Building my "Radford Red Deere" Finished w/ Video

[Metal Butcher]

During the course of building my last engine I became interested in cfellows John Deere engine. Radfordc expressed a great amount of interest as well. With build information provided by cfellows, he set out to build his own version and provided us with detailed drawings. We should all be grateful to radfordc, for the time and effort he spent producing a first class set of drawings that a beginner, like me, can follow.

I decided to name my version the “Radford Red Deere” since I will be using the plans he provided as a basis for my build. You may have noticed that most of my recent engines have been painted a greenish color. I think I’m done with that color! Brace yourself for the onslaught of red colored engines! I’m amazed at how many engines I was actually able to build using only one can of spray paint!

Since machining crankshafts is my Achilles' heel of engine building, I decided to get it out the way by making it first. In my pursuit of different methods for producing crankshafts, I decided to make one up from separate pieces assembled with Loc-tite and pinning. The central shaft was cut out between the webs after the pinning was completed, this assured a straight crankshaft. After a bit of filing and sanding it was parkerized. As you can see in the photo, the pins and shafts did not accept the parkerizing (as expected) since they were made from stainless steel.

Below is a photo of the finished crankshaft, I’m off and running.

Link to cfellows John Deere design, plans drawn and provided by radfordc: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4940.0

-MB

 

[radfordc]

Rick, I certainly don't deserve any credit for the design...all I did was "reverse engineer" Chuck's engine from the pictures, drawings, and notes in his original thread.

I made a couple of fixes to the plans.
1. The valve drawing should have specified 3/8" OD o-rings....not 1/2".
2. I fixed the crank drawing with a couple of changes. First, I added the 1/8" stub on the end of the crank to accept the pinon gear. Second, the crank as it was drawn may be hard to insert into the crankcase. The hole in the end of the case is 1.140 and the crank is 1.145 wide. I trimmed the unneeded "arms" off the crank at each end. Makes it easy to insert with just a little jiggleing.

Charlie

 

[rudydubya]

Nice work MB, I like the approach you've taken for the crankshaft. My one and only crankshaft so far has been for my Upshur, turned out of a single piece of bar stock. After that experience, I'm ready to try a new technique for my next one.

Rudy

 

[Metal Butcher]

Nice work MB, I like the approach you've taken for the crankshaft. My one and only crankshaft so far has been for my Upshur, turned out of a single piece of bar stock. After that experience, I'm ready to try a new technique for my next one.

Rudy

Thanks Rudy. A lot of the published model engineers have used and advocated this method. Its a neat and quick way to archive an accurate crank. I drilled and reamed all three webs in one set up by stacking them in a mill vise. I marked two sides on each piece to assure assembly in the same position. The assembly was done on a flat tool plate. If the webs were profiled a simple 3 sided u shaped jig would do the trick during assembly and drilling for dowel or expansion pins. The pieces were loc-tited one web at a time with all rods in place throughout the process. Spacing was done carefully, and each joint allowed to set up a bit before proceeding to the next joint. The following morning I mounted the tool plate in the mill and drilled through for the 1/16" dowel pins and pressed them in with loc-tite. The tricky part is cutting out the extra rod material without scaring up the webs. I could have stayed a little further away with the hack saw and finished up with a small end mill, or file. A single throw crank would probably be a "walk in the park."

-MB

 

[Metal Butcher]

Rick, I certainly don't deserve any credit for the design...all I did was "reverse engineer" Chuck's engine from the pictures, drawings, and notes in his original thread.

I made a couple of fixes to the plans.
1. The valve drawing should have specified 3/8" OD o-rings....not 1/2".
2. I fixed the crank drawing with a couple of changes. First, I added the 1/8" stub on the end of the crank to accept the pinon gear. Second, the crank as it was drawn may be hard to insert into the crankcase. The hole in the end of the case is 1.140 and the crank is 1.145 wide. I trimmed the unneeded "arms" off the crank at each end. Makes it easy to insert with just a little jiggleing.

Charlie

I understand what you are saying about The "John Deere" being Chucks (cfellows) design. I should have been clearer on that point. And I apologize to Chuck for my oversight in not giving him credit for being the original designer. I thought I did in my first post.
And I also feel that you deserve credit for your hardwork and needed know-how to produce the drawings that will guide my build along with others. Call it reverse engineering or what ever you like.

And I'll get the full credit for driving every one nuts after they see it painted red! What!, a red JD?

My crank throws are 1.250" long, and I knew the box opening was 1.140". A self inflicted challenge that I can't wait to overcome! Got aspirin?

-Mb

 

[cfellows]

Not to worry about who get's credit for my design. I'm just gratified to see so much interest in the engine and I'm equally grateful to Charlie for the nice drawings so others can build it.

MB, I can't believe you are making a red model! Back in the 1950's, Farmall tractors were the chief competitor of John Deere. And guess what color Farmall's were?

http://www.walnutacresfarm.com/images/Farmall%20H%20After.jpg

Just kidding, of course. A red JD engine would be nice looking, however unusual!

Chuck

 

[Metal Butcher]

Not to worry about who get's credit for my design. I'm just gratified to see so much interest in the engine and I'm equally grateful to Charlie for the nice drawings so others can build it.

MB, I can't believe you are making a red model! Back in the 1950's, Farmall tractors were the chief competitor of John Deere. And guess what color Farmall's were?

http://www.walnutacresfarm.com/images/Farmall%20H%20After.jpg

Just kidding, of course. A red JD engine would be nice looking, however unusual!

Chuck

Oh no! I'm confused again!!!! Farm tractors? Farm All?

I thought I was building a 2 cylinder stationary engine and "John Deere" look alike????

I have never been on a farm. I watched the TV series called "Green Acres" but it didn't teach me anything about John Deere or Farm All, and especially farming!

I looked on the internet and only found single cylinder JDs' with a square water box above the single cylinder, furthering my confusion!

I need to take two aspirins and lay down for awhile. :-X

-mb

 

[cfellows]

While John Deere did make a one cylinder, hit n miss stationary engine like this:

http://www.stationaryengine.org/Rallies%202005/Woolpit/john_deere_woolpit_2005.jpg

my engine design is from the old two cylinder tractors. The engine was positioned horizontally, with the flywheel and the cranshaft toward the rear of the tractor and the cylinders pointing toward the front of the tractor. The crankshaft throws were 180 degrees apart to reduce the vibration. One of the selling features of the old John Deeres was the fact that you could ride them in the field all day without being worn out by the vibration.

Here you can see a model of an old John Deere tractor somewhat torn down:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/images/KiefferDeere3.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Kieffer1.htm&usg=__2VbBwyBdgoBOvW-BdFTSC71zLnc=&h=683&w=800&sz=132&hl=en&start=120&tbnid=P-2tmctfgFTYfM:&tbnh=122&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Djohn%2Bdeere%2Bd%2Bengine%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D108

Chuck

 

[cfellows]

Here is a picture of an old John Deere tractor engine which as been removed and converted to a stationary engine. Actually, the tractor was removed from the engine! This is a two cylinder engine, you can only see the cylinder in front.

I had considered including the radiator, gas tank, and other fittings like this in my model, and may still do so at some point.

Chuck

 

[Metal Butcher]

Chuck. The photo of Jerry Kieffer's 1/8 scale shows a flywheel very similar to the one you used.

Is that style the one they normally used, or was it used only for a short period. Is there a reason for JD using the slot between two holes crossing the central shaft bore?

How did you make yours? Meaning the slot.

Part of the theme song from the TV series "Green acres".

"Green acres is the place to be. Farm living is the life for me. Land speadin out so far and wide. Keep Manhattan, just give me that countryside."- Oliver Wendell Douglas

-MB

 

[cfellows]

The flywheel on my model is the standard that was used from the 1930's thru the 1950's. On the full size tractors, there were two bolts in the back of the flywheel, on either side of the crankshaft, that went across the slots and tightened the flywheel onto the shaft. The slot and two holes on either end provided just enough give for the bolts to pull the slot slightly together on the splined crankshaft.

On my model, I just used a split collar to hold the flywheel on. The slot and holes on my model are cosmetic to make it look like the real thing.

 

[Metal Butcher]

1) Today I started on the crankcase and cylinder blocks. A block of 6061 aluminum was clamped into my 4" x 6" band saw and rough cut about .050" over the final dimensions.

2) I cut both the crank case and cylinder block from one large piece of aluminum. The photo shows the pieces rough cut. Then they were face milled to - .000'' + .002'' of the plan dimensions using my mill/drill.

3) The crank case block was hollowed out using a 1/2" regular length center cutting end mill. Once I got past the length of the cutting edges (flutes) it was necessary to stay further away from the scribed lines. After about 1 hour of eye balling and hand cranking, the cavity was roughed out.

If you decide to build your own engine I recommend considering the use of 2" X 2" x 2-3/8" long aluminum tube either 3/16" or 1/4" wall thickness. This will reduce the tedious (I'm whipped) boring and milling required by the use of a solid piece of material.

4)The final cuts were very light using a 2" long flute 5/16" hi-helix end mill. One wall ended up at .187", two are .002" over, one .003'' over, and the front wall .006'' over. Not exactly precision work.. but since it was an eye ball job, that's not too bad and it will have to do. The large internal variances shouldn't matter.

As a precautionary measure to protect my sanity, all guests will be required to check (leave) all measuring instruments, including but not limited to, dial calipers, micrometers, rulers, measuring devises of any-and-all types at the door before entering the premises! No exceptions! :big:

-MB ;D

 

[RobWilson]

Great finish on the inside of the crankcase MB
Rob

 

[Metal Butcher]

Great finish on the inside of the crankcase MB
Rob

Thanks Rob! I believe that the high-helix end mills give a much better finish than a standard end mill on aluminum. High helix drills also seem to work better in aluminum by removing chips more efficiently and leaving a better finish.

Edit: The correct industry terminology for the drills (I call them high helix) is FAST SPIRAL.
On the end mill I said HIGH HELIX and that was the correct terminology.
-MB

 

[radfordc]

Nice job! There's another thing I forgot to tell you. You need to mill a clearance inside the crankcase for the connecting rod big ends. It doesn't take much...probably only .050 or so. The clearance needs to be in the bottom of the crankcase, approximately 3/8" to 1/2" down from the open end. Here is how I did it...I'm embarrassed at the quality of my work...looks like I machined it with a chain saw.

Charlie

 

[Metal Butcher]

Charlie your work looks good to me, inside a case doesn't matter, thanks for the heads up on the needed piston rod clearance.

Did you notice the larger (longer) length webs on the crank I made?

I might be in serious trouble with that being a bigger clearance issue! Seems it won't fit into the crank case! From end to end (corner to corner) the webs are 1.308"!

Chain saw, grinder, axe, meat cleaver, this is where the "butcher" in me shines! :big:

"I'll just trim off the fat," said the butcher as he sharpened his knife.

-MB

 

[cfellows]

If you decide to build your own engine I recommend considering the use of 2" X 2" x 2-3/8" long aluminum tube either 3/16" or 1/4" wall thickness. This will reduce the tedious (I'm whipped) boring and milling required by the use of a solid piece of material.

MB,

When I built my JD engine, I used 2" x 2" Square Steel Tubing. I used steel, because I had it, and so I could silver solder the end plates on. Unfortunately, the stock I had on hand was only .065" thick, so I had to silver solder a 1/8" plate on one side for the cylinder block to bolt to.

Chuck

 

[Metal Butcher]

Chuck, I also used the material I had on hand. It only makes sense, since ordering new materials is a very expensive proposition. But, for those that must order materials for a build like this the square aluminum is a reasonably priced choice.
Seems to me that the aluminum tube idea would eliminate brazing and building up the wall thickness when steel tube is used, and also eliminate a lot of machining and boring needed for a crank case machined from solid material
The square aluminum tube would need to be shorter than 2-3/8" since 3/16" (or 1/4") side plates would make up the difference. The side plates would be bolted on in the four corners and bored for the crank and cam bearings. This would also eliminate the need for the large bores that accommodate the original round side covers housing the bearings, and also the round side covers them selves. This would greatly simplify and speed up construction time for beginners like me.

The only draw back I see at this point is the style of the engine might suffer from the additional simplicity.

-MB

 

[radfordc]

3) The crank case block was hollowed out using a 1/2" regular length center cutting end mill. Once I got past the length of the cutting edges (flutes) it was necessary to stay further away from the scribed lines. After about 1 hour of eye balling and hand cranking, the cavity was roughed out.

If you decide to build your own engine I recommend considering the use of 2" X 2" x 2-3/8" long aluminum tube either 3/16" or 1/4" wall thickness. This will reduce the tedious (I'm whipped) boring and milling required by the use of a solid piece of material.

-MB ;D

The trick is to remove as much material as possible by drilling before starting to mill. I drilled as many 1/2" holes as I could fit into the block of aluminum to be removed. It still looked like an aluminum snow storm hit the shop.

Charlie

 

[Metal Butcher]

The drilling would save time. I decided against it based or my uncanny ability to bury drill bits that size.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4402.0

When I look at that picture It makes me laugh!

Charlie, have you ever used a roughing end mill?

Can I assume they remove material faster?

Yesterday I bought a 2 lb. coffee can full of 1/2" M-42 tin-coated double-end 2 flute end mills and there were 6pcs of 3/4" tin coated M-42 roughing end mills in the bottom of the can. Since the milling on the c-case was finished It was too late to try one out.

-MB