Interesting flame licker
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Bogstandard
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You have done a wonderful job on that. Very well engineered.
When I built mine as an experimental platform I found that the burner position as shown on the drawings just would not work with any reliabilty.
Before you go into making a new design burner have a look at my posts on this engine, even the designer recognises that my position of the burner is more efficient.
Lots of luck getting it to run.
John
When I built mine as an experimental platform I found that the burner position as shown on the drawings just would not work with any reliabilty.
Before you go into making a new design burner have a look at my posts on this engine, even the designer recognises that my position of the burner is more efficient.
Lots of luck getting it to run.
John
Cedge
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John
The diamond lapping compound comments are well heeded. Oddly, a friend and fellow collector and I were discussing the need to lap the cylinders of my current project and he sent me a link to an interesting source for lapping compounds. The product is called "TimeSaver Lapping Compound" and comes in a numbe rof grades. It is made to degrade during the lapping process, becoming a polish and then an inert non abrasive material. Supposedly it allows for lapping without worrying about having to chase stray bits of grit when the job is done.
You can read all about it at http://www.newmantools.com/lapping/time.htm . It appears that it might have some interesting potential for hobby use.
Steve
The diamond lapping compound comments are well heeded. Oddly, a friend and fellow collector and I were discussing the need to lap the cylinders of my current project and he sent me a link to an interesting source for lapping compounds. The product is called "TimeSaver Lapping Compound" and comes in a numbe rof grades. It is made to degrade during the lapping process, becoming a polish and then an inert non abrasive material. Supposedly it allows for lapping without worrying about having to chase stray bits of grit when the job is done.
You can read all about it at http://www.newmantools.com/lapping/time.htm . It appears that it might have some interesting potential for hobby use.
Steve
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Steve,
That looks like a good product, if it does all it claims.
The test kit sounds a good idea, the quantities that we use that should last a lifetime. Shame it is not available in the UK otherwise I would try some.
I have used something similar, and that I think had a bicarbonate of soda base, but it was only used for very fine lapping and washed away with water.
No prices shown though.
John
That looks like a good product, if it does all it claims.
The test kit sounds a good idea, the quantities that we use that should last a lifetime. Shame it is not available in the UK otherwise I would try some.
I have used something similar, and that I think had a bicarbonate of soda base, but it was only used for very fine lapping and washed away with water.
No prices shown though.
John
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Hi Ian,
I have contacted Jan over the last week or two and found him very helpful, he explained to me the total working of the flame licker and put my mind to rest as I was getting very unexpected results.
A very knowledgeable man. He will be a great asset to understanding how these engines work.
John
I have contacted Jan over the last week or two and found him very helpful, he explained to me the total working of the flame licker and put my mind to rest as I was getting very unexpected results.
A very knowledgeable man. He will be a great asset to understanding how these engines work.
John
Powder keg
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I've not built this engine. But, on the fire eater I built, more fire makes it run faster. If you are having troubles make sure everything is friction free. The new piston I made is .0005 looser than I wanted and it runs great! If i remember right, the timing is better Retarded?
Good luck, Wes
Good luck, Wes
Lew Hartswick
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OK so we have 2 cyl opposed and a 2cyl inline. Anyone for a flat 4? 
...lew...
...lew...
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Bentprop,
I think your statement has solved the problem for you.
This engine relies on the carbon content of the cast iron cylinder and pistons for its lubrication and running qualities. Also the bores need to be lapped to a glass like finish and the pistons slide thru like silk.
Lew,
When eventually I get a bit of time, I already have plans for a four or six cylinder boxer configuration engine. The stumbling block is the method of heat input to the engines and getting it the same to each cylinder. I managed to get the twin running by critical placement of the meths burners, but this would be almost impossible to achieve using more cylinders. I have the plans for a micro bunsen burner system and hope to develop it to give repeatable output for each cylinder.
John
Two links to my twin build
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=212.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=350.0
It might answer a few questions for you.
I think your statement has solved the problem for you.
This engine relies on the carbon content of the cast iron cylinder and pistons for its lubrication and running qualities. Also the bores need to be lapped to a glass like finish and the pistons slide thru like silk.
Lew,
When eventually I get a bit of time, I already have plans for a four or six cylinder boxer configuration engine. The stumbling block is the method of heat input to the engines and getting it the same to each cylinder. I managed to get the twin running by critical placement of the meths burners, but this would be almost impossible to achieve using more cylinders. I have the plans for a micro bunsen burner system and hope to develop it to give repeatable output for each cylinder.
John
Two links to my twin build
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=212.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=350.0
It might answer a few questions for you.
I've nearly finished one of these and I'm having some doubts because I used SS for the pistons and cast iron for the cylinder , I only had an 8" length of 35mm cast iron to start and it seemed a shame to cut it down for the pistons ,I had 2 go's at them but now they are a nice gas tight fit ,they both move together with the suction ,any ideas that this will work or not with the heat?
Giles
Giles
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Giles,
The only way is to suck it and see.
Jan was fairly clear about using the right materials for building his engines, because of the different expansion rates. I don't know what the difference is between the two materials you have used, but maybe expect a bit of trouble.
Don't forget to warm up the cylinder first, I use a blowtorch for 30 secs. Otherwise you will spend ages trying to get it going by the heat being transferred thru from the burner.
That is the most frustrating time, trying to get the burner in the right position.
John
The only way is to suck it and see.
Jan was fairly clear about using the right materials for building his engines, because of the different expansion rates. I don't know what the difference is between the two materials you have used, but maybe expect a bit of trouble.
Don't forget to warm up the cylinder first, I use a blowtorch for 30 secs. Otherwise you will spend ages trying to get it going by the heat being transferred thru from the burner.
That is the most frustrating time, trying to get the burner in the right position.
John
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