De Industrie 2VD5

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Made a medal for the skipper of the tug boat "Odilo" to thank him for supporting me in building this engine.

A friend 3D-printed me a template for the crank case covers. Next is to deburr it, cast it in heat resistant silicone and replicate it in pewter.

Size is 37x37x2 mm (1.5 x 1.5 x 0.08 inch) with 4 mm (0.16 inch) font.

Last week CNC milled some flanges, soft soldered the cooling jackets. Next is to pressure proof them with air while holding them submerged under water. No bubbles = succes.

Internally, there is a nice filled of solder. The gap visible on the outside is due to a too large chamfer/debur on the edge of the tube.

3d design of the head is also finished. First will make one prototype from aluminium before machining two from solid brass.

Looks great !
Do you intend to start the engine with compressed air ?
That is very interesting and different
And, because.... I'm very interested in ..;)

I'm not building the air start. The head design is already rather complicated as it is going to be a machined part from bar stock. A casted head would leave more options, but still, adding another functional valve in the already tiny head would give me headaches
Slow but steady. Finished the pre-machining of the dummy cilinder head. Before I go to the expensive 60mm (2.5") diameter brass, I test all machining steps on a piece of aluminium.

After turning and saw-cutting away the bulk material, the 0,0-ref point is reamed and a reference plane is milled. A sanity check with a 1:1 scale drawing to see if there is enough material for cnc milling the outside profile, hole patterns and recesses.

Once all processes are checked, the two final heads will be a matter of a few hours.


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First and second attempt to make a sand cast mold.

The white 3D printed template is 37 x 37 mm (about 1.5 x 1.5 inch).

Next is to buy pewter.


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the way to finish that material would be with a honing or lapping.
Increased the temperature of the tin to improve the details in the casting.

Now it even flows into the narrow vent holes.

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I can attest to the fact that getting crisp letters like that in a casting is very difficult, even using bound sand.

Hats off to you for that casting quality !

Some have stated that vents are not needed on a sand mold, and in some cases that may be true if the sand is coarse enough to pass any air and gasses out of the mold cavity, but I always use vent holes in the high points of the mold cavity, in the cope (top part of the sand mold), since I did get air trapped in the high point of a mold one time, and it ruined the casting.

But as you mention, metal that flows up the vent holes is a good indication that the pour temperature was hot enough, especially when pouring iron.

If you get aluminum or a similar metal too hot (I generally pour aluminum at 1,350 F), then it tends to penetrate the sand and cause a very rough surface finish.

Looks like you nailed the pour temperature, ie: not too hot and not too cold.

Any idea what your pour temperature was?

The knobs for the crankcase covers and the first cilinder head outside milled.


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Total indicated runout (TIR) well below 0.01 mm (half a thou in inch) after cutting out the 1st part of the main shaft.