Whittle Aero V8 WIP

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Tony, do the bolts that come up through the oil pan into the top deck of the engine get filed flush or just squared off?
George
 
Hi George,
The deck gets a radius cut tangent to that edge where the bolts come out. I'm just waiting till I have the front and back mounted to make the cut. It's like the oil pan but smaller and full length thru front and rear to match the profile (1/16dp 1/16R).

Tonight's fun
Radius the nose
IMG_1056.jpg


Using this setup (fine adjustment tools in the backround)
IMG_1059.jpg


IMG_1057.jpg


The inside
IMG_1061.jpg


The outside
Don't know if those spot faces will stay
IMG_1060.jpg


IMG_1063.jpg


IMG_1064.jpg


IMG_1065.jpg


That's all folks

Tony

 
Thanks Dean,
The more I look at it (and I do look at it and pet it :big:) Brass bolts would add a nice contrast. I'm just not sure of their stress capability in this application. I'm pretty sure they'd be fine but.....

Tony
 
cobra428 said:
Thanks Dean,
The more I look at it (and I do look at it and pet it :big:) Brass bolts would add a nice contrast. I'm just not sure of their stress capability in this application. I'm pretty sure they'd be fine but.....

Tony

Sure can't blame you for giving it a fond caress.
Maybe George would know if brass cap screws would be strong enough. Are they 2-56?

Dean
 
Dean,
2-56 front and soon to be rear 0-80's up from the pan

Tony
 



Tony, Looking great.

Keep up the good work.


Ron
 
Now that's a set up!!! Great work on the radiusing Tony. As far as using brass, I wouldn't use it in a critical area. The tensile on brass is about 1/3 of CRS. Although I don't generally use socket head screws I think they would look good on an aircraft type engine. I think using stainless socket head screw would even be that much better.
George
 
Thanks George,
I forgot about the plans on the web. It would be a lot easier for you to look at them than me explaining about features in the parts. I can't use my hands to explain!!

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/news/article.asp?a=6070

Those are stainless Hex heads screws I'm using except for the pan those are steel soc heads I'd like to do something about that but no room for a nut driver spot face. Still thinking on that.

Zee,Ron thanks for your continuing support

Tony
 
compliments Tony, you're doing a very neat and beautiful work with this project :bow:

 
It is looking splendid - very nice indeed Tony. Very complex too! Hats off to you.

Nick
 
Thanks Jeff,
I working as fast as I can to get to the Radial !!!

Tony
 
You need a Concept Models 1/3 Fleet for that radial...would that be a BLAST...

Jeff
 
Hi Jeff,
I don't think I heard of Concept Models but you never know. Soon as I search I'll go....Oh Yeah. The radial is 1/4 scale. I was thinking of a 1/4 scale Stearman even though it had a P&W. Your right the Fleets had a J5. Decisions, decisions, decisions. I have a little time to think that one over. I need to make a DH-51 for the V8 too.
It looks much like a Gypsy Moth.

Got a little done tonight (very little)

Started the rear timing gear cover.

IMG_1069.jpg


IMG_1072.jpg


IMG_1073.jpg


IMG_1074.jpg

Pasted a 6mm drill rod from front to rear, went through like butter....thank god!

Time to do some CAD work to get the cords. I know it looks a bit large but I plan to cut the out line then saw the cover portion off, then cut the gear cavity's


Tony

image001.png
 
Tony, this is coming along beautifully. A scale DH-51 would be the bee's knees with that up front. :bow:
 
Mike Thanks,
I can hear that DH-51 just purrrring along now! Even though I'm a giant scale high power acro guy.....It would be nice!

Jeff I just thought of it WACO YMF! Even though it's cowled .....but sweet!

If anybody is interested I did some CAD work for the rear case coords.
PDF DXF attached

Tony

PS the below pdf and dfx no good. I realized that I didn't set the upper outside radii (.06) to the proper size to account for a washer. 0-80 washer .188d. I'll fix tonight

View attachment C__Drawings_Whittle V8_REAR CASE.pdf

View attachment REAR CASE.dxf
 

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