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Nicely done Tom. I have a question. Typically I've seen two mating parts made from dissimilar metals to prevent galling. But the use of brass eccentrics and straps seems to be fairly common from what I've seen. Is that because the motion is pretty limited so galling isn't a problem?

Cheers,
Phil
 
Phil

I understand what your saying, but I only seem to have that problem with aluminum.
It just might be that the motion is slow. I used the same material on the Mine Engine and the Factory Engine and it has not been a problem.

Tom
 
I started making the valve slide links. As you can see in the pics I first machined the location of all the holes. Then cut the arcs. After I cut the first one off, I moved the plate to the other hole on the center pin and started all over.

Tom

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Here are the final pictures of the slide link. I still need to do finish polish to remove tool marks, but that will come at a later date. I also had put sometime into making the connectors for the slide link.

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Tom
 
I've added some more pictures to show how my stevenson valve gear is progressing.

Tom


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Tom,
Outstanding work. One of the things that steam engines have over I.C. engines is all the exposed linkages and such. The quality of your work on all these pieces is exceptional. Keep up the good work.
gbritnell
 
I know how you guys like pictures, so here's some more. I was able to whip out three oil cups for the main bearings. Nothing fancy, I know that I could buy them but what the hey.

Tom

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gbritnell

Thanks for the words if inspiration. Sometimes the length of time that it takes to complete such an engine gets discouraging. responce from others give the motivation to keep going.

Thanks to all on this forum.

Tom
 
Tom,
I've been looking for an oil cup design I really like and believe I've found one. :bow: Many thanks for posting,

Cheers,
Phil
 
Tom,

Outstanding!!!! This is turning out to be one of my most favorite engines for future builds.

What size are the brass acorn nuts, and where do you source them from?


Keep up the great work!
Matt
 
Top quality workmanship Tom! :bow:

And a lot of it! :eek:

-MB
 
Now I have to go out and upgrade my equipment, sheesh....

First class work there, man. :bow:
 
Very tidy work indeed! Thm:
 
Thanks all for the great comments.

Matt - The brass Acorn nuts are 10-32 size. I just happen to get get them from the local True Value hardware store. As you can see in the pics I wasn't able to get enough and one or two of them are two piece with a brass cap. If I can't get some more I may have to make my own.

I started to make a lot of brass hex head screws to replace the socket head screws. Should look nice when completed to fill all the empty holes you see in the pictures.

Tom
 
enginemaker1 said:
Thanks all for the great comments.

Matt - The brass Acorn nuts are 10-32 size. I just happen to get get them from the local True Value hardware store. As you can see in the pics I wasn't able to get enough and one or two of them are two piece with a brass cap. If I can't get some more I may have to make my own.

I started to make a lot of brass hex head screws to replace the socket head screws. Should look nice when completed to fill all the empty holes you see in the pictures.

Tom

Thanks Tom,

I love the look of the brass fasteners!

MB hooked me up on a link yesterday.

http://monsterfastener.com/sizelist.aspx?type=Cap Nut

Matt

 
I must be crazy! I started making my brass hex head screws for my cylinder head and bearing caps. A total of 68 screws. I know I could buy them, but I just wanted to do them myself. I've done just about everything. I think they look a lot better then the socket head cap screws I had in there.

Tom

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