1 / 8 Scale Galloway Build

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Gary

If you put the fuel tank high it will flood all the time. Did you try the sequence I sent you with the fuel tank low?

I am curious to know if it did anything like I suspected.

Bob
 
Hi, Again .Yes when I put the tank low It will only draw fuel when I prime It " finger Over Hole" ..I raised the tank and Made a smaller orfice and Needle valve and now it will run for about 30 seconds and stop.Sometimes it will restart with first hand spin. run for same time, and sometimes I have to open valve a little ,but then I have to put back to previous setting to run good but then 30 seconds or so it will stop again.I'm useing a 4.40 needle valve I now think I need one with more threads per inch..I didn't get it to The Chilton show ,but still planing Baraboo . Gary H
 
Gary

I will be there only on Friday in the model building, hope you can make it that day.

Bob
 
Hi Bob , Well I finally got it running I will post a video as soon as I get a chance .After lots of adj to needle valve today it ran for about 10 minutes .Ran pretty good.I didn't make it to Baraboo . Some time I'd like to meet you guys maybe next year ..Talk to you later..Gary H
 
Gary

Great news, congratulations on getting her to go. I look forward to the video

Bob
 
Second time starting and trying 2 get it to run longer then 10 seconds.It finely ran for about 10 min and stopped ,It restarted on first spin and ran about the same length of time.I will add a better video with better contrast when I get a chance.
 
The video didn't work Don't know why.........
 
I guess I was Doing wrong...It sure is noisey on that video ...Thanks for everyones help .Gary H
 
I guess I was Doing wrong...It sure is noisey on that video ...Thanks for everyones help .Gary H

Hi Zneb,

Great engine and great engine music. Hopefully my Hit & Miss will get to spin by end September.
w/o governor initially. Bought CDI for it. Missed out the magnet which I will order today.
 
Hi all

I started this thread way back when. I have some info that might help builders of this model. As you know I redid all the drawings for Ministeam and they now own them. They asked me to get their engine converted from the spark ignition to an ignitor, and using their carburator with the elevated fuel tank. Thanks to the excellent work of Gary on trying the same thing and providing me information I experimented further and got everyting working. The engine, ignitor, and carburator were available to me from Ministeam after it was delivered to them and they got it painted. The original builder (George Britnell) just decided to use a spark plug and his carburator design.

No modifications to the ignitor, or fuel tank.

The changes to carburator/mixer are as follows.
The nozzle as shown on the drawing needs the jet hole changed to a
a #79 (.0145). The feed hole from the other end needs to be a #76 (.020). Depending on how you machined the main casting you want the jet end to be .020 short of the center line of the air chamber. To maintain contentricity the 8-32 must be single point threaded on the lathe.

The needle needs a more change. Ideally you would want more than the 40 threads to the inch, if you can make your own tap get it up to 100 or more. On my engine I have a working lunk with 112 threads.
What you are going to do is get a #10 needle (.018 diameter). The threads need to be .570 long under the head. You need to have the needle end sticking out .230. Make the cutoff needle about .440 or so. You then drill a #75 (.021) hole in the end or the needle holder the depth to have the .230 sticking out. In the case above drill .210 deep. Again you need to do this in one setup - drill the hole, turn it down .570 and single point the 5-40. Do not use the jam nut called out, instead make a spring so as to keep tension on the threads. Using 640 loctite (slow setting 30 min) put the needle in the needle holder. Then clean threads no excess loctite. Thread into the casting and into the nozzle carefully not real tight just snug. Let sit overnight.

You now have the carburator/mixer that is on the engine in the video. You MUST turn the mixer off when engine is stopped or it will drain the tank! You could put a shut off valve on the tank - better solution.

This setup floods easily, so starting is a bit tricky. I choke it with a turn or two, shut the valve off and kick it on. On this engine it takes 2 - 2 1/4 turns to run nice.

One other issue for builders. When you press the sleeve into the use loctite 640, it is for a press fit and seals well. Also use this when inserting cylinder into the Base. The slow setting property lets you align the cylinder perfectly.

Here is the Ministeam engine :

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU0e4kePvxs&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

Ministeam does not have the updated prints yet, I felt getting this out might help. I will be providing updated prints to them in a week or so, and I am sure it will take about a month before they get it incorporated into their system. So do not call them for a bit for an updated carburator print.

Bob
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: gus
Great engine built by a great meister. Runs smoothly.The Hitting & Missing very steady/smooth.
Hopefully ,now that all the encumbrance caused by bad housekeeping on my work bench banished,Gus will have total peace of mind to get the ''Hitting & Missing'' on his Rupnow engine now long overdued.

IMG_0531.jpg
 
Hi Bob and All of you,
I want to build a mixer like you did for there engine ...Mine runs pretty good but still stops for no reason at all. will start right up on first try ..Where can I get the castings for that carb ...Thanks Gary H
 
Gary

The casting is the one that comes with the Galloway Kit. I just made the nozzle and needle different from the existing drawings. I submitted all of the drawing updates to ministeam yesterday.

Bob
 
All

As I was running the Ministeam Galloway and explaining my changes to several folks, I got an input that I want to pass along. In addition to the changes I made the person who has much experience in engines suggested that if I put a loop in the fuel tank it would force the engine to actually use the vacume of the venturi to pull the fuel up the height of the tank. As it stand now all the fuel forms a pressure on fuel line. The loop would go from the inlet at the bottom up to near the top of the tank and then back down to the bottom.

One more thing to experiment with, if the tank was not complete I would use this suggestion if building the tank from scratch.

Bob
 
Hi Bob ,
I rebuilt the carb to your spec"s .But now I can't get it to even fire..Got any Ideas? The only thing I know that is different is the size of the thread on the carb is 3/16 instead of what the drawing calls for.The hole through is according to drawings.I'm now thinking I don't have enough bevel on the part where the # 79 hole is drilled. "orifice ". another Question How much clearance do you have between piston and head at top dead center..I have about 1/8 of an inch, might be to little..Just looking for some new thought's on My problem .Thanks Gary H
 
Gary

Without taking it apart I have .375. I measured from the bottom of the piston when the crank is at BDC where it comes out to the head end. That was 2.5". The piston is .875 and the throw is .625 ( travel 1.25" total) 2.5- .875 - 1.25 = .375.

I also pulled up my 3D model which has all the parts and moved the piston to TDC made center view and measured the distance and it came .377.
The distance from my Crank Pin Center to Wrist pin center is 2.5". From top of piston to center of wrist pin is .5

Gary I attached a PDF file for you to look at it might help, you just need a reader.

I did not put any bevel on the fuel exit hole. The needle will slowly form a seat when you shut the fuel line down.

How much of your plug is uncovered?

Bob Nawa

View attachment Gary Cutaway.pdf
 
Back
Top