ML4 setup

[JCSteam]

I was told that ordinary chuck keys won't fit as the locating hole and the teeth have various off sets. Anyway I'll come back to that one, I complained to their customer services, the attendant didn't even offer to get me one into store for me to collect. Instead opting to send me elsewhere, not good business sense, especially since they don't stock it, though at least they did ring another store to ask if they had one they could transfer for me.

Also drug alcohol test, what an undignified way to get a job. I passed off course, looking forward to a beer now lol. It's official I've joined the grumpy man in the shed club lol.

On a brighter note I took the trip to screw fix and got me the M8 nuts, washers, and threaded bar to bolt my lathe down. I started with the motor and big 1/4" bracket assembly for it. First measured off the frame to make sure that it was square to the bench. And there was clearance at the back to allow air flow all the way around the motor, this is when I found another oil cup, that I hadn't seen yet. Once square took a black marker pen and coloured in where the holes were, then moved the big lump out the way. I took an 8mm drill bit and drilled through the holes with a hand drill, making sure to keep the hole square to the worktop. Once all four were done a quick wipe down and placed the big lump back over the holes.

Then I started work cutting the threaded rod to suitable pieces, I forgot to make sure there was a nut on the first bit of bar, to correct the thread after cutting. So after the first one was made threaded a few on the other clean uncut side, and mounted the bar in my drill, reversing the drill and holding the nuts, fed them down the 90cm length easily. Who wants to be twiddling their nuts when there's work to do.

The studs ware made up with two nuts locked against one another, and a washer, worktop, then big lump, then washer and nut. Once all four were cut in the new (or old) vise they were tapped into place through the drilled holes using the new hammer. Once all was checked for square these were tightened up.

 

[JCSteam]

With the motor brackets now fixed firmly, (forgot to say was double checked after tightening). My attention turned to fixing the lathe down. Since I wanted to make sure that I could adjust any turning taper in the casting, I set up the lathe same as the motor bracket, though to ensure that the belt ran true a spirit level was used as a straight edge from the pulley on the lay shaft to the pulley on the lathe. The position again marked in permanent marker from the feet and drilled through. The studs were made a little longer this time, to allow a second nut and washer to fit under the feet of the lathe so I could level it up. Then once all four studs were in place I brought the lathe back into the shed to rest on the washers and nuts. Some mucking about with the nuts and a spirit level has got it reasonably close. I don't have an incliometer meter so a bubble is the best I could do, will be dialed in better once I have a dial indicator, and test bar. The lathe been raised also makes for clearing swarf easier, the bed casting has a hole in the middle under the chuck, if it was fixed solid to the bench then retrieving the chips and swarf is going to be a bit of a bugger.

Anyhow the lathe is set up just need a belt now, the power cable has been run down the back under the worktop and will be mounted to an on off button and a big stop button right by my leg so if anything bad happens I can wack it with my leg or right hand.

Also a piece of wood will be screwed all the way around the back of the bench so that nothing finds a new home down the back of the unit and worktop

 

[JCSteam]

Also heres the motor and lump up and running

https://youtu.be/wNuXgXxrkCI

 

[bazmak]

Looking at the slide photos you posted,it would be a waste of time
trying to scrape it.The best you can achieve is to file and emery paper
You should get it to a working standard easily.But dont go overboard
trying to get it to a rolls royce standard.An earlier question was how remove the slotted screws.I would get a good ground close fitting screwdriver to
the slot and with grips on the screwdriver turn as hard as you can and at the same time tap gentle the top of the screwdriver and use wd40.There are commercial impact screwdrivers available but expensive

 

[Cogsy]

.There are commercial impact screwdrivers available but expensive

I've had success with the cheapy impact drivers from auto shops over the years. Last one cost me all of about $8. I only ever replace them when I lose the tips.

 

[JCSteam]

Thanks Baz, I did see this on eBay.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Myford-Ml4-Lathe-Bed-/232470958686?nav=WATCHING

I didn't know whether it would be a waste of money, as the machine would need complete rebuild as your mini lathe you made. I think best to get the machine running learn some skills, when I can afford it buy an ML7 or ML10 lathe, happen to know a gent with an ML10 that may be persuaded to part with it. Just need to save some cash first, so may as well play around on this and see what can be made. As said above if nothing else I can learn the techniques even if my precision is frustratingly no existent.

Also Al, Baz, I think I posted I'd managed to get them undone? Cleaned out all the junk in the half nuts and reassembled.

 

[JCSteam]

Well belt from RDG turned up this morning impressed at their service. Free postage and delivered next day

5minutes later belt fitted to lathe, no adjustment of the motor bracket just sized to length and clipped it on. No time to test it as in the last 15minutes fitted the belt to lathe, cleaned myself up, and ironed my shirt and trousers for another interview with a possible start date to the end of this week. Oh and typed this message

 

[JCSteam]

I'M MAKING CHIPS**

Well all is well, started messing around with the lathe, switched it on and started to make chips, video of me messing around with it will be posted tonight. But I have to go out now to meet a fellow machinist. So video will have to wait, for now here's a humble effort from me.

 

[JCSteam]

10 points to who can tell me what I did wrong with this little piece. The evidence is there on the face.

Or rather what was wrong with my set up?

 

[JCSteam]

Here's the boring vid promised before, at least it's running and will continue playing with it, if I'm doing owt wrong that you see in the vid let me know, (The jars of oil beneath the motor isn't a good idea I know, neither are sleeves, will try harder next time, at least I had my goggles on)

https://youtube/4LuntbdjQwU

(How do I embed videos, I've done it once and now I've forgotten)

 

[Cogsy]

(How do I embed videos, I've done it once and now I've forgotten)

Just copy and paste the youtube link, as you've done, but you need the link without youtube split (youtu.be) like this :hhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LuntbdjQwU&feature=youtu.be - note, I've added and extra 'h' to the front of that link so it doesn't display the video.

I skipped through the video as I don't have a lot of time this morning, but I cringed at around 4:30 when you reached over the spinning lathe. This is incredibly dangerous, way more so because you had long, loose sleeves. It would have been very easy to snag one of those spinning bolts and, although it probably wouldn't have killed you, you would have been in a world of hurt and potentially permanently damaged. Please take care not to do that again.

The other thing I noted, although I have never had a Myford, was the tiny cutting depths you were applying. Even on my small Chinese 7X machine I would be taking much more aggressive cuts than that. Not sure if I missed what you were trying to achieve or there was some reason for the light cuts.

 

[JCSteam]

Thanks Al, long sleeves over a spinning chuck, will address that, it's something I should have thought of at the time and I've critasized myself about on another thread, on the Mamod forums. The small cuts and low speed were because I literally didn't know what to expect so started slow, making sure nothing was going to go bang on me and break. I'll be taking heavier cuts today when I get a chance to play with it. (With rolled up sleeves)

 

[goldstar31]

Nice to know that the wheels have actually revolved and metal has been turned.

I'm rather glad that you erred on small cuts and put the part securely in the 3 jaw 'for safety'

Again, you might try to place the front edge of your tool to cut a wider 'bite' rather than using the tip which is perhaps screwcutting.

Comment--- I erred exactly with my SiegC4. One never knows and bits can come out of 'between centres' if care is not taken.

Happy machining

N

 

[JCSteam]

I'll be starting a steam engine project soon, after a bit more playing around, and getting used to the lathe.

Thread here:- http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?p=297158#post297158

 

[bazmak]

I also assumed the light cuts etc were initial fear of the unknown
with a new unfamiliar lathe. As you practice more you will keep
taking deeper cuts and faster feeds etc until you know its capacity
then you can wind back to what suits you.Ever lathe is different
Also concentrate on the tool form and sharpness,it makes a big difference

 

[JCSteam]

Thanks Baz, I've been going a lot harder with it today, machining brass, had a jagged edge to face off, so took light cuts while I could hear the work hitting the tip, once I heard a continuous sound, and the tip was in constant conmection with the work piece, I fed it in a bit faster, and took deeper cuts. Also the angle of the toolpost has been moves so it's now facing much better, as seen in the other thread. A video will be posted shortly showing my scrap bits and plans for them. I also drilled with the tool post today though that didn't go so well as if mucked up earlier trying to be smart, and jumped forward a step. I've explained it on the other thread so won't go into detail again

 

[JCSteam]

Well whilst I was turning the shaft to make into a piston I thought I'd measure what taper if any the lathe was turning. I took a few skim cuts the full length, the brass was around 3" long and turned down to 1/4". I measured it at the furthest edge then the one closest to the chuck. It measured a discrepancy of just 0.002" with my verniers. So considering I haven't set it up properly yet with a test bar. I don't think that's too bad

 

[bazmak]

With only 6mm dia you may be getting flex.centre one end and support
before turning.Even then 2 thou over 3" is not bad

 

[JCSteam]

I certainly did have flex, initially taking very heavy cuts to thin it down to 1/4" from 3/8", when I was close I measured the tip and the piece closest to the chuck, it was nearly 80thou out. So backed it off and took 5thou cuts to get rid of the taper, took a while using the leadscrew as feed, once I was close and the bit closest to the chuck started cutting again I measured again and was 30thou out, so then backed if off to 2 thou cuts eventually a skim cut to get it to size.

 

[bazmak]

centre drill and tailstock support is a must for smaller diameters