Cross side extension build.
- Thread starter SmithDoor
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Dave, interesting idea and food for thought. Sorry, but rather then venture guesses, I'll ask what is the full intent?
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After I wrote the above, I did a reverse image search. The original poster listed the the below as the intent. Is it correct to assume you have the same?
I designed this new bolt on cross feed assembly to solve several issues. Some of the new features are:
(1) added a ball thrust bearing.
(2) Added 3/4" cross slide travel toward the operator with no need to machine out clearance in the saddle casting.
(3) New longer, tighter tolerance cross feed screw
(4) New bronze 3/8-20 L.H. nut with integral dowel and oil port.
(5) New slip ring micrometer dial.
(6) Backlash can be adjusted and maintained at less than .002".
(7) New hand wheel which is extended out toward the operator to minimize interference with the carriage hand wheel.
(8) Hand scraped cross slide mating surfaces improving parallelism and squareness to the lath axis. It has made a dramatic improvement to the lathe.
I am working on 5, 6, and the extend out part of #7 for my Logan 10" right now.
-----------------------------
After I wrote the above, I did a reverse image search. The original poster listed the the below as the intent. Is it correct to assume you have the same?
I designed this new bolt on cross feed assembly to solve several issues. Some of the new features are:
(1) added a ball thrust bearing.
(2) Added 3/4" cross slide travel toward the operator with no need to machine out clearance in the saddle casting.
(3) New longer, tighter tolerance cross feed screw
(4) New bronze 3/8-20 L.H. nut with integral dowel and oil port.
(5) New slip ring micrometer dial.
(6) Backlash can be adjusted and maintained at less than .002".
(7) New hand wheel which is extended out toward the operator to minimize interference with the carriage hand wheel.
(8) Hand scraped cross slide mating surfaces improving parallelism and squareness to the lath axis. It has made a dramatic improvement to the lathe.
I am working on 5, 6, and the extend out part of #7 for my Logan 10" right now.
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Richard Hed
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It's just an ordinary BP. I have shown photos of the problem elsewhere in this forum. It's the photos where the key in the motor shaft broke and gouged out the keyway. Am working on repairing the keyway but do not have proper mill to mill the key slot after I have TIGged some aluminum bronze into it. I have used a dremel tool to remove some of the Albronze but need a steadier hand to get more. When I get down enough I will use a simple file to remove the last bit. If it ain't done right, I'm sure, the whole problem will happen again. Am just hoping when I get it fixt that it will last as long as me.
It horrifies me to see how BP engineered the key for the sliding part. It is improperly engineered and I'm surprized these parts don't break after only a few months on all BPs with variable speed functions.
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Ah, sorry. Same problem, need my mill to fix my mill. It may be an unfortunate case of poor hardening/tempering. You might want to explore taking the shaft to a motor shop, may be common enough they have a routine fix.
I have an original M-head 1/2 hp motor with an old 3/4" shaft. Motor is at the shop right now seeing if the windings need to be redone.
I have an original M-head 1/2 hp motor with an old 3/4" shaft. Motor is at the shop right now seeing if the windings need to be redone.
Richard Hed
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Shelton?! I'm originally from Yelm. You have a couple HMEM members near you. One is Gunnar just over the Narrows bridge, forget where, Belfair? Meant to go visit him but as always when in the West Side, time is crammed.Ah, sorry. Same problem, need my mill to fix my mill. It may be an unfortunate case of poor hardening/tempering. You might want to explore taking the shaft to a motor shop, may be common enough they have a routine fix.
I have an original M-head 1/2 hp motor with an old 3/4" shaft. Motor is at the shop right now seeing if the windings need to be redone.
Yeah, that's the prob--need mill to mill the mill! What a conundrum. Sort of like when I had to do some brain surgery on myself.
So, you had the same prob with that crappy key design? BP should be ashamed of that, or maybe they do it for "planned obsolescence" and the cash cow problem: $$$$$ I suspect it was an error. Wonder if they have redesigned it. Wonder who owned BP when it was designed and who owns BP now. This problem only comes with the variable speed 2J-head.
If you have to rewind the motor, wouldn't it almost be cheaper to just buy a new motor? Who in your area does rewinding? I know there used to be a shop in Yakima but am sure the West Side would have several shops to do rewinds. I thimpfks that the shop here in Moses sends it out to Yakima. (Oh, excuse me, I thimpfks that may now be "Yakama"--not sure)
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Belfair is actually on the Olympic Peninsula straight up Rt. 3 from me, ~ :30 minutes.
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"Yes but . . . " I started to type up the whole issue. Not the same, just another tale of cascading problems.
I got the mill with a foot pad motor half installed on a shop made bracket to hold the motor like a face plate motor. Not so hot and the motor shaft really wasn't long enough.
Add to that the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) standards changed in 1954. 3/4" shafts were dropped so that means making a 5/8" diameter pulley bushing and needing a press. -OR- use a metric equivalent and go 3PH at the same time.
I decided on the 3PH and made a step straight key from metric to SAE for the pulley.
Mr. Bozo made a visit and jiggled my elbow resulting dropped motor and a slight wobble
. The rersult of that is enough vibration to walk the key out of the keyway. Now I'm making a thick washer to see I can prevent the key from walking out. It chattered like all get out trying to part it off. I have a lovely new to me 14" band saw but I managed to dull the blade so now that's another project.
In the mean time, I picked up an "MD" head, a M head with additional steps for use as a drill with the orginial 3/4" shaft 1/2 hp 1ph motor. Because it's appears to only have been used as a drill with the 1/2 hp motor the quill bearings probably haven't been subjected to any vertical abuse. And I had hoped solved the 3/4" shaft issue. Only to find the motor won't run.
After my troubleshooting determined the centrifical switch for the starting circuit is good, the unknown size capacitor isn't, and the windings tested with the expected contuninity, I tried some capacitors based on advice from members of the Hobby Machinist forum. When it still wouldn't start, or if hand started not come up to speed, I took it to L&L south of Olympia. Checked in with them yesterday, owner is hopeful he can salvage the 3/4" shaft motor he is very cognitive of, and he isn't quite ready to throw in the towel on the windings. Wants to do some more troubleshooting.
I'm not trying to put food on the table with the machine, so am waiting to see what L&L recomends.
Sorry for the long story.
---
"Yes but . . . " I started to type up the whole issue. Not the same, just another tale of cascading problems.
I got the mill with a foot pad motor half installed on a shop made bracket to hold the motor like a face plate motor. Not so hot and the motor shaft really wasn't long enough.
Add to that the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) standards changed in 1954. 3/4" shafts were dropped so that means making a 5/8" diameter pulley bushing and needing a press. -OR- use a metric equivalent and go 3PH at the same time.
I decided on the 3PH and made a step straight key from metric to SAE for the pulley.
Mr. Bozo made a visit and jiggled my elbow resulting dropped motor and a slight wobble
. The rersult of that is enough vibration to walk the key out of the keyway. Now I'm making a thick washer to see I can prevent the key from walking out. It chattered like all get out trying to part it off. I have a lovely new to me 14" band saw but I managed to dull the blade so now that's another project.In the mean time, I picked up an "MD" head, a M head with additional steps for use as a drill with the orginial 3/4" shaft 1/2 hp 1ph motor. Because it's appears to only have been used as a drill with the 1/2 hp motor the quill bearings probably haven't been subjected to any vertical abuse. And I had hoped solved the 3/4" shaft issue. Only to find the motor won't run.
After my troubleshooting determined the centrifical switch for the starting circuit is good, the unknown size capacitor isn't, and the windings tested with the expected contuninity, I tried some capacitors based on advice from members of the Hobby Machinist forum. When it still wouldn't start, or if hand started not come up to speed, I took it to L&L south of Olympia. Checked in with them yesterday, owner is hopeful he can salvage the 3/4" shaft motor he is very cognitive of, and he isn't quite ready to throw in the towel on the windings. Wants to do some more troubleshooting.
I'm not trying to put food on the table with the machine, so am waiting to see what L&L recomends.
Sorry for the long story.
Richard Hed
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I like long stories as long as there are a few naughty interleuds and whiter space so it's easier to read. Trouble with no space between paragraphs--difficult to read.Belfair is actually on the Olympic Peninsula straight up Rt. 3 from me, ~ :30 minutes.
---
"Yes but . . . " I started to type up the whole issue. Not the same, just another tale of cascading problems.
I got the mill with a foot pad motor half installed on a shop made bracket to hold the motor like a face plate motor. Not so hot and the motor shaft really wasn't long enough.
Add to that the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) standards changed in 1954. 3/4" shafts were dropped so that means making a 5/8" diameter pulley bushing and needing a press. -OR- use a metric equivalent and go 3PH at the same time.
I decided on the 3PH and made a step straight key from metric to SAE for the pulley.
Mr. Bozo made a visit and jiggled my elbow resulting dropped motor and a slight wobble
In the mean time, I picked up an "MD" head, a M head with additional steps for use as a drill with the orginial 3/4" shaft 1/2 hp 1ph motor. Because it's appears to only have been used as a drill with the 1/2 hp motor the quill bearings probably haven't been subjected to any vertical abuse. And I had hoped solved the 3/4" shaft issue. Only to find the motor won't run.
After my troubleshooting determined the centrifical switch for the starting circuit is good, the unknown size capacitor isn't, and the windings tested with the expected contuninity, I tried some capacitors based on advice from members of the Hobby Machinist forum. When it still wouldn't start, or if hand started not come up to speed, I took it to L&L south of Olympia. Checked in with them yesterday, owner is hopeful he can salvage the 3/4" shaft motor he is very cognitive of, and he isn't quite ready to throw in the towel on the windings. Wants to do some more troubleshooting.
I'm not trying to put food on the table with the machine, so am waiting to see what L&L recomends.
Sorry for the long story.
Yeah, Belfair, half an hour for you, for me it's 4 maybe 4 1/2 hrs. There's a bundle of HMEMmers in West WA. I wonder why youse guys don't start a yearly meetup so's all us BCer, Beavers (isn't that Oregons?), Spud Heads and Sovieters and maybe even some Montanans might have somewhere to go see some interesting engines.
Who's Bozo? I don't know much about half horse power mills. Seems awfully tiny to me. Could run it with a STEAM engine, especially nice in the winter, not so much in the summer. If you put a straight edge to the shaft, can you tell if it is bent? Sometimes it can be straightened with a brass hammer but be careful.
When I am in the Philippines I have a lot of trouble with caps. They generally are exceptionally "Chinese" in krappiness. Virtually any motor with cap start, the cap will eventually go bad. -and a new one is never the exact right size but will work. Also cheap.
What do you use for a controller?
Thanks Dave. I do OK with electricity, minor programming, but other than that it's usually an exercise resulting in losing the magic smoke.
I had a couple of motors before I moved from free treadmills, but the controllers, at least then, were the problem. The treadmill boards were fully integrated so a replacement controller was necessary. A bit pricey for off the shelf or complex enough to make the frustration wasn't worth the trouble. If you know of a reasonably simple schematic posted where follow up questions can be asked, I'll take a look at building one.
Looking for a good control board that is adorable is hard part.
There a lot that uses SCR not best .
Dave
LOL, Bozo is the clown who shows up in the shop and ham handily screws things up.
I agree with the run on paragraphs.
The mill is a Clausing 8511, shipped with a factory installed Bridgeport M Head and, best I can tell, the 1/2 motor. The biggest collet is 1/2" so a bigger motor really isn't needed. My 3 ph is actually a 2 hp but only because that's all I could find with the shaft diameter I needed.
In mid-September there is an annual smallish swap meet in South Seattle, 5963 Corson Ave. S., Seattle, WA 98108 at the Woodsmith store. Might be a good time and give people another excuse to try and attend.
Here a few photos of build
1" spacer being mill note the drill bits using to line up the flat with holes.
Here the new cross feed screw being thread Note other not finish until threading is done.
Finish threading
Now in the lathe ready to finished
1" spacer being mill note the drill bits using to line up the flat with holes.
Here the new cross feed screw being thread Note other not finish until threading is done.
Finish threading
Now in the lathe ready to finished
Coming along nicely!
Good deal!
Richard Hed
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I wants to see that.
