- Joined
- Dec 28, 2008
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#1 While I was building Elmer's # 52 Twin Cylinder Wobbler with reverse, I made a few extra parts that would become a simple single cylinder version. After posting the completed #52 I went down to the shop yesterday and today to finish up the this minor project. I just love the single cylinder wobbler's that are posted on this forum by other members, and wanted to join in on the fun. I used an inexpensive cast aluminum flywheel fro PM Research to finish off the build. I used the identical port pattern from the #52 build and turned it upside down. The cylinder and piston rod assembly is identical. No reverse was needed since the intake connection can be reversed to change the rotation of the flywheel.
The #52 Reversible Vertical Twin Wobbler build is finished. I provided the link for those that may have missed the final picture and video post.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=7529.60
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6 I drilled and tapped the 1/4" pivot on the cylinder for a 1/8" stud threaded on both ends. I machined a step on the brass keeper to center the spring up against the column, and machined a threaded nut with an identical step to keep the .240 O.D. spring centered.
#7 Its difficult to see the inward taper that starts half way up the column and ends at the faux bearing cap. I need to replace the crank bearing that is loose and gives the flywheel quite a bit of wobble. I checked the #52 build and after 2 hours of running time there is no play at all in the identical slithered bronze bearings. I have enough room to make a longer bearing from '660 bearing brass' that will give a wider support area to the crank shaft.
And no! I did not forget the video. :big:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_XrXlYgA-c[/ame]
-MB
The #52 Reversible Vertical Twin Wobbler build is finished. I provided the link for those that may have missed the final picture and video post.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=7529.60
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6 I drilled and tapped the 1/4" pivot on the cylinder for a 1/8" stud threaded on both ends. I machined a step on the brass keeper to center the spring up against the column, and machined a threaded nut with an identical step to keep the .240 O.D. spring centered.
#7 Its difficult to see the inward taper that starts half way up the column and ends at the faux bearing cap. I need to replace the crank bearing that is loose and gives the flywheel quite a bit of wobble. I checked the #52 build and after 2 hours of running time there is no play at all in the identical slithered bronze bearings. I have enough room to make a longer bearing from '660 bearing brass' that will give a wider support area to the crank shaft.
And no! I did not forget the video. :big:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_XrXlYgA-c[/ame]
-MB
:bow:
