De Industrie 2VD5

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Gear layout design.


You've accomplished a lot in a year. You've definitely captured the style of the engine you are modeling. It looks nice.

I'm indeed aiming to get as close as possible to the look of the real one.

In the design I try to use the same approach of the building blocks such to have functional bolt and studs in the correct places.

Once it is a running engine I will add more "fake" details e.g. mimic all the remaining nuts, bolts, oil lines etc of the real one.
Main bearing plates pre-machined in a package, now mounted for line boring to bring to size and improve concentricity.

Had to stop the cnc program after each pass to remove a birdsnest. Playing with feed, speed and depth of cut did not result in chip breaking.

Soft and tough material, but nice surface finish.

Since it is now becoming relative (top) heavy and all the hours invested, I took some time to build a temporary stand for the engine. This to avoid damage during build, transport and exhibition at shows. On the base is a photo that I found in a brochure of this engine.

Once the engine is completely finished, the wooden frame between the engine and the wooden plate will be replaced by a steel one to avoid issues if the wooden plate ever slightly twists due to changes in humidity/temperature. The frame can only be designed once I know how to connect the generator and whether or not I need an auxiliary bearing on the flywheel. Such aux. bearing was relatively common on these engines to reduce stresses on crankshaft by the heavy flywheel. Hence the crankshaft will remain excessively long till that is decided. I rather cut twice than cut too much off.

Also added the tapered bushing to connect the flywheel with the crank shaft. The M4 studs go through M5 threaded holes in the bushing into M4 holes in the flywheel. This allows to pull the bushing out of the flywheel by removing the M4 studs and threading M5 screws into the bushing. These larger screws will not thread into the M4 holes in the flywheel and hence push the bushing out.

Connection rod with bronze bearings and a stainless steel rod silver brazed together.

Piston has a replacable crown to experiment with different crowns e.g. material, shape and dimensions.

Indeed, otherwise I was not able to hold it with enough clearance for the saw mandrel. Took me a while to get out of that oops situation. Soft solder worked very well.

Another option was to first braze the rod to the big end and then hold it by the rod.

Xander, It appears you soldered a plate to the big end of the rod before sawing in two?? Seems a great idea!!
Xander, that is an interesting piston design. The piston crown retains the piston pin.

I use a two piece piston also, but a different design consisting of a crown and body. Putting the two pieces together form the top ring groove. I run two rings in the groove and no second ring groove.

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