Band saw blades

[purpleknif]

I just got a Horrible Freight 4 x 6 for $199. Haven't put it together yet but I imagine it has a cheap blade, What's a good all around blade I am doing mostly aluminum and brass with the occasional chunk of 1018 or C.I. Life was easier when I could go into work an use our 48" wheel Marvel but there was a towmotor accident and now its scrap. Boss has no plans to replace it since I was its most frequent user.

Thanks

 

[chucketn]

I have had good luck with the HF 10-14 tooth blades. Not the real cheap ones, I think they were the middle or highest cost ones there. I did have a problem with breaking the 2 that came with my 2nd hand HF saw(older green version). I learned to silver solder the blades on a home made jig. I also joined the yahoo 4x6 saw group, https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/4x6bandsaw. You should join the group, if only to get the setup and alignment guide there, written by John Pitkin, called Blade Tracking and Adjustment for 4x6 Metal Cutting Bandsaws. Go through the guide when you set up your saw and it will cut straight and true.

Chuck

 

[purpleknif]

Thanks ! I'll try that.

 

[pkastagehand]

I've got an old Buffalo version of those little saws that I repaired. It was knocked over once by cows that got into the shed at the farm where I grew up. I have been using Horror Fright blades (probably as suggested) not the cheapest ones. They do OK for the occasional use I give them.

My biggest issue is they come off the wheels quickly if they catch on what I'm cutting. I think some day I'll improve the thing some how but never get around to it.

 

[chucketn]

Thanks ! I'll try that.

I recommend going through the alignment in the previous mentioned document and trying the HF blade that came with the saw. Use a piece of 2x4 wood to make test cuts while checking alignment. Try the metal blade on some scrap and see how it cuts. If not to your satisfaction, then try a better quality blade.

Chuck

 

[Wizard69]

I just got a Horrible Freight 4 x 6 for $199. Haven't put it together yet but I imagine it has a cheap blade, What's a good all around blade I am doing mostly aluminum and brass with the occasional chunk of 1018 or C.I. Life was easier when I could go into work an use our 48" wheel Marvel but there was a towmotor accident and now its scrap. Boss has no plans to replace it since I was its most frequent user.

Thanks

I use Starret blades and have had very good luck with my Grizzly variant. In fact I'm shocked at how well it cuts, accurately too.


As far as your boss I have a similar idiot at the plant I work. He wouldn't buy a tool post for a small manual lathe because I was the only one using it. Idiot is the right term here, I really don't have the time to deal with it.

 

[Chiptosser]

I will have to agree, to checking the alignment and tracking of the blade.
You should, for best results, start with a new blade. This way you know that the blade is not tweeked or kinked .
Check the welded joint to make sure that it is smooth and not catching as it goes through the rollers.
So, check the posting about setting up these saws, saves a lot of aggravation.

 

[Tin Falcon]

Look for bi metal blades
tin

 

[dnalot]

Hi

I hate to join any Yahoo group as my e-mail quickly loads up with junk mail after doing so. Here is a link to John Pitkin's alignment guide that you can download without going to Yahoo.

https://wiki.artisansasylum.com/images/0/00/Basic_blade_adjustment_and_tracking_-_rev-1.pdf

Mark

 

[gus]

Look for bi metal blades
tin

100 % true. Bimetal blades cuts best and on the target line and does not wander off. The cheapy blades will cut well for only a short while and after that its very difficult to cut on the target line. Took me quite a while and after 1/2 dozen cheapy blades.
A bandsaw is a very handy equipment in HMEM Shops as most of our engines are made from bar stocks. Manual HackSawing will leave us totally exhausted.