my first I.C.: a V10

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Very neat design on your belt tensioner. The engine is looking great Frank.
 
Hey Frank,
Fabulous build! :bow:
How were your valve covers script-engraved?
I need to have some scale model car tires, that are 8.5" diameter, molded and was wondering what would be the best tool to use to put the sidewall script into the aluminum dies?
Should this be done with EDM machine, laser printer or can CNC machining be precise enough? ???
Thanks,
Giovanni
 
A decent home build should be able to achieve that pretty easily.
I did plenty of fine engraving on my X2 CNC which was fairly low quality iron. I have now converted my BF30 and that is about ±0.025mm positioning accuracy. Good enough for anything I would want to do. Done quite a bit of super fine work on that, including PCB engraving with 0.3mm cutters.
In fact, in some respects a home machine is better than a full blown VMC for this type of thing. We have some Mazak Nexus machines at work which are very nice, but there is so little memory on board the long G-code files needed will not fit on in one program. Home machines running Mach 3 have pretty much no limit.
 
Hi,

@Giovanni:
i've engraved it on my DIY Gantry.
Most important is a high speed spindle
(my modified spindle can go up to 60.000 rpm)

The acurancy ? i don't know - should be less than 0,05mm

today i made the first try of the intake manifold - but first only the top side:

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rough and finish has taken 4h ...

and a distributor was done for test:

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diameter 28mm
But when i drilled the holes for the connectors the domes are demolished :-(
there is a little redesign necessary ...

Frank
 
I need to make some 1/4 scale Stanley Steamer hubcaps with the script and wondering what would be the best method for the highest resolution? I was thinking after machining the hubcap to have the Stanley Steam Car script laser printed.
Thanks,
Giovanni


stanleyrocket.jpg
 
Hi,

yesterday/today i started the exhaust pipes - an nearly finished:

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made of stainless steel - tube are outer dia 10mm, inner dia 9mm
the color of the second picture iss very dark.
The real skin is more linke in the first photo

bended with a self build bender:
(build from rest material whatever i found :) )
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Frank
 
Hi Frank,

How are you ?

Very cool this exhaust !

You said it was based on the book Schillings... what has in this book?

I'm trying to buy this book here in Brazil, but do not exist... I'll try buy from out... I found on Amazon.com website...

So... I do not understand of the germany language (I would like of the understand)... by the Google Translator help I could see that http://www.vth.de is a site with a lot of publications and by the photos is very interesting... Do you could talk a bit about it for us ?

Thank you,

Alexandre
 
Which grade of stainless are you using? I was just searching for some tubing for exhaust today.
 
Hi,
Your build is extremely interesting!
I`m intrigued about your bender, can you post some detailed pics of it?
I will need one shortly and i`m planning to build one, and yours look simple enough for me that i think i`ll be able to do it without requiring extra skills!

Regards,
Norberto
 


Frank, this is absolutely amazing! Great work. :bow: :bow:


Ron
 
Hi,

"Danke für die Blumen" :)

Alexandre:
i'm not sure if the plans always available at vth.
But i will see what i can email you.
The plans are very incomplete - only a base for own ideas ...

@greg:
i can give you the material number in europe standard: 1.4301
further designations:
X5CrNi18-10
AISI 304
V2A

hope it helps
(the tube has been soft glowed before process)
and i've used precision tubes (very small tolerances and without suture)

@ Norberto:

the bender is very simple:

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part 1 is the mandrel.
important:
diameter: maximum gap to inner dia of tube 0,1mm or less
tip: radius is bending radius plus tube inner radius
beginning of radius has fit very close to middle line of bend-role !
i've added a thread at the end of the mandrel to vary the length

part 2 is the role:
outer radius is the bendradius
the groove is half tube outer dia
the tube has to fit very easy into the groove

part 3 is the driver.
it will clamp the tube.
important: when the tube is in position tighten it on the tube.
then tighten i to the role - the tube mustn't forced into any position !
therefore the hole to fit it to the role has nearly 1mm gap

part 4 is the body.
i have added a sleeve of PTFE - no scratches on the tube

hope it helps - again :)

the engine:
today i milled the flanges for the pipes.
also stainless steel - 1,5mm thickness
and milling a sheet of this material is something for someone, who has slay mother and father.
indeed - i killed 4 carbide endmills on this part :-(

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Frank
 
Frank,
Thanks for the explanation regarding the bender, i will give it a try!
And again, your build is amazing!
You make it look so simple!

Regards,
Norberto
 
nfk said:
You make it look so simple!

i think i'm not the laziest - but:
the exhaust takes 3 days for bending - only 3 bends for test - not 3 tubes
(the material was very expensive ! nearly 200$ for both sides)

the bender another day
and one day for the flanges (milling and tig-welding)

one day is minimum 8h (and can take also 20h !)

Frank
 
I use lots of 316L tubing in this size for my business and it is around $1.00 @ ft.
It bends very nicely, too.
Giovanni
 
one day - one part

not a lot - but a little bit ... :)

intake manifold finished:

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Frank
 
Beautiful! :bow:
 
Hi,

a small update:

starter with "gearbox" (planetary gear - 2 stages 20:1)
(only placed for test if it will fit)
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now i have to made thoughts about how to lane the gear at the flywheel ...

and today i started the 5 carbs:

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now the engine became more the look for an engine :)

Frank

PS:
i hope such high-resolution pictures are not forbidden.
in another forum they like to see details :)

PSS: i just see the photos are scaled ...
 
Nice looking "Beast" of an engine......I want to video! :bow: :bow:

;D

Dave
 
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