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BillH

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Here is the solidworks drawing, NOT that I actually needed to do this in solidworks, I am just a nerd.
n704004005_1395839_2930.jpg

Pay no attention to the precision to 4 decimal places.
And here is one of two workbenches I built today.
One bench is for the 8x14 Lathemaster, and the other, the X3 mill for when it arrives later this week!
n704004005_1401867_8378.jpg


24 carriage bolts in each one, almost half pound of wood screws for each one. They will get painted, although I am more towards functionality than pretty looks, at least when it comes to my workbenches.
 
I only layed out mine to 3 decimal places. You got me beat by a whole power of 10 ;D

I like that you are putting a Lathemaster lathe on it. I got the 9x30 and am so much of newbie myself I have to just accept that its great and move on with completing my stand for it. Still have yet to make a chip as they say here. It's driving me INSANE. To have a tool in my house for this long, and not have used it yet, is not standard practice.


Newbie myself,
Kermit




 
You better plug that lathe in and cut some metal! Some one new to machining is no different than a brand new flight instructor who has yet to teach some one how to fly. Best thing you can do is dive straight in and get going.
 
Bill

Great looking benches! They're plenty stiff enough and more importantly heavy enough that they should work very well! :bow:

You might want to consider putting some draws with draw slides in. That will add a TON of storage space for the lathe or mill gagets, and the expense is small. You don't need to go to ball bearing ones, just waxed hardwood ones would do fine for now but put in draw stops! For wax use floor wax or even rub and old candle on them. For drawers, 3/4 plywood bottom with 1 x 2 rails glued and screwed on 4 sides to form a tray works very well. Don't go "Norm" on them, but if you Put nice drawer fronts on and you have a nice piece of furniture! My bench draws are constructed that way and I have two with over 100 pounds in them and they've held up for over 6 years

Additionally, you might want to wrap 3 sides with thin sheet ply to keep the chips away from the draws, it will help keep the clean up after a work session simple as getting chips off of shelves/draws full of "stuff" is a royal PITA.
....ask me how I know this... ::)....trust me the chips will find their way into everything unless you make an effort to keep them out. ;D. If I can get out there tonight I will snap a pic of a typical draw, but you could put 1 shallow one in near the top for small items and 1 or two larger ones for chucks,steadies, toolholders milling straps, dividing heads, vices, and collets below that.

Happy machining to ya! send pictures of the new additions when you get them set up! ;D .

Dave
 
P1060001.jpg

P1060002.jpg

P1060003.jpg

P1060004.jpg


Draw pictures showing construction...the bottom picture for scale shows an 8" rotary table

Additionally, the short draws I have I use 1/2" ply bottoms. The Taller heavier draws use 3/4" bottoms.

Just a thought as It worked well for me.
 
Thank you for the pictures, that is a great idea! Few weeks ago I bought a rolling tool chest from Sams Club, had them knock 200$ off of the price and got it for 400$, it is 6ft tall with 14 drawers, made in Taiwan. I am only using 30% of its capacity at the moment :) I will however do as you suggest when their is need for it.
Today I took my scrap 3/4 plywood and biscuit cut them and butt glued them together to form the top and bottom shelfs for a cyclone separator for the shock vac. Also reorganized the garage to make it more space efficient. Ahh few days I have to go back to work, thank god, need to pay the bills for all of this stuff but that also sadly means no more free time.
 
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