Bazmak diary of a 7 x 16 sieg mini lathe

Discussion in 'Introduction' started by bazmak, Jan 5, 2013.

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  1. Jan 5, 2013 #1

    bazmak

    bazmak

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    PART 1 Hi everybody,i have just joined this website and would like to introduce myself,
    Although i was an apprenticed engineer and now a retired model engineer i know
    very little about computers so most of my many failings will be in this area
    In the years gone by i have made a couple of model steam trains and owned a number of Myford Lathes while living in the UK. Unfortunately i sold everything when i retired to live in Australia. At a loss for something to keep me busy and not having a dedicated workshop i decided to buy a Mini Lathe (Smaller footprint and easier to manage.)
    I decided on a 7 x 16 model with tailstock camlok,metal gears to the leadscrew
    and the 500w variable speed motor.I CAN RECOMMEND THIS LATHE TO OTHERS
    and am highly delighted with the build quality.I am currently tweeking and building various mods that will make this lathe a serious piece of kit
    First job before the lathe arrived was to build a bench. I made a frame from 25mm sq tube 800lg x 400w and nom 800mm high with two wheels at one end
    so it can be wheeled away to the corner of my garage.Built in are 2 drawers and a cupboard dedicated to the lathe tooling I will post photo if anyone is interested and can tell me how to post attachments on this website.At this time i have completed a no of mods/attachments which i can pass on in the form of this Diary.I must say that i have found a whole new world out there
    dedicated to the many variants of this wonderful little lathe.Part 2 will be continued if there is sufficient interest.Regards Barry
    PS TIP I recently bought some shimming material to remove play from various
    sliding parts. 1.5 thou being the thinnest.If you use the required shims to get down to about 2 thou Then use aluminium baking foil to fine tune.The foil is a nom half thou so fold the foil the required no of times to give a tight sliding fit
    the remove the foil 1 layer at a time until you are happy
     
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  2. Jan 5, 2013 #2

    Swifty

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  3. Jan 5, 2013 #3

    Rickl

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    Hello Bazmak, Welcome. I too have Seig lathe and mill. Extremely pleased with them.

    Richard, Royal Pk, South Australia
     
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  4. Jan 5, 2013 #4

    Herbiev

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    G'day Bazmak. Welcome to the forum.
     
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  5. Jan 5, 2013 #5

    bazmak

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    thanks swifty for your help and answers.As i said my weak spot is computers and it seems very complicated to me
    I have recently learned about putting my photos into the computer and uploading them to ebay etc and i assumed
    that there would be an attachement link on this site to do the same.However will keep persevering
    Of the other owners 0f mini lathes who want to exchange info/photos my email address is
    barrymidgley2@bigpond.com. Barry,seacliff SA
     
  6. Jan 5, 2013 #6

    bazmak

    bazmak

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    Before i try to continue with part 2 of Seig Mini Lathe part 2 Help me to understand how threads work
    Do i just keep posting here on the board.How do i keep all the posts together etc
    Please be patient with me i am a luddite at heart
     
  7. Jan 5, 2013 #7

    bazmak

    bazmak

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    PART2 Will continue with part 2 and see how it goes I have assumed all posts by me and all answers/comments from other members will all appear in this thread.
    I gave a Brief history of myself in part 1. My aim with this thread is to give and swap ideas on the improvements that can be added to the mini lathe.
    Most of the mods etc are not original but can be changed and tweeked again to suit individuals.My 2 favourie sites are John Moran (gadget builder)
    & TOOLS & MODS.So far i have made the vertical slide using the compound slide and it really works well.I am currently extending the cross slide travel and adding ball bearings.I have also made the saddle lock and next is bearings and graduated handwheel to the leadscrew.Details will follow later but if anybody wants photos or
    Drgs/dims you will have to email at present
    When my lathe arrived and was bolted to my stand all grease cleaned off and gibs checked etc machine was run and played with. Very first job was to turn a piece of
    1" bar x 12" For prelim findings grip in 3 jaw and centre drill both ends Grip 1 end in chuck and support other end in ctre Turn one end 0.9" x 20mm lg and repeat other end.(note i will use imp to 1 thou for accurate dims and metric for nom.) Now take a light skim to clean up the bar using power feed.Result 8thou taper
    Now the first serious tweeking begins with the alignment of the tailstock,at this stage just the vertical, and front to back
    A quick check the centre height at the headstock 90mm + 19thou Tailstock was 6 thou higher GOOD. Before we do anything we must bed the tailstock
    Using the bed as a master blue the bed and slide the tail along using light pressure.Tailstock only touched at 2 or 3 high points Very Rocky
    Blueing the bed, Filing/scaping etc over an hour or so produced a good sliding fit. Fitting strips of 400g wet and dry to the V and flat way with masking tape
    Use a felt tip marker on the v and flat way of the tailstck and rub over the bed.Most of the marks come off at the !1st pass but continue untill you get a good finish
    THE TAILSTOCK SHOULD NOW BE A NICE SLIDING FIT.Bonus is my tailstock is now only 2thou high Good enough for now.
    We now need to adjust the front/back My tailstok has one m5 cap screw to the underside. Drill right thru 6dia and fit 6mm cap screw from above to a fitted nut
    in the slot below The 2nd locking screw was a small slotted screw again open out and fit a m6 cap screw (cap screws have larger allen keys try to standardize not as fiddly) The tailstock can now be unlocked and slid back and forth.To make it easier to set i fitted temporary brkts to front and back and push/pull screws for adjustment. Lock the tailstock as near as you can to cetreline and take a fine skim off your 1" dia parallel Mine was now 12thou bigger at the tailstock end
    Therefore TS needs to come forward 6 thou. Set up a dial indicator,loosen the 2 new locking screws and using the temporary push pull screws move tailstock 6 thou
    Take a fine skim on the parallel and got mine down to less than 2 thou(near enough for me) 2 thou over approx 12" is about 0.1 thou over a 1" lengh turned at the chuck end
    I then fitted a screwed dowel adjacent to the end locking screw on the tailstock
    If i move the tailstock for taper turning i can easily return it to the correct position.Remove the temporary adjusting screws
    Now i finished off the parallel bar to keep for future uses
    I turned the two end sections to exactly 0.625" as accurate as possible polished with emery
    Using a collet set i bought to chuck 1 end (5/8 being the biggest) and between the tailstock centre and turned/polished as accurate as i could (1 thou) to 7/8" Dia
    NOTE SAVE THIS PARALLEL FOR FUTURE USE,Now that the tailstock has improved locking and set up you should notice a massive difference when centre drilling
    small bar.I did. To Be Continued BAZMAK
     
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  8. Jan 5, 2013 #8

    ShopShoe

    ShopShoe

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    Bazmak,

    Thanks for introducing yourself. It is always interesting to see new members join and increase their knowledge and experience level. We were all there once and we all need to keep working to get, well, better.

    My detail-oriented, OCD mind would have me suggest that perhaps now that we are beginning to know you, you might continue this diary on one of the other sub-forums, perhaps "Tools."

    --ShopShoe
     
  9. Jan 5, 2013 #9

    bazmak

    bazmak

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    Thank you shopshoe,but you need to explain to me how to open a sub forum and what are the benefits.Will do part 3 here for now.If anyone learns anything new
    or can give me any ideas i would be very grateful
    PART 3. After setting the lathe up i made my first necessary purchases. A 4 jaw chuck 80mm dia Should have been a min of 4" but you live and learn
    A live centre no2 MT A 6" faceplate and an 8" digital Vernier.I had kept most of my cutting tools drills reamers etc
    Next was a project to give me interest,test my skills and get to know the machine.(I can no longer read a mike without my glasses and have no chance with a normal vernier.) I purchased a kit of materials and casting from STUART MODELS for the 10V engine.It took me 3 weeks to make,i have just run it in on the lathe and plan to run it on compressed air.No problems making it(i had to buy a Mapp brazing torch to silver solder the crankshaft) but the mini lathe performed well.No problem working to 1 thou when needed.The lathe was at max cap. turning the 4" flywheel and the does be good at knuckle rapping if you get comlacent.
    One of the laws of model engineering states that to make an item A you first need to make fixture B and then maybe item C.To machine some castings i needed to use the faceplt and for that i needed an angle plt.I could not find a readily available commercil one so decided to make one.
    I bought 2 pieces of 50x50x8 L and welded stiffening gussets,drilled and slotted holes etc Bolted both to the faceplt and shimmed to sq up from the bed.(welding had pulled the L out of sq I took a light skim over 1 face,rversed for the 2 nd face and then faced off the two edges to a fixed dim.
    I was very impressed with the way the lathe performed,i had to lock the cross slide with a quickfix mark 1 using an existing tapped hole in the saddle and a clamping screw down on the bed.(far from ideal but the proper carriage lock comes in part 4.(I also had to wait for HER WHO MUST BE OBEYED to go out as the thump of the intermittent cut went right thru the house.
    One problem that came to light during this time was that the cross slide was not sq to the main axis.The facing cut was concave by about 8 thou on a rad of about 75mm.Not acceptable but will need to be sorted at a later date.How much was down to cross slide misalignment,play or bed twist etc will determined and hopefully rectified later.At least the cut was not convex.Lathes should be set to produce a very slight concave facing cut.
    Thats all for now folks part 4 will be the vertical slide and the carriage lock.Take care what could go wrong will go wrong.
     
  10. Jan 6, 2013 #10

    ShopShoe

    ShopShoe

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    Bazmak,

    FYI: How to start a new thread

    -Go to (and open) any of the subforums

    -Above and to the left of the "Threads in Forum" header box you will see a "New Thread" button to click, OR:

    --If you look under the "Forum Tools" drop-down at the right of the header box you will also find "Post a New Thread."

    Hope this helps:

    --ShopShoe
     
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  11. Jan 6, 2013 #11

    bazmak

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    Hi shop shoe, thank you for trying to help. I told you i was computer illegitimate but i cant find sub forums. Please keep trying
    Who would think that a yank would be trying to help an Ozzie Pom.(please dont take any offence its my sense of humour
    I very much appreciate your trying to help me. Regards Barry
     
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  12. Jan 6, 2013 #12

    bazmak

    bazmak

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    PART 4 Since buying the lathe i have considered buying the SX2 Mill to go with it.This would mean another bench on wheels and with min. tooling
    would probably cost another $1200.For the expected usage at this time it was a no a

    brainer.Next i considered buying the vertical slide for $300
    but then saw on the web the idea of making one using the compound slide.I had purchased a collet set and had a number of end mills and a flycutter etc
    I was halfway there so decided to give it a try for little cost.A vertical slide is limited to light milling only but i had used one before so knew its potential
    I bought a piece of angle 75x75x10 nom 80lg It was very good for sq so i decided to avoid distortion and machining by not welding stiffening webs on
    I drilled 3 holes in 1 web and bolted it down to the cross slide.This gives 360 degrees horizontal rotation.I then bored nom 40dia stepped hole same as the cross slide
    I then made a stepped washer with a centre pin and two tapped holes as the existing one on the x slide.Bolted the c/slide in position.This gives 360 vertical rotation
    I removed the toolpost and drilled and tapped 2 holes m5 in the corners of the top slide adjacent to the dial and handle.Make 2 spacer washers 20 dia and lengh to suit the step in the top of the cross slide.Then picking up with 2 m5 csk screws and the existing m10 toolpost hole with a M10 hx sock button hd screw i bolted down a 150 x 100 x 10thk plt
    This plate can then be drilled and tapped as required to facilitate bolting on various workpieces or a vice.I drilled and tapped 2 vertical rows of m6 holes at nom 25 ctres
    I purchased the 2.5" screw precision machine vice and bolted it in position with 4 eccentric clamping spacer/washers.The vice can now positioned in a wide range of vertical positions central on the plate. I am very pleased with it so far.I have milled 1.5 mm deep x 3/8"wide with a 3/8" endmill in steel.The whole setup is very sturdy
    with no chatter. Cost was only $5 for the steel and $90 for the vice.(this can also be used on the drill or mill)Remember when you make A you may Have to make B
    At the moment i can only use the rack and pinion on the x axis.I now have to extend the leadscrew and fit bearings and a graduated handwheel.That was in the pipeline anyway.FORWARD AND ONWARD Dont forget when you do a job make a job and you will never be out of work. Regards Barry
     
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  13. Jan 7, 2013 #13

    bazmak

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    PART 5 I have just completed the extended cross slide mod and it makes a massive improvement to the lathe.I will give details later in parts 7 or 8
    Before we can do any milling using the vertical slide or any heavy/intermittent facing cuts we must have a dedicated carriage lock.
    On the top left hand side are 2 m6 tapped holes,the rear one for the travelling steady,the use of the front one is unknown and blocked with a grub screw.
    As a simple temporary c/lock i dropped a plug of nylon in the hole and fitted a hex hd srew.When tightened this clamped on the top of the V and locked the carriage.
    This has 2 big downsides.1 locking the bolt lifts the carriage and increases play and tool chatter 2 The nylon becomes compacted and even when released
    produces resistance to the power feed on the leadscrew.The best way to clamp the carriage is to use a tailstock style clamp that pulls the carriage down to the bed.
    The typical idea is on the tools and mods website. This however shows it on the grizzly lathe which has a full width saddle flange front to back
    The sieg lathe has a reduced flange ,central on both sides. I machined a piece of 20sq bar x nom 50 lg to 20 x 15 and filed/radiused to a neat fit in the carriage
    I drilled 2 horizontal 5.5dia holes at nom 30 ctres thru and drilled and tapped the carriage M5 to suit.A c,bored 6.5 dia hole can then be drilled vertically on bed c,line to suit a specially turned clamping bolt.Keep as near to tailstock side as you can to clear the gib screws A stepped clamp is made to fit the u,side of the bed ways and tapped to suit the clamp bolt.I fitted the top of the bolt with a 5mm dia x 40 lg silver steel tommy bar,each end drilled and tapped M3 for hx sock/button hd screws
    When set to the correct height a half turn is suffient to lock the carriage Downside is that when the tailstock is pushed hard to the saddle it loses about 25mm of travel.No worse than than the Grizzly i suppose Regards Barry
     
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  14. Jan 7, 2013 #14

    bazmak

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    Hi again shoe shop,i have just found the sub forums and think i now understand
    how they work.I now realize i have been posting in the welcome forum and you suggested i post in say tools with my diary thread.Should i therefore start posting in say tools or carry on in the welcome forum ? How can i transfer my existing posts to say tools ? It may take a while to understand everything but i am getting there.Just a question, TIN FALCON has helped with my posts and while browsing i noticed he spends a lot of effort helping others.Is he an individual or part of a group who help run this website ? I noticed that i am considered a junior member while there are senior members and administrators etc.Can you explain this to me please. Regards Barry
     
  15. Jan 7, 2013 #15

    ShopShoe

    ShopShoe

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    Bazmak,

    We try to be helpful here rather than spend all our time creating rules. It is your decision whether to move your diary. I would say you don't necessarily have to move it all: At some point you could end one of your posts by stating that you will continue it in another place. In the new place, you could begin your first post there with a short summary of what you have done and where the original post is still located.

    Perhaps someone else here has other ideas as to how you could make a transition with better continuity.

    There is also nothing wrong with continuing here while you finish setting up your lathe. When you get to the point where you start an engine or some other project now you know how to start a thread in a subforum.

    Tin Falcon is one of the administrators and has been a member since 2007. He has always been helpful. Perhaps he would chime in here if he feels like it.

    Perhaps Tin can also correct what I am about to say if it is wrong. My understanding is that as you stay here and post more often, your status will rise. The forum changed hands a few months back and I'm not sure what the current status terms are.

    Administrators and Moderators are members here who also have priveleges and access to the systems which run the site in order to do the excellent job they do in keeping things civil and free from the type of individuals who mean to cause trouble or promote unrelated agendas. A HUGE THANK YOU TO ALL OF THEM.

    My apologies for a long and wandering post. You are off to a good start here and you will find this group helpful and encouraging whenever we can.

    Good Luck

    --ShopShoe
     
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  16. Jan 7, 2013 #16

    bazmak

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    PART 6 For this chapter i will digress from the sieg lathe to describe a project from my dark and distant past simply because some of the ideas have resurfaced
    and could be used for mods on the sieg lathe.Namely using the lathe as a shaper to cut keyways or to graduate dials + someone might find it interesting
    About 30 yrs ago in the begining of my model engineering i had purhased my 1st myford lathe I saw advertised very cheap a small bench milling machine which i bought for 40 UK pounds. It was a small CENTEC horizontal in very grubby but unworn condition.All the parts were there but the motor was dead Sizewise the macine could be carried by me and was a cross sizewise between the S1 and S2 mill I completely stripped the machine gave everything relevant 2 coats of green hammerite paint
    cleaned all exposed metal parts slides etc and reassembled.The reason i work this way is that before starting any mods i like to work with a clean unit and be familiar with all parts and the extent of hidden parts for future machining or drilling tapping etcI obtained a new very cheap 1/2hp motor and starter switch from work,made new mounting plt and bolted to the swinging arm.Belt tension was by gravity with the motor weight I made a new tensioning screw and fitted the starter switch
    The headstock was fitted with a 3 pulley cluster aluminium section B - V belt. I purchased/made/altered a 3 pulley cone for the motor to give 4-1 reduction and fitted a new V belt to the central pulley approx 400 rpm.With a speed above and below with slight correction on the belt tension.The machine was now running.By removing the overarm
    and shaft the machine could also be used as a(vertical/boring) machine using a collet or chuck held in the No 2 morse taper with a drawbar.I never used it as a horizontal as the tooling was specialised and expensive.The x-x axis allowed limited travel and worked on a rack/pinion with a lever I fitted a 3/8w leadscrew to the front of the table 16tpi and fitted a commercial 4" hand wheel to the right hand which i graduated to 62.5 divisions.Each 1 was 1 thou 1 rev = 1/16
    The Y axis was on a small leadsrew so i replaced the knurled knob with a small graduated,removeable hand wheel that i made
    The vertical Y axis was the most difficult and interesting.The headstock was fixed,the bed moved up and down by hand on dovetails and locked in position
    Against the vertical column fitted a 3/8w lesdscrew drilling and tapping thru the rear of the main table and into a bush in the top of the base of the machine where i fitted a bicycle sprocket (say 12t) I drilled and bushed at the front of the top of the m/c base and fitted a larger sprocket(say 48t) I know i used a 4/1 ratio to give a rise of 0.250 Also used a section of bicycle chain,
    per revolution of the large sprocket.From 10 thk plt i made a nom 4" dia handwheel which also acted as a cover for the sprocket and was graduated in 250 lines each 1 being 1 thou. (That bloody thou again) The wheel was marked out by hand and the graduations cut on the lathe.The disc was steel the lines infilled with black paint.I made a few other minor mods axis locks etc I used a very small drilling vice and/or L plate and it worked well making tee nuts etc for other projects.Only downside was when bolting to the L plt the view of the cutting tool was obscured. Ah memories numb fingers on cold winters evening in the UK.Now i,m using a Sieg lathe in Australia The Temp at the weekend was 45 degrees C TEMPUS FUGIT Regards Barry
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2013
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  17. Jan 8, 2013 #17

    bazmak

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    PART 7 I have adjusted the gibs on the compound and cross slides but more improvements will be made later.However for now i have replaced the the grub screws with socket hd cap screws and full nuts.( larger allen keys and less fiddly)
    As described on more than 1 website,swarf gets into the apron gears so a cover is needed.I disregarded the 3mm perspex(too thick and brittle) instead opted for 1.5 alum.that i had in stock.I used a ground woodcutting spade bit to cut the nom 16dia gear hole(just touch both sides and the centre drops out)Drill and tap the casting location to suit and fit 4 M3 csk hd screws. On my model the gears did not project above the casting,so i did not need to skim the gears.However my lathe has a leadscrew guard and this fouled the alum plt.Using my old sheetmetal working skills i tighted both folds with a hammer and dollyand reduced by 1.4mm ,perfect.
    While i had the alum out i made a nom 150x100 tray x 10dpand fixed it to the top of the carriageusing the 2 existing tapped holes.This cllects most of the swarf when turning and keeps the bed clear. Later projects will be to improve the handwheel gear/gear mesh and pinion/rack gear mesh.Also we need to bed the carriage,make new gibb plts.I want to increase the cross slide travel and add bearings.I also want to extend the leadscrew and fit bearings and a graduated handwheel.Barry
     
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  18. Jan 9, 2013 #18

    bazmak

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    Part 8 Bedding the carriage.I removed the leadscrew bearing block from the tailstock end so i could remove the leadscrew cover and apron.Removed the cross slide
    I then slid the carriage off and removed the gib plates.I blued the V and the flat on the bed and slid the carriage back and forwards.It was a very poor fit only touching on a couple of high points.Before proceeding further i wanted to hack out the top of the carriage to expose more leadscrew.See John Morans website.I did not have a mill so did the hard way.Grind,drill,file and chisel Looks rough but mostly hidden but i can clean it up when i buy a mill.I managed to get an additional 20mm of travel.
    I spent a half day doing what i did to the tailstock,file scrape and polish until i got continuous blue to all areas of the V and flat bedway.Then again taped some 400G
    wet & dry to the V and flat and polished up to a nice finish.Now for the gib plates they are a poor design.Iron plates 18x6 with 3 clamping holes and 2 tapped holes.
    These form weak points and the screws working against each other bend the plate,you cant get it flat anyway and the plates eventually crack,mine already had
    and the lathe less than 6 months old.(As we Yorkshire folk say, ****e)I bought 2 pieces of brass 3/4 x 1/4 x 100 lg and drilled 3 holes 6dia in each.
    I fitted 6mm studs to all 6 positions using grub screws.fitted the plates over the studs by titivating with a needle file.(I didnt want to use large clearance holes
    and weaken the brass any further.) and then fitted flat washers and 6mm NYLOC NUTS.I fitted shims to get to about 2 thou and finished with leafs of alum. Baking foil
    as mentioned previous.I am still playing with the shims but the difference is UNBELIEVABLE. Rock solid and you can easily adjust to any fit you want.
    I suggest you leave about 1 thou clear(that dammned thou again) you need this to maintain an oil film between surfaces.I also suggest filing a rad and a small lead in
    to both leading edges of each plate so that it does not scrape off the oil.Its so easy now to nudge the locknuts 1/10 turn or so to adjust the fit.
    As an addendum just a few facts/thoughts.Most nuts and bolts have a tensile strenght of 4.6.High tensile bolts are 8.8 but hex sock screws are 10.9
    I always use CAP,GRUB,CSK,and BUTTON HD whereever possible,more expensive but well worth it.I also use WIZZNUTS these are HT nuts incorporatind the washer which has a serrated face to act as a shakeproof washer.I use them on the chuck fixings but they only need to be nipped up lightly,if you over tighten them its a hell of a job to get them off.I filed 2 flats on an m6 to make a sliding fit in the slot under the tailstock to pick up the m6 capscrew from above.Refer tailstock alignment.
    Next will be the extended cross slide travel. Regards Barry
     
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  19. Jan 11, 2013 #19

    bazmak

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    PART 9 EXTENDING THE CROSS SLIDE TRAVEL.
    From the TOOL & MODS website i wanted to make a new steel support brkt with 2 new M5 external steel fixings
    and to AVOID making a new leadscrew.
    From JOHN MORANS/GADGET BUILDER website i wanted to avoid turning an eccentric alum. brkt but make a leadscrew extension,fit an 8mm ball brg
    and a new dial locking ring. I decided to locate the bearing central over the end of the leadscrew,this produced an o/all brkt length of nom 62.5mm
    I turned and faced a piece of 1 1/2 dia bar x 65lg. nom 38dia x 7w at the cross slide end,33 dia x 11lg at the bearing end and 20dia over the central section
    I drilled thru 13 dia and bored out the bearing end 22dia x 7 dp.At the Xslide end i machined a recess 15.4 x 3.1 dp.The depth is important,too small and it locks the leadscrew too deep and it allow longtitudinal play(backlash) I cut and milled the two flats on the 38 dia 10mm above CL and 12.5mm Below CL
    I drilled 2 new fixing holes 5mm below CL and 28 ctrs I drilled and tapped M5 the Xslide to suit.I had to file a small V to clear the gibb strip as it passed over the flg
    I greased the recess and bolted the brkt to the cross slide.I made a 12o/d x 8i/d x 17.5 lg spacer and fitted it on the leadscrew before fitting the bearing and locking the outer race with a grub screw. I then made the leadscrew extension from 16 dia x 34lg bar.I drilled thru 6 dia and turned the bearing end 8dia x 3.5 lg;then 15dia x 1.3 lg;12dia x 11lg;3/8" x 32 ME thread x 6mm lg and the remainder 8 dia for the handle.Faced off @ 32.5 lg.I also recessed the existing dial 15.5 dia x 1.1dp.
    The 8dia x 3.5 end is fitted in the brg,and the dial fitted over the 12 dia.The new clamping ring and wave washer fitted on the thread and the handle and washers fitted last.All were clamped together with a M6 x 40lg HS button hd screw
    As i did not yet have parting off or knurling facilities i had bodge something.I had a 35 dia x 3 thk steel,guilded and enameled poker chip protector with a milled edge which i drilled and tapped 3/8" x32
    I also had some corrugated 0.7mm acrylic roof sheeting from which i cut a wave/pressure washer.
    The whole system works well,the Xslide travel has been increased from 80 to 100mm,The gibscrews can be overtightened and the handle rotation is much smoother.
    A quarter turn of the locking washer locks the dial and a nudge sets any pressure need.IF ANYONE MORE DETAILS,DIMS OR DRGS let me know and i will email them.
    This is one of the best mods i have yet made Regards Barry
     
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  20. Jan 12, 2013 #20

    bazmak

    bazmak

    bazmak

    BAZMAK HMEM Supporter

    Joined:
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    PART 10 The rear chip guard fouls the cross slide before its maximum travel and prevents its removal.
    I like to have the guard in situ in some situations and to remove it for others.I therefore decided to make it quick release.
    It is fitted to the bed with 4 roundhead screws and one fixing into the headstock.I permanently removed 3 screws but eased off the one nearest the tailstock
    I eased the keyhole slot with a needle file.I fitted a stud(grubscrew) to the headstock with a wingnut.The guard can now be fitted over the end scew (keyhole)
    and towards the headstock over the stud ,fit wingnut.The guard is fixed securely without rattle and removed in seconds without a screwdriver.
    I also removed the two long M5 capscrews from the headstock gear cover.I fitted 2 studs from threaded rod and 2 wingnuts.(a little easier)
    Not having a dedicated workshop means cleaning up everytime.A few days ago HER WHO MUST BE OBEYED triumphantly showed me a small spiral of steel swarf
    that she had found on the bedroom floor.She patiently explained that it could have caused severe lascerations to her foot.I explained how the cat must have carried it in and quietly promised to be more careful.
    Now i have started browsing more of the website a couple of my thoughts.People are describing about working to 1/10 thou; with a mini lathe ? get real, this
    is model engineering not the aviation industry.I have also comments about electrolitic reaction if you use alum baking foil as shim
    If your workshop is on the beach it might be a problem. Thats all for now folks Barry
     
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