ML4 setup

[JCSteam]

Hi John, thanks for the link, I'm on that site too as it happens

My nose is different to the ones mentioned though. It has a 3/4" x 9TPI whitworth nose. Not the 1.1/2" mentioned on the other site. I was looking at trying to identify it as I was looking to buying a collet chuck and a few collets. One that fits to a back plate than uses a taper. So needed to identify the thread on it. As it happens the lathe came with a tap just this size, and seems good condition. So at least I won't need to buy one of those.

 

[bazmak]

If its std 3/4"W then buy a couple of hex nuts (coupling nuts may be better).Weld one to a plate
screw on the lathe and turn to any fitting you want.A good start
would be 80dia with a 55mm spigot drilled to suit cheap chucks
etc for the sieg 7x series of lathes

 

[JCSteam]

That's a good simple idea cheers

 

[JCSteam]

Hello, how do I adjust the slop in the lead screw. I have had a read and it says to tighten the nut. However there isn't anything to tighten against, just a single nut. Any ideas please on how to tighten this up??

There is a lot more wear on the moving surfaces than I thought, i will use some wet and dry paper to try and smooth the dovetails out. Can the paper be glued onto the mating surface??

 

[goldstar31]

There is a lot more wear on the moving surfaces than I thought, i will use some wet and dry paper to try and smooth the dovetails out. Can the paper be glued onto the mating surface??

I think that you need someone with a BIG milling machine in preparation to scraping the bed to a known reference When I did a ML7 bed and Super 7 one in the past, I had them 'blancharded ' on a Lumsden grinder. This enables a straight edge to be scraped to the new known reference. Then, and only then should the other dovetails be addressed. Not with wet and dry .

I've done it but airy fairy techniques are recipes for disaster.

It took the late David Lammas a week to do an early ML and then he tackled the new feed screws

Regards

Norm

 

[JCSteam]

Cripes what have I got myself into

I don't have funds to out source this job. The lathe may be rested up a while for now.

On another note here's a link I found which shows what can be done. May keep a hold of that tumble gear after all now I know where it can be fitted.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford-ml2-rebuild/

 

[fcheslop]

http://neme-s.org/Model_Engineer_Files/Overhaul-a Lathe.pdf

http://totallyscrewedmachineshop.com/documents/Navy-Machinery-Repairman.pdf

http://www.****************.com/threads/bed-wear-and-what-to-do-about-it.34100/

 

[JCSteam]

Thank you Frazer i always love some bedtime reading

 

[fcheslop]

A little hard going but one of the best free books
https://archive.org/details/MachineToolReconditioningEdwardF.Connelly
Sleep tight

 

[JCSteam]

I've just nearly got my head around the one about the scraping, will have to read it a few more times before it sinks in! This is why I like you tube better, I'm a visual learner, more than a book worm. For example setting the cross slide to parralel to the spindle. It took me three attempts of reading through the description before it clicked what he was on about. A demonstration of these practices and It'ld click within seconds. Also must remember that concave setting on the cross slide. Seems a very good idea that. Anyway back to the night light, wish I had a night cap lol.

I must say I'm a little daunted by all this and the idea that my fairly unskilled hands will be attacking (not the right word, but couldn't think of a better way to put it) the lathes precision. Hopefully to increase it. Reading through the second link you posted has made it quite clear what Norman has said, and the reasons why. So cheers, now where's me night cap

 

[Wizard69]

The art of scraping in ways is certainly easier to learn watching somebody. However the two basic concepts, generating flat surfaces and marying parts to those surfaces should be easy to grasp. That is the basics if you add understanding which surfaces need to be parallel to each other you can fit up just about anything with hand tools and a reference surface.

I like to say it isn't hard but it is a skill that develops with practice and time. It wasn't uncommon to take a trainee, throw him a piece of cast iron and have him scrape it flat.

As for your lathe why do you believe it is worn out? It certainly could be as it is an old machine but it could also be out of adjustment with gibs loose. Frankly if you are new to the craft i wouldn't become too obsessed with a lathe rebuild if it is at all serviceable. Even a new lathe will require you to learn how to adjust it and work with backlash.

In a nit shell you can start to improve your skills on even a fairly worn out lathe. Further by using the lathe you will discover which areas are in greater demand of remediation.

I've just nearly got my head around the one about the scraping, will have to read it a few more times before it sinks in! This is why I like you tube better, I'm a visual learner, more than a book worm. For example setting the cross slide to parralel to the spindle. It took me three attempts of reading through the description before it clicked what he was on about. A demonstration of these practices and It'ld click within seconds. Also must remember that concave setting on the cross slide. Seems a very good idea that. Anyway back to the night light, wish I had a night cap lol.



I must say I'm a little daunted by all this and the idea that my fairly unskilled hands will be attacking (not the right word, but couldn't think of a better way to put it) the lathes precision. Hopefully to increase it. Reading through the second link you posted has made it quite clear what Norman has said, and the reasons why. So cheers, now where's me night cap

 

[TonyM]

Quote: Wizard69 - I like to say it isn't hard but it is a skill that develops with practice and time. It wasn't uncommon to take a trainee, throw him a piece of cast iron and have him scrape it flat. Quote:

I remember my first jobs as an apprentice in the mid 60's was to make a cold chisel and a flat scraper. We were then told to take a 4'' length of 1'' round bar and make it square. First chisel it to a square bar. leave one side a chisel finish, one side a rough file finish, one a fine file finish and the last scraped. Surprising how quickly we learned to take a few short cuts.

 

[JCSteam]

Thank you for your replies. I have reassembled the lathe. Tightened everything up so it doesn't wobble. It's a bit stiff, but will move without excess force. Put it this way it's not as tight as that jar of jam you can't open lol.

On another note, I've also been to a couple of car boot sales today, and continuing the theme of tools for not a high out lay. Came back with this little lot. Grand total was £23.90.

It includes a Rothenburge small torch, 4" Vise, 2 tins of gas, two file, (or scraping) handles, a box for some of the more used taper drills and reamers, (will be easier for me to find), a large hammer with a rounded head, and a few clamping fixtures. One which I think will be handy to hold the pipes in line when soldering the Mamod copper pipes to the engine frame.

 

[DJP]

One looks like the support arm for a dial gauge. You'll need this for your lathe.

 

[JCSteam]

One looks like the support arm for a dial gauge. You'll need this for your lathe.

That's why I chucked this in the bag. It's home made and pretty bent. So at the very least will be useful scrap, but might be useful in setting stuff in the chuck??? Though at the moment I've just used the cutting tool, and veniers to measure the gap, rudemetry and not the best way to do it. But the veniers showed that it was 0.001" out. So within 0.002" concentric. I've seen a magnetic dial indicator for around £14 on ebay, so I'll be buying one of those.

 

[JCSteam]

Back Gear

Just so I'm clear on how to use the back gear on my ML4, sequence should go as thus, (please correct any inaccurate opperation).....

1. Unscrew the grub screw from the three pulleys
2. Rotate the bull gear so that you can see down the grub screw hole to the spindle
3. Rotate spindle until you see the machined flat on the spindle.
4. Screw grub screw into hole to locate the bull gear to spindle.
5.undo the securing nut on the cam lever, and back gears
6. Bring gears into mesh using the cam lever.
7. Lock the securing nut up.

Am i correct in that the pulley and the first gear of the back gears are as one unit? Press fit or pinned together?

 

[Cogsy]

Looks to be a clamp for a retort stand in there as well. I've never considered using them as clamps at home but they'd work well. I'll keep an eye out at the next lab clean-out and maybe pick some up.

 

[goldstar31]

I've just had my attention drawn to the latest Lidl offer for a reciprocating branch saw- for under £30.
OK, it is different to mine but recently mine has had smoke coming out of it= and still works.
So move a little and there is correspondence on Madmodder site re the possibility of using it as a scraper. Sort of putting two and two together, whatever can be achieved, it's a great tool. I felled a row of over tall leylandii with it. you get the idea? There is a lot of talk about scraping and it's hard work-- and the proper machines are dead pricey.

I'll leave it for those who are going down that route.

Somewhere else, I'm trying to find a place to brag about my new toy:hDe:

Regards

N

 

[JCSteam]

Been a busy bee today, despite been let down by a company in Stockton for my chuck key for the Jacobs chuck. I went and bought some M8 threaded rod, large washers and some M8 nuts to fix the lathe to the bench.

Will post some pics and description of what and why after I've done a drug and alcohol test for a new job I'm going for.

 

[goldstar31]

Been a busy bee today, despite been let down by a company in Stockton for my chuck key for the Jacobs chuck. I went and bought some M8 threaded rod, large washers and some M8 nuts to fix the lathe to the bench.

Try Screwfix for a single key or Toolstation who sells a 4 ended chuck key. Cheap/Cheapish

Try and buy or reject!