First lathe and mill help! -sherline.

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08moffata

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Hi There, my name is Alex and im am very interested in miniature engines. i have been toying with the idea of purchasing a lathe and mill from sherline for a while now and once my car is sold i will purchase one.

i am looking for some input on the sizes of the sherline lathes and mills and their capabilities. what attachments would you suggest? i am unsure of what i will build at this stage, but i would like to be able to make a v6 in the future.

i look forward to your input.
 
im worried about the accuracy with these machines, what accuracy can you expect?
 
If you do some research you will find that the sherline equipment is well regarded. I think its more a case of what you intend to use it for. The sherline gear tends to be aim at the smaller sized work but in its envelope, based on the research I did when originally thinking about a lathe purchase, it can with an operator paying due attention and care, produce extremely accurate work.

Cheers,
James.
 
thanks for your input james, did you end up going with the sherline? and do you think the sherline lathes would be able to handle most of the projects on here?
 
For my tuppeneth,i can only say that the sieg I bought is as accurate as you would ever want to be and would handle much more than anything a sherline will
depends what you want.If you read some of the threads ,Bazmak diary
of a sieg sc2 and various sites for reviewing and modding you can compare the lathe and make an educated decision.I spent quite a while making my decision and do not regret it.The main advantage with the smaller lathe is they can be moved around single handed.I success fully turned 5" dia mild steel with mine
and single point screw cut an M40x1mm pitch screw thread.Take your time
but I would point out that there are a great many,cheap chinese accessories to be had.Things I would not have dreamed of owning when I first started
Collet sets,revolving centres,chucks etc etc
 
thanks for your input james, did you end up going with the sherline? and do you think the sherline lathes would be able to handle most of the projects on here?

I chose something significantly larger than a Sherline. I wanted to the scope to do larger work than they can handle.

Bazmak's point re the Sieg is true. The SC4 in particular seems to have a very solid reputation and I think the SC2 is well regarded as well.

For an excellent view of what can be done check out: Clickspring on youtube. This Australian chap has an SC4 and a Sherline lathe as well as something a little larger then these two. However he seems to do most of his work on the SC4 and the Shireline. He's building a clock and the accuracy and quality he achieves is quite impressive.

Have a look about and see what people achieve with what sized tools and take a position on what you want to be able to build. That will inform what sized lathe you will want to get.

Cheers,
James.
 
Don't get sucked in by a name.

If you can, write down what you want to achieve in the long run then start to get acquainted of what is really available machinery wise.

I am not putting down Sherline at all, except for the costs involved. Almost any special tooling you will require will have to come from Sherlines own expensive collection.

I am sure you could look around and find machines at least 50% or even 100% larger at the same prices. Plus tooling for most of these machines will be within easy reach of your pocket.

There is a saying that a small machine will only make small pieces and the larger you go, the larger you can make things.

That is not necessarily so, with a bit of ingenuity larger bits can be made, but that isn't the real issue with the smaller machine. I can easily take 1 or 2mm depths of cut in one go, a smaller machine might only cut 10% of that and sometimes less, so that means 10 separate cuts to my one, taking up to 10 times as long to make the same part. Of course, as you step up the size ladder then those percentages start to rise.

People go on about quality of build and how accurate machines are, but that sort of argument can be almost eliminated now as far eastern machines have gained in quality in leaps and bounds. With a little bit of setup work in the beginning, they turn out perfectly adequate for what they are designed to do. I would put my far eastern lathe up against any of the Myfords or South bends as far as producing quality and accuracy of components made, in fact, at one time I was producing commercial items that were expected to be made within 2 tenths, my machine exceeded that expectation, time and time again.

So before jumping in at the deep end, have a good look around and see if your budget will extend to everything required, including tooling, which can easily take up another 50% over the cost of a machine.

John
 
Of course John is right. If you go back to discover what the original designer used it is quite illuminating.
It is not difficult to find out as most people will say Sparey or Westbury. Well, it is simple enough to buy 'Sparey's Amateurs Lathe book' What should be discovered is that friend Sparey didn't have a mill. Nor for that matter did Bro. Westbury. I made a Westbury mill- so there! So it was all done on a little 7" swing Myford. Westbury possibly had something even older but Professor Dennis Chaddock had a somewhat ropey old Drummond which was 'pre-war' and whilst its accuracy was -as he admits- somewhat suspect, he could grind in hundreds of thous with the Quorn he made on it.

I recall a Sparey petrol engine on a Col. C.E. Bowden model plane which had been built in the back kitchen on an even earlier old Myford. It was 1944 and the builder was making me a metering jet for a jet engine which I was making with a 6 penny drill and a 6 penny soldering iron from Woolworth's. I was 14!

The world-seemingly- has moved on a tad and I bought a smaller Myford back in January for half the price of a cheap Chinese affair- because it had far more potential- and accessories. John raises the warning about 'additional goodies'. Mine arrived in the £500 deal. Arguably, they would have cost considerably more than the deal price of £500 and the Chinese variety - with far less accessories, twice the £500.

How accurate is the old basket cage? It's half my age but somebody had kindly swopped the feed dials to verniers.

I'll get my old coat:hDe:

Norman
 
Don't get sucked in by a name.

I would put my far eastern lathe up against any of the Myfords or South bends as far as producing quality and accuracy of components.

John

X 2. The biggest factor in accurate work is the operator....

I think the main thing to consider with any machine purchase is the support from the seller. That's why I chose what I did from a shop 10 minutes from home with proven support in all states of Australia v's buying remotely on the other side of town or from interstate from unproven distributors.

After that, buy the largest lathe space and your pocket can afford is always sound advice.

With regards tooling, you don't need a lot to get going. Left and right hand turning and facing, parting blade, a boring bar and a dial indicator with magnetic stand. If you are going to use insert tooling, spend the extra up front and get ones that accept ISO tooling. If possible, get a lathe that accepts 12mm (eg. 1/2") tooling as you will have a wider range of options.
 
Just to add my 2 cents to the already good advice seen in this thread:

The Sherline and Taig lathes strike me as being similar to the watchmakers lathes of the past, that is very small lathes with limited capability or maybe better said capacity. That doesn't make them good or bad just that they are a different class of lathe. Note I said similar to a watch makers lathe. Both of these machines can be seen as modernization of this class of lathe.

One thing to highlight here is that I've seen a couple of these lathes (Sherlines or Taigs) in very modern CNC oriented machine shops. Sometimes a small lathe is just the nuts to clean up a part or handle a secondary operation. So a Sherline sitting in the same room as a Hardinge or Hass isn't uncommon. Each class of machine has its usefulness and even model engineers have been known to have a watchmakers class lathe along with a larger lathe.

As has already been pointed out accuracy is mostly the responsibility of the user. If you setup and operate the lathe correctly accuracy shouldn't be a problem. Speed will be though, a Taig simply can't remove metal like a 3 HP lath can. Power and the ability to use that power is an advantage for larger lathes.

It is possible to have a lathe that is too big for the job at hand. While you can make a bigger lathe do use about anything you can be at a huge disadvantage spindle speed wise or accessibility to the part while cutting. This is why you really need to know where you think you are going with the hobby. A Taig sized lathe might make perfect sense if everything you intend to do fits into the palm of your hand.

All of is being said I think I stand with the guys suggesting going with a larger lathe. The 7 x XX lathes are a good start in your deliberations. Another thing to realize is that al machines require adjustment and maintenance over time, learning to do this is part of being successful in this hobby.
 
Have to agree with all posts.My initial post was based on your mention
of a sherline,this indicates to me you are looking at SMALL.The sieg sc2
I would class as the next size up will do small but will also do medium,
cheap,accurate with some capacity and lots of cheaply available parts
If you want large then go for a larger machine weighing a ton or more
and needing lifting equipoment to get it in
 
its usefulness and even model engineers have been known to have a watchmakers class lathe along with a larger lathe.

Indeed! I have a Myford Super 7b, a smaller ML10 without the gearbox and a Unimat 4 clone and an 8mm watchmaker's lathe.

Merely following the suggestions of an earlier breed of successful model engineers.

N
 
thanks for the sound advice guys, i have a tendency to want the "best" equipment and in reality my skill level will be the limiting factor on the accuracy. i will be looking into sieg machines, as we have a distributor in nz. as a first project i would like i bit complicated, what websites would you recommend for plans? are there any kits that include things that you can machine with the plans such as spark plugs ect?
 

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