Brilliant.It's been a little bit tough getting time on the little GX160 at this time of year. Honda have had many fuel caps on this engine and the current one is probably the ugliest bit of chunkiness to date so I chose something to my liking from over the many production years. Fusion 360 and the new router to form. It has a 3/4" fine internal thread with a groove for venting. A male spigot was the next part to make. Had to order a gear up for the Myford and catch up on some threading on the lathe. Epoxied in the top section of the fuel tank., and forgot to take pictures of the whole procedure! The petrol tank is now epoxied together and has its stainless outlet tube which exits just under the fan shroud cover.
Moving on to the Faux carb. I had 3D printed this and done a mockup so it was pretty much make the same from aluminum with some detail work to make the bottom half look more like the original carb.
I decided to incorporate an air bleed in roughly the same position as the original idle mixture screw mainly with the thought of having some adjustment without removing the air filter housing, if it doesn't work I can always screw it all the way in. The OS carb had to be reduced in many areas but nothing that will change its function.
Non of the rattle can paint I used is petrol proof. Something I took for granted it would be. I have some 2 Pack clear in aerosol that hopefully will take care of that and not react with what is currently on there. Onwards and upwards
Wow - - - methinks when you're all done that you might want to just build a full size GX 340 or 390 and then you're set - - - you'll have fantastic model and a great engine.After painting parts with regular rattle can from a car accessary shop I suddenly became aware of how this paint does not hold up to any solvents when I spilt some isopropyl alcohol. This is a petrol engine and even with the greatest of care I figured some would eventually find its way onto the paint.
Starting again, stripping everything and using 2K product from an automotive paint shop came to mind. I have gone this road when building Nitro powered RC models. Works great but expensive and you end up with lots of paint because usually it is only available in 1 liter tins.
First I thought I would try clear coating over what I already had.
The big negative on this is how the paint will react to another product being applied on top. I convinced myself I could not leave the paint as it was so with nothing to lose I gave some 2K rattle can clear coat a shot. I have never used the product before but in reviews it looked like this particular one came on top. The hardener is in the can and you mix the 2 by pressing a pin on the underside. Maybe this is old news to many but new to me anyway.
Happy days! Amazing product and no paint reaction. I am going to give the clear a week to totally harden off before assembling the components to each other.
The transfers were done by a friend that builds exquisite miniature replicas of powerboats. Because white apparently cannot be printed on these transfers a thin vinyl backing gets applied first to the part then the water transfer float on. The 2K clear coat seals these in position.
I have included some photos of the modified Zenoa internals.
The wavy washer under the screw sets up a slight drag when the reel is rotated by the cord, that lifts and engages the drive sprag to the engine. Both the engine starting and the return of the pull cord retracts and disengages the sprag. Magic!
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