Gasket making

[edholly]

Here's a way I just used to transfer a gasket outline onto a card.

Using a Pentel Permanent Marker pen - or a Texta would do, coated the body O wanted to transfer with the ink from the pen. Of course it dries too quick to use - so hit the card with a bit of carby cleaner - or ant fast drying solvent will do and pressed the body against it ... here's the result.

 

[mcostello]

Another way would be to hold the gasket material tight on to the part and tap lightly on a corner of the part several times. This would cut through the gasket material. Tap around the part to find a bolt hole and insert a bolt to hold the gasket material in position. Continue around the part adding bolts when possible. When outside edge is done then the internal edge can be finished.

 

[SixSixSevenSeven]

Another way would be to hold the gasket material tight on to the part and tap lightly on a corner of the part several times. This would cut through the gasket material. Tap around the part to find a bolt hole and insert a bolt to hold the gasket material in position. Continue around the part adding bolts when possible. When outside edge is done then the internal edge can be finished.

That's the method I've seen recommended before. Video demonstration:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvvKu56nHDw[/ame]

 

[cobweb81]

There is another very simple way to outline your gasket that I have used since I was a teenager. Simply coat the part with oil or grease and press to the gasket material. Leaves a very clear image of the surface and there is no risk of damaging the surface with a hammer.

 

[Wizard69]

That's the method I've seen recommended before. Video demonstration:

I've used this method for years. Works very well as long as the pattern material isnt to soft.


Other options include;

1. "Glueing" the gasket material to one half of the part and then trimming afterwards with a knife or other suitable tool. Glue in this case being suitable for use on gaskets and under the operating conditions.
2. As already described use a method similar to the movie you linked to but do the bolt holes first. Use them to help keep the gasket I place.
3. If you have the capability or access draw around the part with a pen, pencil or whatever and then cut with heavy scissors or tin snips. This is good and quick if you don't need to remove center material such as for a cover.
4. For doing the bolt holes it is sometimes advantageous to use a pin punch to pop out the bolt holes. You have to be fairly close to the clearance hole size and the gasket stock has to be thin enough that you can feel alignment. Sometimes I just tap the assembly bolts through the clearance holes

 

[barnesrickw]

My OLD and probably long passed auto-shop teacher showed me the hammer a gasket method when I was in high school. He was a grumpy old guy, but he cared about students and the skills he taught. Wish I would have thanked him years ago.


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines

 

[WOB]

There is simply need to waste time hand cutting sheet gaskets in light of current technology. There a multitude of gasket maker chemicals on the market that have made sheet gaskets obsolete. One I have used a lot in building engines is Loctite 515. It is a one component, anaerobic gel that dispenses easily through a syringe, cures rapidly, and is surface insensitive. The cured material does not stick tightly to the flange surfaces so clean up is simple if a joint has to opened for some reason. The flanges are torqued to metal to metal so that joint loosening due to gasket creep is not possible. Any squeeze-out is easily wiped away but there should not be much unless you have deposited too much gel on the flange. I normally use a syringe that leaves a 1-2mm wide bead of gel on one surface. About the only gasket application on an engine that cannot be met with current chemical makers is the head gasket.

WOB

 

[ICEpeter]

In addition to Loctite 515 there is an other product that is suitable for use as a head gasket material / seal. It is also a gel / liquid for metal to metal sealing and high temperature resistant. The product name is Hylomar Universal Blue. It is used in the assembly of Rolls Royce turbine engines and in the race car industry. The draw back with this product is its price for - a small syringe cost you about US $ 90.00

Another more affordable product is called Hondabond, good for up to 600 degree F and available from any Honda dealer.

Peter J.