Cringle steam turbine genset

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darwenguy

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A bit more done on the turbines, made the drive pullys.
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I also drilled and tapped for the oil hole in the bearing housing but no pics of that.
Then the parts were cleaned and assembled to test run. The bearings were first pressed into the housing.
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And the assembled turbines so far..
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I did take a video of some test but il try get the link sorted now.
More tomorrow.
 

skyline1

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Hi Luke

The links do work and so do the turbines

It'll be interesting to see how they do on steam probably even better if the nozzles are right

You have built these at amazing speed and great accuracy, all credit to you they are a splendid little jobs.

Nest Regards Mark
 

darwenguy

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Hi Luke

The links do work and so do the turbines

It'll be interesting to see how they do on steam probably even better if the nozzles are right

You have built these at amazing speed and great accuracy, all credit to you they are a splendid little jobs.

Nest Regards Mark
Thanks mark, i think they do run a little better on steam and quieter.
I should have them finished befor the end of the week, thats the perks of running my own bussiness i work seven days a week haha.
More to come later.
Regards
Luke
 

darwenguy

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Made the exhaust pipes up this morning.
First trimed up and polished.
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A little cosmetic flare is easily formed by spinning.
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Then soldered and cleaned up.
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Next i made the lamp, a actually have these already made up as i make a lot of these lamps to sell on there own.But some pics of the process with some scrap parts for showing the set ups.
The lamp post and shade is supplied pre formed in the kit and just need a little fettling and solder.
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The brass base casting.
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First faced off the bottom then drill through 5mm.
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Then a 5m screw and arbor is used to turn the top side and tapered section.
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The holes are then drilled, and the center hole opend up to 6mm.
i usually make these lamps in batches of 30 so simple jigs and fixtures speed things up for me.
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The finished base and lamp after clean up.
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Next onto the base castings, i aleady have the dynamo's made up as i usually make them in batches of 30 also. Bit will add some pics of the setups.
 

darwenguy

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Hi all, i finished up most of the machining today, next part to show is the dynamo, its basicaly just a small dc motor hidden in a fancy casting.
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First mill the bottom flat.
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Then bore out the center to fit the motor.
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I then machined the pully for the dynamo.
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The pullys are drilled and tapped for the grub screw.
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The base was then marked out and drilled for fixing holes.
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And all the parts finished so far.
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And all the parts ready for painting tomorrow. I still need to make the steam condensate drain cock, these will be made while the paint dries. More to come tomorrow.
Regards
Luke
 
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darwenguy

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Hi the motors i get from here..
The dynamo model i make myself and is sold on ebay and my website here..

Regards
Luke
 

Steamchick

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Hi the motors i get from here..
The dynamo model i make myself and is sold on ebay and my website here..

Regards
Luke
Thanks Luke. I am looking for something to replace a home-made generator which is part of a model made in the 1920s. I fitted a motor from a Black n Decker dust buster, but the reciprocating engine is far to slow to generate using the 12000 rpm motor I have!
I'll look at the specs of this and see how it compares.
I like the machining simplicity of the turbine. I wonder if Santa will buy me a kit later in the year?
Ta,
K2
 

darwenguy

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Thanks Luke. I am looking for something to replace a home-made generator which is part of a model made in the 1920s. I fitted a motor from a Black n Decker dust buster, but the reciprocating engine is far to slow to generate using the 12000 rpm motor I have!
I'll look at the specs of this and see how it compares.
I like the machining simplicity of the turbine. I wonder if Santa will buy me a kit later in the year?
Ta,
K2
Thanks i did a bit of resurch and tests to find this motor. It is relativly slow rpm but also quite low voltage so still needs a decent rpm to produce voltage.
Running them from the engine flywheel is best to gain the speed increase.
They are more suited to the smaller engines and run well with the mamod and wilesco type models. And they are probably about the same performance as there plastic dynamos.
 

darwenguy

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Hi all, today i finished up the machining of the turbine drain cocks and finished painting the parts.
Got the parts primed this morning after masking up all the required faces. Etch primer is esential on aluminium to get a lasting finish.
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Then onto the drain cock.
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First machine and thread m5, then i use a simple homemade form tool to produce the profile as i make a few of these, but a parting tool and small file works the same.
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Then a little file and sand paper to finish shaping on the lathe. Then the 3mm hole is drilled through and opend up with the taper drill.
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The valve core is then turned to the same taper angle and tapped m3.
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And check fit and lap into valve body.
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The body can now be parted off and reversed using the m5 thread to hold in the lathe. The valve core is fitted in the open position and drilled through 2.5mm.
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And the finished drain cock.
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The drain cocks are functional and used to remove the condensate untill the turbine warms up on steam.

Then the parts got a coat of paint and thats everything ready for assembly tomorrow :)
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Richard Hed

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Hi all, today i finished up the machining of the turbine drain cocks and finished painting the parts.
Got the parts primed this morning after masking up all the required faces. Etch primer is esential on aluminium to get a lasting finish.
View attachment 124733
Then onto the drain cock.
View attachment 124734
First machine and thread m5, then i use a simple homemade form tool to produce the profile as i make a few of these, but a parting tool and small file works the same.
View attachment 124735
Then a little file and sand paper to finish shaping on the lathe. Then the 3mm hole is drilled through and opend up with the taper drill.
View attachment 124736
The valve core is then turned to the same taper angle and tapped m3.
View attachment 124737
And check fit and lap into valve body.
View attachment 124738
The body can now be parted off and reversed using the m5 thread to hold in the lathe. The valve core is fitted in the open position and drilled through 2.5mm.
View attachment 124739
And the finished drain cock.
View attachment 124740
The drain cocks are functional and used to remove the condensate untill the turbine warms up on steam.

Then the parts got a coat of paint and thats everything ready for assembly tomorrow :)
View attachment 124741
Hey, thanx for that on the drain cocks. I've been intending to make some -- good to see how it's done.
 

skyline1

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Hi Luke

Those drain cocks are a little model in themselves. They are rather more precise and intricate that they seem. Well done, making little valves like this can be a tricky job I've made a fair few myself,

On my turbine I don't actually have one, just a small drain hole to allow condensate to run out.

As turbines rely on velocity not pressure, very little steam if any escapes from it in operation, and it doesn't matter much if it does.

However this does mean that you tend to get a bit of condensate in the "basement pump room" so I think i will fit one of your drain cocks to mine so I can pipe it away (just solder a little drain pipe in the end of it). Less cleaning up after a run.

Do you sell them BTW as I think I'm going to be too busy over the next few months to find time to make one.

Best Regards Mark
 

darwenguy

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Hi Luke

Those drain cocks are a little model in themselves. They are rather more precise and intricate that they seem. Well done, making little valves like this can be a tricky job I've made a fair few myself,

On my turbine I don't actually have one, just a small drain hole to allow condensate to run out.

As turbines rely on velocity not pressure, very little steam if any escapes from it in operation, and it doesn't matter much if it does.

However this does mean that you tend to get a bit of condensate in the "basement pump room" so I think i will fit one of your drain cocks to mine so I can pipe it away (just solder a little drain pipe in the end of it). Less cleaning up after a run.

Do you sell them BTW as I think I'm going to be too busy over the next few months to find time to make one.

Best Regards Mark
Thanks mark,
They are a little fidly to do but would have cost around £50! to purchase so well worth a few hours of time.
They are quite neccessery on this model, when its cold the condensate floods the rotor and causes huge drag! It doesnt take long to warm up then the drain is shut or condensate just dribnles out.
I usually hold a rag over the exhaust for a few seconds and this forces the condensate out instantly and the revs increase dramaticly.
I dont sell these on there own, there not honestly a job im that fond off making to be honest jist make them when i have too.
Regards
Luke
 

Steamchick

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Hi Luke. I like the perfectionist in you that makes tapered cocks. A design from pre-machining days when cocks went into barrels, and tapers were common because you could make them with a tapered knife blade in a hole. Made of wood, it was easier to make tapers than parallels. Later in history, we get machines, machinists - then accountants. The accountants wanted straight plugs (parallel) in parallel holes because that's what a cheap jobber could make with a machine. (And the accountant could get rid of the expensive machinist!). So that's what you can buy for gas taps nowadays! Leaks 'n all. But good enough if you can tolerate a drip?
Incidentally, why do you need to shut-off the drain? Surely you could arrange a clever venturi in the exhaust pipe to suck condensate out with the exhaust steam? -Then to the condenser? I would imagine the pressure at the condensate drain is the same as in the exhaust? I can't understand why you need to shut it of, when you want it to replenish the boiler? Please teach me.... I must be missing something?
K2
 

darwenguy

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Hi Luke. I like the perfectionist in you that makes tapered cocks. A design from pre-machining days when cocks went into barrels, and tapers were common because you could make them with a tapered knife blade in a hole. Made of wood, it was easier to make tapers than parallels. Later in history, we get machines, machinists - then accountants. The accountants wanted straight plugs (parallel) in parallel holes because that's what a cheap jobber could make with a machine. (And the accountant could get rid of the expensive machinist!). So that's what you can buy for gas taps nowadays! Leaks 'n all. But good enough if you can tolerate a drip?
Incidentally, why do you need to shut-off the drain? Surely you could arrange a clever venturi in the exhaust pipe to suck condensate out with the exhaust steam? -Then to the condenser? I would imagine the pressure at the condensate drain is the same as in the exhaust? I can't understand why you need to shut it of, when you want it to replenish the boiler? Please teach me.... I must be missing something?
K2
Hi, i just like the look of this style valve, and there quicker to make than a needle type valve with gland an all.
The valve is shut to stop condensate from pooling and making a mess.
I like your ideas but this is just a simple model toy no need to make it over complicated and i also have to make the kits and 'my' drawing comprehendable and at a resonable price. These models are well liked by the mamod and wilesco collectors.
My kits are ideal for begineers to the hoby, all metric so cheep tooling and most can be made on the generic mini lathes.
I would like to make a more detailed display model (like the one by mark) with a full mini power plant style set up, il find the time one day.
Regards
Luke
 

darwenguy

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Hi all, i got the gensets finoshed today.
All the fasteners and electrical components are supplied with the kit.
Two wires are first solderd to the dynamo.
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And a conector block is glued under the base to conect the lamp to the dynamo.
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a few screws and thats about it done.
And the finished models...
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Thanks for following along guys. Now onto the next job, il try to get a video link posted soon.
Regards
Luke
 

darwenguy

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Heres a short video of the genset runing on about 20psi of air. I do still need to add the oil cups on these.
 

Steamchick

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Hi Luke. What speed does the turbine achieve at 20psi on air?
I understand your "marketing strategy" - keep it simple, ensure guaranteed success by users, look good, and a reasonable price! I think a straight valve stem would probably do the job adequately. I buy caravan gas valves - the 90 degree on-off type. I used to get them 1/8 " BSP size for £10, but they probably cost double that now. I'll try and find a source....
K2
 

Steamchick

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Have a look for "1/8 inch BSPP Mini ball valve" from "Pipe Fittings Direct". Only priced between £2- £3. For those who can use such a thing instead of making a beautiful ball shaped tapered pin valve.
Unfortunately they have a plated body, instead of brass....
But there is one with 1/8" BSP Male one end and Female t'other...
But may be too big for your model?
K2
 
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