Jan Ridders Flame Licker but an unrunning engine

[esteam]

I built my first flame licker last two weeks. But I tried everything, read all documents and suggestions and also trouble shootings about this engine. I made three different pistons, tried them. But unfortunately it didn't run. I gave up now. Anyway, at least it looks good

Best Regards

Erdem

 

[chuck foster]

you are right it is a very good looking engine :bow: :bow:

sorry i can't help you get it running cause i have never played with one.

chuck

 

[rake60]

Nice build!

I have one just like it that was built about 2 years ago.
Never got it to run either. One of these days I intend to
give it another going over.

Rick

 

[putputman]

Erdem, You have a very nice looking engine. Don't give up on getting it to run.

I built one just like yours and had a very difficult time getting it to run. I also made several pistons and ended up with graphite pistons and a very close fit. Still had problems getting it to cycle more than a few strokes.

I finally increased the fire by extending the wick. With much more fire than I thought was necessary, it began to run. The fire location is also critical.

It is something you might want to try. Good luck

 

[esteam]

Thank you guys. It's so good to see that I'm not alone

Is there anyone to see a video of running Jan Ridders flame licker?

Erdem

 

[rake60]

Jan has several videos of his engine designs on You Tube.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4a08VHD6mY&feature=channel_page[/ame]

 

[mklotz]

Use your alcohol lamp to preheat the cylinder before attempting to run the engine. Get the cylinder too hot to touch before trying to run the engine.

If the cylinder is too cold it will quench the incoming hot gas before the valve can shut completely and, as a result, no vacuum can form in the cylinder. No vacuum means no power stroke.

With a metallic piston, try a bit of heavy oil (I use automotive 30w) on the piston to form a better seal. None of my flame lickers have graphite pistons so I won't recommend this procedure for graphite pistons.

Test your valve to ensure that it's really sealing. I rigged up a rubber cork with a length of silicone tubing, stuck the cork into the (pistonless) cylinder and sucked gently with the valve in the closed position to be sure the valve was sealing as the vacuum "develops".

 

[esteam]

Thank you Marv. I didn't use graphite pistons in this engine either. I'll try your recommendations. I hope it works.

Best Regards

Erdem

 

[putputman]

The large flame on Jan's engine is very noticeable in that video. When I used a smaller flame it had a tendency to blow out on the return stroke.

 

[Blogwitch]

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=212.0

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=350.0


Blogs

 

[David Morrow]

I haven't finished mine yet but when I saw this topic, I saved it for "that" day...


http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2814.0

 

[steamer]

Thanks Blogwitch! ;D

Dave

 

[Stan]

My experience with flame lickers (not Jan Ridders) is that if you use normal care in piston fit, valve fit and valve timing then almost always the problem is the flame.

I have frequently experimented with flame size and flame position and small changes in flame position make marked change in engine speed. with a running engine, it doesn't take a lot of position change to go from top speed to stopped. By position change, I mean in any one of the three axis (side to side, in and out, up and down).

 

[kustomkb]

And another link; http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3568.0

I poured a little powdered graphite into the cylinder and worked all around. didn't seem to hurt anything.

 

[JP2]

I just finished a Duclos Little Blazer and had similar experience. With a little more time I'm sure you can get it running. I had to make a number of adjustments to get the Little Blazer running. Most of the adjustments were to remove friction. I reduced the valve spring tension, did additional clean up on the cam, adjusted the valve rod so there was absolutely no drag. After doing the above items, the engine would run turn a couple of seconds and then quite. I read somewhere on this forum about using Coleman fuel instead of alcohol and gave that a try. That made a significant difference. With the adjustments and Coleman fuel, the engine will run until it gets too hot. Hang in there!

 

[cfellows]

I just finished a Duclos Little Blazer and had similar experience. With a little more time I'm sure you can get it running. I had to make a number of adjustments to get the Little Blazer running. Most of the adjustments were to remove friction. I reduced the valve spring tension, did additional clean up on the cam, adjusted the valve rod so there was absolutely no drag. After doing the above items, the engine would run turn a couple of seconds and then quite. I read somewhere on this forum about using Coleman fuel instead of alcohol and gave that a try. That made a significant difference. With the adjustments and Coleman fuel, the engine will run until it gets too hot. Hang in there!

I was the one that switched from alcohol to Coleman fuel to get my Poppin to run. I did get it running but the flame has a lot of yellow in it.

Unfortunately, there are a numerous kinds of alcohol and finding the right one to use for fuel has been a little elusive for me. Some alcohols, such as rubbing alcohol, are 70% alcohol and 30% water. Burns, but doesn't put out much heat. Denatured alcohol generally has a higher percentage of alcohol, but I don't know how much.

Can anyone point to a good reference on the different alcohols available for fuel today and where to get them?

Chuck

 

[kustomkb]

I use methyl hydrate. don't know anything about temp. differences tho'

 

[gilessim]

I too made this engine and like everyone else had "fun" getting it running, it did go in the end though!, now it sits on a shelf with some other engines that gave me a PITA!, you should try to get some alcohol for french polish as it has to be at least 99% for it to work.

Giles