Kiwi Mk2 Engine

[steamer]

Actually, I have a 5 pound tub of the Kasenit....bought it years ago.

What is so unsafe about it?

Dave

 

[Blogwitch]

Dave,

The early Kasenit powder contained cyanide, the later non toxic one doesn't.


John

 

[tvoght]

I've read through this build from the beginning. Gosh, this is gonna be a pretty engine.

 

[vcutajar]

tvoght

Welcome to this build log. I hope it's not going to be just a pretty engine but also a runner.

I am making the build log so detailed because when I started it out I could hardly find any info on the Kiwi and only a partial build log. So if somebody in the future decides to make the Kiwi at least they can find a bit more info on how to go about it.

Vince

 

[steamer]

tvoght

Welcome to this build log. I hope it's not going to be just a pretty engine but also a runner.

I am making the build log so detailed because when I started it out I could hardly find any info on the Kiwi and only a partial build log. So if somebody in the future decides to make the Kiwi at least they can find a bit more info on how to go about it.

Vince

Thank you!

Dave

 

[vcutajar]

Finished up the rectangular base of the cylinder. The cylinder is basically complete except for the four tapped holes on the top of the cylinder for the cylinder head.

Yesterday a thought occured to me. What if I need to remove the flywheel? Some might say tap it off but if possible I would like to avoid doing that. The other alternative is a puller. So yestreday I started a search on ebay. I am looking for something like this as I think it supports the flywheel better (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14PC-Heav...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c27117695). I found a couple of UK sellers that dispatched to the EU but the delivery costs where a bit too much (I guess due to the weight). So today I went to three local toolshops and actually found something similar but they were pretty expensive. So I will keep my eyes open for something less expensive or maybe make my own.

 

[vcutajar]

I was not going to waste a day thinking about the cylinder head and not do anything useful on the engine.

So I thought why not broach the keyway in the cams. I have been putting it off ( even though I have all the necessary equipment ) as it is a new procedure for me. So this evening I bit the bullet and made it.

Photo 1 is showing the 2 & 3 mm broach set I got some weeks ago. I took a piece of aluminium and drilled and reamed a 6mm hole for the broach collar. Photo 2 shows the collar in the cam and aluminium piece. Transferred the setup to the hydraulic press oiled the broach and started going down slowly adding oil as the broach was going down (photo 3). Phew, made it.

The finished product (photo 4). I did not do the second pass with the spacer as the keyway (I think) is deep enough. Next to make the 2mm key.

I did not do the timing gear that sits next to the cam as I will do it when the timing is done on the engine.

 

[ronkh]

Hi Vince,
I'm still following your build and believe this or not, I have just spent the previous hour and a half re-reading it!
Good going mate and am looking forward to seeing it run.

Kind regards,

Ron.

 

[vcutajar]

Thanks Ron for the support and morale booster.

and am looking forward to seeing it run.

As am I, as am I.

Vince

 

[steamer]

Hang tough Vince.....Your getting there!

Dave

 

[vcutajar]

This evening after work started work on the 2 X 2mm key. I had a piece of steel with a thickness of 2.4 mm and started carving out the key using hacksaw, hand files and the grinder wheel which was turned by hand. (my fingers where too close to use it under power. Well after an hour working on it and getting it close I could not feel my fingertips anymore, so called it a day.

Came here to write this piece but something at the back of my mind was saying - "Go on ebay, Go on ebay". Went on ebay and there it was. A piece of keysteel 2mm square and 300mm long :wall:.

Well you can imagine what happened next. I bought it. No more fingertip bashing.

 

[steamer]

Rof}
And I thought I was the only one who does that!

 

[vcutajar]

Ordered from Hemingways a 10x1mm sparkplug and a couple of tungsten points (not sure if I am going to use these points yet).

A lot of trial setups were experimented to hold the cylinder head casting. Have not decided which one to use yet.

 

[vcutajar]

Haven't been idle these last couple of days. Finally work on the cylinder head has started.

The cylinder head casting (photo 1) has bosses for the mounting holes. They should be on a PCD of 1.5" but they are not exactly there. The distances between the holes should be 26.94mm. The distance along the fins between the holes are 26.94mm but across the fins they are 25.94mm. A little compromise had to be made.

I started off by clamping the head in the vice aligning the fins to the x axis of the table and keeping it level as much as possible (photo 2). I then milled off all the bosses and skimmed a little the fins (photo 3).

Then using the DRO I marked the holes and drilled and partially threaded 4mm the holes (photo 4). I have a habit of putting a screw in a newly made thread so that the hole will not get filled with swarf whilst doing the other ops.

 

[vcutajar]

Photo 1 is showing the top of the head after all ops. I have also marked the centre between the holes just in case.

Next I chucked up a piece of 65mm aluminium stock and partially parted a piece off. In the same setup still using the parting tool I cleaned up the sides of the disk (photo 2). Then I hacksawed the disk off and faced off and cleaned it up (photo 3). I left a mark of the centre on the disk.

 

[vcutajar]

More work done. Starting from the centre of the disk and using the DRO and the same distances between the holes, drilled, reamed (4mm) and countersunk the four holes (photo 1). Memo to self :- why did I take so long to fit the DRO?

Photo 2 is showing the cylinder head bolted to the disk and photo 2 the whole assembly in the 3 jaw chuck. The bottom of the cylinder head was faced off to dimension (photo 4).

p.s. I do not know why, but I sort of have a bad feeling about this casting, which I did not have when working on the other castings. Keeping my finger crossed.

 

[Charles Lamont]

Yesterday a thought occured to me. What if I need to remove the flywheel? Some might say tap it off but if possible I would like to avoid doing that. The other alternative is a puller.

My Seagull flywheel, http://www.charleslamont.me.uk/Seagull/drive_coupling.html has three tapped holes for a flexible drive coupling I have made. The studs have to come out to get the flywheel nut off, and then 5BA screws a simple flat plate with three holes in it provide a perfectly satisfactory puller.

 

[vcutajar]

Thanks Charles for the idea.

Great site you have there on the Seagull build.

Vince

 

[vcutajar]

More work on the cylinder head. Today decided to do the combustion chamber. Is that the correct terminology in I.C. engines? I know it's called that in turbine engines.

Marked out the two diameters I needed (photo 1) and milled it out first with a 15mm slot drill and then with a 20mm endmill (photo 2). Then continued with a boring bar (photo 3).

Using the same boring bar I turned the shallow groove to fit the cylinder liner lip. I actually used the cylinder liner lip as a gauge. Depth was adjusted just to leave a hairline space between the cylinder and the cylinder head (photo 4).

I left a centre mark in the combustion chamber just in case I need it later on.

 

[vcutajar]

Machined a fin from solid in the bottom of the cylinder head. Used the same parting tool I had used when I did the fins in the cylinder.

The engine is starting to take shape.