Mounting a drill chuck

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TarheelTom

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Bought a used Bridgeport recently, and am getting close to getting it ready to run.

Current project is building a heat sink to mount the stepper drivers to. Needs about 24 holes drilled with a #36 bit at reasonably precise locations, then tapped for #6 screws.

Unfortunately, the piece of stock I'm drilling is just way to big to mount in my Sherline, so need to at least spot drill the holes using the Bridgeport. I could then drill them on a manual drill press.

Problem is that I have only 7 tool holders, of which 6 are collet chuck which take a DA180 collet. The few collets I have are pretty big.

What I really need is a way to easily mount a regular drill chuck in the spindle. One idea I have is a drill chuck with a straight arbor, as opposed to a Morse taper, held in one of the collet chucks.

Anyone here crossed that bridge before? Any ideas of the best way to proceed?

Thanks

Tom




4-22-2010 001a.jpg
 
You might find that your Bridgeport is in fact an R8 taper as opposed to a Morse taper. You would have to check.

With regards to your question.

The more parts you build into a precision running article, the more runout you can expect. It is always preferable to run directly from the quill taper, so an R8 arbor with a chuck mounted, rather than having two separate parts, IE the collet, then the drill chuck with a parallel spigot on the back mounted into it.

In fact, by proceeding the way you are suggesting might work out more expensive and time consuming in the long run. An R8 mounting with the correct spigot for your drill chuck is usually only a few bucks.


Bogs
 
Forgot to attach the picture of the tool holders last time. The Bridgeport manual say it is a #30 taper. The picture show the collet chucks which came with it. Eventually I'll buy a full set of DA180 collets, but they still seem to leave a lot of sizes not covered.

Any idea where I could find a #30 holder which would attach to a chuck? What would such an item be called?

Thanks

Tom


4-22-2010 001a.jpg
 
Tom,
You can turn an adapter to fit a center drill. Shown in the photo are two that I use. One with a 3/8 shank mounted in a NMTB 30 holder and one with a 3/16 shank to hold in a collet. Both are 1/8 diameter center drills. Start with oversize stock so you can turn the OD at the same time you drill and ream the hole for the center drill so the OD and ID are concentric. I just Loctite the center drill in the adapter using a high strength Loctite such as 640 or 680. When it comes time to replace the center drill, heat with torch until the Loctite releases and pull the center drill out with pliers. When cool, run a reamer through by hand to remove any residual Loctite before installing a new center drill.

I have run drill chucks with a straight arbor in end mill holders. Biggest disadvantage is the length of the assembly means any runout in the system really shows up and the length often means you have to lower the table to get clearance. NMTB 30 with 1/2 inch chucks are fairly easy to find when the tooling budget permits. As I do mostly small work, I made two NMTB 30 mounts for drill chucks. One for a 1/4 inch chuck and one for a 3/8 chuck. This was mostly just to shorten up the length of the tool so I did not have to crank the table.

I have had good luck with Shars.com end tool holders. Just search the site for NMTB 30. End mill holders up to 1/2 inch are $23.

The Bridgeport BOSS that you have takes the NMTB 30 toolholder. It was an option on that model. It will NOT take a BT30 toolholder. A BT30 will fit in the spindle, but the drawbar end is metric to take a tool retainer knob while your drawbar is 1/2-13 thread. The BT30 is used on machining centers with tool changers.

Often times you will find the NMTB 30 listed as a #30 or 30 INT. Be careful on Ebay as some sellers don't know the difference.

It would be helpful if you would put your location in your profile at least, and preferably in the avatar text line (you don't have to have an avatar) or signature line. Even putting USA in helps. A lot of people will not respond to "where to get" requests if they don't at least know what country you are in. I saw the trailer license plate in one of your "followed me home" photos. If you need help putting it in any of the moderators, including me, will be glad to help you.

Gail in NM


CenterDrill.jpg
 
GailInNM said:
Tom,
You can turn an adapter to fit a center drill. Shown in the photo are two that I use. One with a 3/8 shank mounted in a NMTB 30 holder and one with a 3/16 shank to hold in a collet. Both are 1/8 diameter center drills. Start with oversize stock so you can turn the OD at the same time you drill and ream the hole for the center drill so the OD and ID are concentric. I just Loctite the center drill in the adapter using a high strength Loctite such as 640 or 680. When it comes time to replace the center drill, heat with torch until the Loctite releases and pull the center drill out with pliers. When cool, run a reamer through by hand to remove any residual Loctite before installing a new center drill.

I have run drill chucks with a straight arbor in end mill holders. Biggest disadvantage is the length of the assembly means any runout in the system really shows up and the length often means you have to lower the table to get clearance. NMTB 30 with 1/2 inch chucks are fairly easy to find when the tooling budget permits. As I do mostly small work, I made two NMTB 30 mounts for drill chucks. One for a 1/4 inch chuck and one for a 3/8 chuck. This was mostly just to shorten up the length of the tool so I did not have to crank the table.

I have had good luck with Shars.com end tool holders. Just search the site for NMTB 30. End mill holders up to 1/2 inch are $23.

The Bridgeport BOSS that you have takes the NMTB 30 toolholder. It was an option on that model. It will NOT take a BT30 toolholder. A BT30 will fit in the spindle, but the drawbar end is metric to take a tool retainer knob while your drawbar is 1/2-13 thread. The BT30 is used on machining centers with tool changers.

Often times you will find the NMTB 30 listed as a #30 or 30 INT. Be careful on Ebay as some sellers don't know the difference.

It would be helpful if you would put your location in your profile at least, and preferably in the avatar text line (you don't have to have an avatar) or signature line. Even putting USA in helps. A lot of people will not respond to "where to get" requests if they don't at least know what country you are in. I saw the trailer license plate in one of your "followed me home" photos. If you need help putting it in any of the moderators, including me, will be glad to help you.

Gail in NM

Thanks for the info. I spent several hours searching the net today and found this tool holder

http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/store...271235.32324*EQ8FC7&p_id=27333&xm=on&ppinc=1a

which appears that it will do the job. Spent a lot of time going through his site, and it appears that he is really conversant with the various types of toolholders, and explains why you can use some #30 tool holders and not others.

If I'm understanding the picture right, it will accept a #1 morse taper. I've got several chucks of various sizes which came with the Sherline, and most or all of them have a removable arbor (if that's the right word), and both #0 and #1 arbors are supplied. But I understand that I'll have to chuck it in the lathe and take about 0.1" off the flange diameter.

But I also like the idea of turning a piece of material (aluminum?) and gluing in a center drill. Seems to me like the small diameter of the center drill would mean that very little torque is needed to drive the center drill, so a set screw wouldn't be required.

I also have a HF (pos) drill press with a nice big keyless chuck on a bigger morse taper. This drill press has a very limited vertical range, and I frequently find that it's just not big enough, even for smaller projects. If I had a nmtb 30 morse tool holder which would fit it, I might just move that chuck to the mill and move the drill press to a yard sale. Somebody ought to be stupid enough to give $5, or even $2 for it.

I've updated my profile a little bit. Have an avatar picture around somewhere, but don't know where to find it at the moment. For whatever reason, the info doesn't show up in my posts. Suppose Rick needs to approve it first.

Used to work on weekends in Arizona highlands. Would fly all afternoon, but it's be too late to land in Arizona, so spent the night on the couch at Southwest Air Rangers in Albuquerque. Would then leave Arizona late evening and spend a second night on the same couch. Those were good times.

 
I'm glad Gail said something about those tapers. Like the Ebay sellers he mentioned, guess I don't
know the difference either!

Sorry for the confusion, Tom.

Dean
 
Tom,

My thought was that, just to get by this one job, machine a split sleeve to fit one of the collets. The Locktite idea sounds better though. That would get you past this one drill/tap situation and could be knocked off quickly.

More versatile or accurate could follow as you tool up the big mill.

Alan
Clayton, NC
 
TarheelTom said:
Forgot to attach the picture of the tool holders last time. The Bridgeport manual say it is a #30 taper. The picture show the collet chucks which came with it. Eventually I'll buy a full set of DA180 collets, but they still seem to leave a lot of sizes not covered.

Any idea where I could find a #30 holder which would attach to a chuck? What would such an item be called?

Thanks

Tom
try RDG engineering here in the uk that guy is a wealth of knowledge on these things and has nearly evrything you can imagine just tell him your problem and hell give you the solution as brand new parts verry cheap and is verry rapid at shipping things worldwide
well it has been a family business since 1890 and theres nothing they haven come across before
hope this helps
john
 
Groomengineering said:
Hi Tom. I'm with John here, I think I'd go with something like this http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4030502/NMTB_3040_Taper_Holders with a 3/8" or 1/2" chuck on it. A good solid drill chuck almost a must on a mill.

Cheers

Jeff

In the end, I bought a NMTB 30 holder with a #1 Morse taper.

My mill has the optional Erickson Quick Change tool holder. A standard NMTB 30 tool holder won't quite fit into the Erickson QC. Actually, some will, some won't. The only difference is that the outside diameter of the flange on the NMTB 30 is listed as 1.96". The Erickson QC wants to see a 1.83" flange diameter. A few minutes in the lathe turned my oversize NMTB 30 holder into one that works just fine in the Erickson.

Actually, at least one manufacturer of NMTB 30 holders uses the Erickson smaller flange diameter as standard.

To make a long story shorter, all the holes were center pointed, then drilled on the drill press, and tapped by hand. Only broke 3 of the 6-32 taps.

The Erickson QC setup doesn't have a hole through the spindle for a drawbar. So I'm going to build a small drawbar to hole the drill chuck securely in the tool holder, using just enough pressure to ensure that it doesn't fall out of the holder.

Tom
 

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