxed my abilities but was a great build.
I am hoping I can improve my workmanship with a new lathe.I have been looking at the Precison Mathews 1127vf-lb on the internet and I think it may be what I want.
My requirements:
power cross feed
small enough to haul to the basement.
small enough to haul out of the basement when it comes time.
steady and follow rests
thread dial.
Inch dials
feed both directions
affordable (PM1127 vf is about $3k and in my range)
better than my SB 9

Need an old pro's advice and guidance. What would you buy. What other features would be nice.

Thanks
Hogan

 

[MachineTom]

I owned a SB9 A for many years, it like all old lathes was worn. It also suffered from its own design limitations, Iron on Iron spindle bearings being the biggest thing, This kept the RPM down, and always had looser bearings than I liked whic had an effect to the finish.

But the tailstock was low like yours, so I raised it, careful measurement and plenty of shim stock and got it as it should be. There are other choices like moglice, and such, but for hobbiest shims between the tailstock halfs wil raise and level the quill as needed. The bore in the tailstock has suffered from the PO's using worn and dirty MT's, or also likely a big 1" SD dirill on that little MT2 taper without a tang. So what to do, If you trust yourself make a new quill, or you can buy a mt-2 finish reamer, ream the bore by hand, to give more contact area, don't use SD drills without a torque arm.

For bed wear there is little that can be done, regrinding is more expensive than the lathe is worth. My Monarch has a flame hardened bed, guess what after 50 years its worn, I just work around it. Have you charted it so you know where and how much it effects the cuts, why not?

But with $3k to spend you can maybe buy a brand new Grizzly South Bend, and then its all your wear.

 

[Tin Falcon]

This one would likely meet your needs a variable speed 10 x 22
these lathes seem well liked.
not a South bend but seem pretty capable.





http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0752

 

[John Rus]

3k, if you are willing to wait you should be able to get a nicer used machine than a import or a nicer used import. Are you planning on keeping old south bend or are counting on selling it to finance for the nicer machine?

Other thing to look at is the grizzly 12x24, same as the very popular 12x36 just smaller and a bit cheaper.

John.

 

[nx06563]

Really wanted a grizzley 4002 till I researched the internet on how to get it to a basement. There was talk of 4x4 skids, come alongs, and skid loaders. Too much for this old man to deal with plus a wife and a finished basement except for the shop area. Convinced me a #1000 lathe was too much. I carried the SB9 down by myself after a little disassembly.
And yes I will sell the SB to help finance the new one.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[dnalot]

I bought a Grizzly 4003 and let me tell you the thing is a beast to move. I ended up assembling a rolling scaffold over it so I could lift it up a little, move it into position and then hoist it up the rest of the way. I love the 4003. A friend bought the model Tin suggested and I think its a very nice machine and getting it down into a basement would be easy. The one draw back to that machine is that it lacks a power crossfeed. The smaller machine is also much quieter running.

Mark T

 

[nx06563]

Anybody know about a Smithy MI1130L. It appears to have a power crossfeed and weigh about 440 lbs. Website says the Dial Calibration on longfeed rack is .08 What in the world does that mean?.
Never seen Smithy mentioned on any of the forums which must mean something.

Thanks,
Hogan

 

[John Rus]

There is the south bend 8k lathe from grizzly that's well within your budget and it's almost as accurate as the 12x24. It only weighs 286 lbs so a couple of average guys can hustle it down there.

Cheers,
John.

 

[Wizard69]

Anybody know about a Smithy MI1130L. It appears to have a power crossfeed and weigh about 440 lbs. Website says the Dial Calibration on longfeed rack is .08 What in the world does that mean?. Never seen Smithy mentioned on any of the forums which must mean something. Thanks, Hogan

Smithy is often associated with 3 in 1 machines. Most people will advise against buying 3 in 1 machines. However Smithy does have a line of conventional machines and CNC machines for that matter. I don't really think you can say anything negative about the company because they aren't mentioned regularly in these forums. You might want to see if CNCZone has a Smithy related thread. Beyond that I'm not sure where else you can get unbiased opinions.

 

[martik777]

A smithy would be a major downgrade, the 8k is nice but could you live without a QCGB? not me! You already have a fine lathe, why not tune it up? If your ways are not trashed, get the tailstock setup and reamed, buy or make a steady rest and thread dial. Probably cost less than the tax on a new import. Most tapers are easily handled with the compound

 

[mikbul]

The SB 8K is a hard lathe to beat with the 5" chuck, (J Rolfe did a review on the 10K and turn switch turn test on the chuck, the results he said he didn't think possible on a 3 jaw. ) That's the same chuck that comes on the 10K. With hardened and ground three V ways, Di-3 camlock spindle, 1-1/8" spindle bore,variable speed, 1.5 hp motor, digital tach, Inch and metric threading, solid and straight out of the crate. Also a grand off sale.
Take a look

 

[nx06563]

After a tremendous amount of online research I figured out that the new South Bend 10K does the same stuff my old 9A does. I haven't changed gears since my old Bridgemill (another story) and I'm not willing to take a step back in features. I decided to keep the 9a till the new South Bend 10k comes down a little in price. 5-6K$ is a little much for a hobby lathe.
I did take Machine Tom's advice and researched making my lathe better. I read a post about not bolting the lathe down to the bench top too tightly because if its not level it will put a twist in the bed. Tried loosening the mounting bolts up and putting a jamnut on to secure them. Realigned the tailstock and went from 2 to 3 thou per inch taper to 2 to 3 tenths per inch taper. ( I told you I was a rookie ). Thrilled with the outcome. Bought a Morse taper reamer and used it in the tail stock and it might be marginally more rigid.

I'm happy and ready to order a thread dial to make threading easier.

Thanks for all the good advice.

Hogan

 

[Tin Falcon]

Tools for cheap has them for $100

tin