marking lathe dials

[kd0afk]

I want to upgrade my SB9"'s lathe dials so that they are readable. Right now the area at the "0" mark is worn down and very hard to read. Tried bluing them but the marks are so thin it didn't help any. I don't own a universal dividing head nor the money to buy one but I want to mark the new dials I make. This might be a dumb question but can't I just use a 100 toothed gear as an indexing disk to set the incrementation of the dial marks? Seems too simple to work right but that's just me. It would save me a ton of money if it would work.

 

[n4zou]

Use a dial indicator instead of attempting to remark your dials. Think of it as a poor mans DRO. It will be much more accurate than your dial too.

 

[kd0afk]

If I go with a DRO I'll go with with something like this:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Digital-Readouts-with-Dedicated-Remote-Display

 

[MachineTom]

What diameter is the dial you are needing. I may have one that will fit. Tell me ID and OD.

So time ago I refitted the dials from a 10" SB that was too much work. Then i got these others.

 

[Tin Falcon]

This might be a dumb question but can't I just use a 100 toothed gear as an indexing disk to set the incrementation of the dial marks? Seems too simple to work right but that's just me. It would save me a ton of money if it would work.

a hundred divisions is a hundred divisions does not matter how they are generated as long as reasonably accurate. holes turning of gears or the gear itself.
Tin

 

[abby]

I would advise you give that DRO a miss , unless it's for woodwork.

 

[ProdEng]

Coincidentaly I made a dial for my leadscrew handwheel today using a rotary table.

Your idea of using a gear will work, you just need to mount the gear on the rear of the spindle, arrange some kind of detent along with a spindle lock.

 

[Tin Falcon]

KD

the entire collection of popular mechanics magazine is archived in google books.
do some research there for simple indexing methods and dial making. it would give you a few ideas if nothing else.
tin

 

[Gordon]

If you subscribe to Model Engine Builder magazine they just released a digital article on making dials. I have not really read it yet but it looks like a good article but probably more than you want to tackle for a one time fix.

 

[kd0afk]

If you subscribe to Model Engine Builder magazine they just released a digital article on making dials. I have not really read it yet but it looks like a good article but probably more than you want to tackle for a one time fix.

If it's the article I read, it talks about re-purposing a dial from another machine but I will double check it.

 

[kd0afk]

I would advise you give that DRO a miss , unless it's for woodwork.

Wow, I just noticed the position of the decimal point. Thanks.

 

[MachineTom]

Look again at the spec's the resloution is .001", the 1/32 is only when set to the fractional scale.

The problem I see with the cheap DRO's is the swarf issues that affect all dro's. The cheap ones look to have no wipers at all on the scales. Each scale on my machines has shields over the scales and heads, but chips find there way in regardless. The wipers are the only thing that keeps out the chips from the reader heads.

 

[kd0afk]

Coincidentaly I made a dial for my leadscrew handwheel today using a rotary table.

Your idea of using a gear will work, you just need to mount the gear on the rear of the spindle, arrange some kind of detent along with a spindle lock.

Did you cut the lines with that end mill? If the one MachineTom has doesn't work out I was thinking of using a cutter ground down to a fine point and mounted in the qctp and scribe the lines on. And making a stamp holder for the numbers.
As for the DRO, I do believe that the tire gauge/DRO's will read the strips that come with the kit. If not, I found a place that sells 3' lengths of the strip PC. Put that together with the home built power supply and interface I have seen elsewhere in other forums and enclose the whole thing in some aluminum c-channel and I think it would be as reliable as an accurite. Might not have all the bells and whistles but it will do what it's designed to do. If you knew how to program chips you could even give it the bells and whistles.

 

[lampy]

If I go with a DRO I'll go with with something like this:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Measurement/Digital-Readouts-with-Dedicated-Remote-Display

Looks like the one I saw at Grizzley http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Digital-Scale-with-Remote-Readout-Inch-Metric-Fraction/T23012

 

[kd0afk]

found this at grizzly. http://www.grizzly.com/products/T24360

 

[ProdEng]

KD,

The lines where indeed cut with the endmill.

 

[martik777]

Easy way to index the graduations is to print out a 'lined' pie chart, glue it to the back of your chuck and make a pointer. As long as your spindle stays in place this works very well. I just tension up the belt on my South bend and it stays put.

or

You can get a 100 division dial like this for <$10
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3359&category=

 

[chipenter]

I have just last week upgraded my SB 9" with larger dials , and what a difference the extra 3\4" makes so much clearer and easer to read , a 100 tooth gear will work just need some ingenuity to mount and lock to cut .

 

[martik777]

Did you do the whole thrust bearing upgrade and leadscrew extension or just graft a new dial on ? Got a photo?

 

[bb218]

I assume since it is a 100 division dial it is on radius, I would search Ebay for a 200 division Hardinge dial so you will be working on the diameter and adapt it to fit. Mike