Counterweighting with "heavy metal"

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methuselah1

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Much as I love the music genre, this is a quite serious question, as some designs, the "Matador 10cc" in this case calls out for "heavy metal" inserts to be incorporared into the crank counterweight. If the designer was referring to tungsten, I'm sure the drawings would have called tungsten out.

I remember, years ago, hearing about GEC Heavy Metal; I have also read of UK firms that use "heavy metal" when balancing automotive V8 crankshafts. I'm guessing this is either the same stuff, or similar.

Can anyone help me identify this mystery substance, and suggest a source of supply for small quantities in the UK? (The "Matador" is a native design, after all...)

-Andrew UK
 
I got some small pieces from an engine reconditioning shop
 
Would old tungsten darts do the job ? Tungsten is a dense metal with an SG of 19.25 no idea what the sg of Mallory metal is ?

Edit: Just googled it and Mallory metal is a Tungsten alloy so it would appear that an old dart could be usable though you are obviously limited by the diameter of the dart :)
Paul
 
Did a search on GEC heavy alloy
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and came up with this
I have used copper tungsten in the past as it is easier to machine than pure tungsten
TUNGSTEN COPPER - DATASHEET - High Performance Special Alloys (futurealloys.co.uk)
Paul
 
Many two stroke motorbikes use hard lead insert in holes drilled in the crankshaft shoulders. The same type found in old wheel weights, very easy to cast and machine, with a fairly good strength.
 
Many two stroke motorbikes use hard lead insert in holes drilled in the crankshaft shoulders. The same type found in old wheel weights, very easy to cast and machine, with a fairly good strength.

My 1910 Brush single cylinder runabout has a timing gear with space in it for it to be filled with lead, and then drilled as appropriate to set the balance. This engine used the "Lanchester" balance method, which means it was EXTREMELY smooth for a one cylinder engine. This was done by balancing the engine piston and crank, and then adding a SECOND gear, driven off the main crank, that rotated in the opposite direction, and countered the forces generated by the piston and crank assembly. This car was designed by Alonson P. Brush, who was an EXCELLENT engineer. He not only designed the Brush Runabout, he also designed the first Cadillac, and Cadillac were still paying him royalties as late as 1909 for patents of his, that Cadillat used on all their single cylinder models.
 
I have used lead, brass, zinc and modern car wheels use Bismuth I think? As per fishing weights, where lead has been banned for a few decades.
A Tyre shop can probably let you have some old "used" balance eights for " not a lot". Should melt, and if you make a plasticine (or wax) shape, cast in plaster of paris then remove the plasticine (or wax) the "heavy metal" will pour into the plaster mould to make the weight you want. (Works for me).
For my small steam engines, I have found that imperfect flywheels always have a heavy spot, so I deliberately locate that opposite the crank - and have nicely, or partly, balanced some engines that way.
K2
 
Carbide from discarded endmills have relative density of 14 I seem to remember and it is easy to get it cut to a disc by EDM wire sparking.
Just needs a little calculating
 
Find an old shooting range. I used to mine the lead projectiles from the backstop at our school shooting range, and melted them down at home on the stove. I don't seem to have had any bad reaction yet.
 
Thank you all for the advice! Lead ain't a problem, I've loads of it... But I'll be ringing engine recon shops tomorrow...
 
Ytrose2- I made lead soldiers when I was a kid, old saucepan on a stove, just like you. Dunno, but I'm sure somwon wud hav sed if I was geting stupider...
 
I have used lead, brass, zinc and modern car wheels use Bismuth I think? As per fishing weights, where lead has been banned for a few decades.
A Tyre shop can probably let you have some old "used" balance eights for " not a lot". Should melt, and if you make a plasticine (or wax) shape, cast in plaster of paris then remove the plasticine (or wax) the "heavy metal" will pour into the plaster mould to make the weight you want. (Works for me).
For my small steam engines, I have found that imperfect flywheels always have a heavy spot, so I deliberately locate that opposite the crank - and have nicely, or partly, balanced some engines that way.
K2
Even a wood mold will work for lead, as the melting temperature should be around 250-300°C. Old tin(lead) soldier were cast in rubber molds
 
Even a wood mold will work for lead, as the melting temperature should be around 250-300°C. Old tin(lead) soldier were cast in rubber molds

My father used to make "Shad Dart" lures the old fashioned way: carve a wooden peg the shape you want, poke it numerous times in a clay pot filled with packed earth (i.e., dirt), place the head of a hook in each cavity, fill with melted lead (from various sources) and let them cool.
 
I don't suppose depleted uranium is available :eek:
Dan.
 
Lead has a bad name .
I still have hundreds of pounds of lead and babbit .
It is still for bearings. If look how made machine tools before 1900 they poured the bearings. Boring not need. It made building simple it is a forgotten art of building today.

Dave
 

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