Bazmak-Making the acute tool sharpening system

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The biggest dia silver steel I have is 3/8" but I need 10/11mm dia
Intend to find a spare drill and make 2 buttons from the shank and then harden up.Done it before,works ok and 15mm or so off the drill wont
spoil it.The only brass I could get was 1/2 x1/8" but it needs to be 10mm
wide.May make it
a touch wider say 11mm Nice little exercise,drgs are good.Will see how it all works.You were correct the 180g wheels are too coarse looks like a ploughed field under a loupe.Just arrived from china 3 x 6" diamond discs hope to fit on the end of the 6 x 1" diamond wheel.300,600 and 3000g for polishing the tools
will keep you posted. Regards barry
 
Hi Barry
Whilst trying to sort out a lot of things, along with the BSO thing for John, I came across an interesting old discussion in Home Shop Machinist about Sharpening Carbide Scraper Blades . It was 2005 but it is still accessible on the 'net. I'm involved!

Again, in the same file, I came across comparative references to diamond pastes and grit sizes. One- there are lots- was called Sharpening made easy and gave usable lists from various firms etc. Not in my download to you in the past.

Sadly, I'm still in this dreadful time warp of having to get my aged head around 'money' and death.
Cheers

N
 
Just arrived from china 3 no 6" dia diamond discs.I made an alun adaptor and fitted the 240 g to the side of the 150 dia wheel.The plt was
2mm big so ran my angle grinder over the corner.Looks promising so will do the other 2 as well 240,600 and 3000g
 
Made 2 buttons from an old 1/2"drill and hardened.Finished the 4 brass arms to size and assembled.I try to avoid using hardened buttons as they wear
heavily on files,but decided to on this occation
 
You are doing a great job on that Baz, proves that you don't need the complete kit from them.

Are those the diamond laps that I suggested to you some time ago?

I find they are really good and very cheap, throw away after they become worn or clogged, without water cleaning and cooling you should get at least a year, maybe two. Maybe you could just have a water cup and brush to paint the surface as you are using them.

John
 
Yes John they are the diamond discs you recommended Thanks they are a good buy and ideal for what I need
Although I am diversifying from this thread its all connected and others may find interesting.Having problems with balancing the 6"x1" diamond wheel
so checked the diamond face for concentric.The face was 4 thou out but the edge was 12 thou out.Decided to try and improve it before attempting to balance,lot of work as the pictures show,trying to hold 6' dia true to face and edge when my biggest chuck is only 5".And after all that I can honestly say
there was NO improvement,however I did find it easier to balance and is just
about acceptable.Next is to finish the pantograph arm
Also I have been playing about with grinder and table orientations on
a base board.My 3 main working positions are now finalized
1- Left hand side of grinder (face of cupwheel)
2-Right hand side of grinder(face of diamond disc)
3-Front right hand side (face of 6"x1" grinding wheel)
Rather than the grinder being fixed and the table able to move to 3 posns
I think it may better to fix the table position and rotate the grinder so
will look at making a steel frame hopefully to suit
 
Hi Barry,

Looking good. I like the idea of using the diamond laps secured to the outside of the wheel like that.

I've also noted the way you have tried to balance the wheel. Trueing it up the way you have should really have been done first. I've attached a picture with some notes that I hope might help you understand what is going on.

Appologies if I'm preaching to the choir. It is a fair few years since I did anything with dynamic balancing. In those days it was LVDT's now its accelerometers, but the principles are the same.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86794&stc=1&d=1485513953

Balancing.jpg
 
yes trueing the wheel first did make it easier for balancing.Fitting cap screws thru the wheel web does tend to balance evenly both sides.I also thought maybe heavier weights to the outer rim both sides may give a flywheel effect and reduce proportionally the weight diff/out out of balance.If for instance I fit full circ weights to both sides of the web and then drill/reduce weight to balance up
Food for thought
 
Hi Barry,

Putting full circle discs on both sides will strengthen the wheel web and increase the rotating mass conciderably. That may or may not help with the out of balance vibration depending upon how bad the original out of balance is. Get the wheel as close to balanced as you can first. It might pay you to visit a car tyre place and get a hold of some of the self adhesive lead weights that they use to balance alloy wheels. If they are the same as in the UK they will come in different sizes with the weight marked on them.

If you feel like experimenting with dynamic balanceing the attached picture will show you a basic method. What the drawing doesn't say is that the strobe should be triggered from the peak output of the LDVT.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86803&stc=1&d=1485600605

The output from the LDVT will increase with increasing out of balance. This technique was used from about the 60's and improved in later years by the use of strain gauges and accelerometers. As far as I know these are still used today, though computerisation has allowed more intense analysis.

HTH.

NOTE: The drawing is a modified redraw from work that I did in the late 60's.

Wheel_Balancer.jpg
 
I might be stealing Baz's thunder, if so I apologise.

We Brits have a couple of European( German?) firms who are making British supermarkets think. They are Aldi and Lidl. Of course, they are also 'across Europe' and elsewhere.

The latest offer which takes my fancy is next Sunday's offer of a Parkside Disc Sander for £29.99. There is a cheapish drilling machine etc but 'Got one'! from them already.

I've no wish for a sanding machine for wood but it seems to have great possibilities for honing cutting tools- if, and I say if, one acquires diamond pastes instead of the intended sandpaper.

What it seems to come with is guides to create and maintain angles. With tongue in cheek, the nearest equivalent is on sale as a Kennet for a mere £400+ . I think that I know what it is all about as-- I have a Kennet

Cheers

Norm
 
Hi Norm,go for it .I would buy one and fit the diamond lap/discs
for honing the tools .Don't need much HP.I have fitted one to the face of
my grinding wheel and it works well.I bought 3 nos 6"dia x 1.8 steel thk
240,600 and 3000G they are only about $12 each
 
Hi Baz. Thanks but I have already done diamond disk thing- years ago but your suggestion for others is commendable.

Earlier today, I was studying the comments on Scraping in Home Shop Machinist which is worth a look. It is not exactly where you are at- or me, but it is all good stuff.

Really going off at a tangent, Lidl's drilling machine at about £70 could be cannibalised fairly easily. I was looking at my George Thomas stuff and something similar was added to a Myford by a Mr Jim Batchelor of Leeds. Oddly, I got one of those altered 3 jaw chucks which is drilled for dividing and a detent came along with ML10.

Might spend a bit more of 'the children's inheritance' and buy one as kit of parts!

Isn't it fun?

Regards

N
 
wonderfull , much better then the wooden blocks and table setup .

Just thinking out loud now , how about adding a couple of say 50mm tubes to the central column to make a dust extraction .

I also like your dovetail fence setup .



Pat
 
Hi Barry,

Love the frame. Neat being able to swap grinder ends without faffing about.

Thinking about getting some of those lapping discs myself.
 
More work on the tool head.Made the adjustable guide plate and a std
25mm sq toolholder.Made a blank insert collet ready to accept the
ER16 collet chuck when it arrives.Waiting to check the spindle is 10mm dia
before I bore out the holder.Made a new guide rail to drg.Can use the end clamps I made for my version.Still to make the moveable stop and varios
bits and bobs then I will test drive and hopefully do a video
 
Nice job on those little arm pivot screws.
Like you I made all of mine from the plan book.
The little screws and plastic bushes were a real PITA to make and mine do not look any where near as good as yours :(
I didnt make a collet tool holder but did make the square holders by milling a slot in the body and silver soldering a flat piece back over. Then turned to size.
Just need to make a box for mine now.
 
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