- Jul 4, 2012
- Reaction score
Sorry, I didn't notice that I was auto corrected. That should be 450 rpm's not romo's.
I haven't been on this forum for a while but saw you were starting to build the Upshur Vertical single. This was my first engine. Mine has run great for years and I took it apart this summer to do a rebuild on it.
I used the stock I had. This is what I found when I dissassembled it. I am planning to replace the bearings as well as the crank and rod. I am planning to use a bronze bushing this time. It's about .04 oblong and also the crank is undersized. I don't remember what steel I used but the new one will be 1144. Here is my earlier article on HMEM.
The way I had it set up it would spin 7500 rpm I used a fractional bearing for the cam and metric for the crank. Pulled out the inner seal on the inside and used splash lube. I had a leaded steel sleeve in the aluminum cylinder. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
aluminum stock is the thickness the plans call for. the top plate is within allowable thickness but not as thick as maximum thickness. but the side plates are .250.Looking at the last photo, if your aluminum stock is thicker than Hamilton specs you might want to make sure the rod clears it. As my redesign, the crank cleared but not with the rod installed. It is quite tight inside there. The .040" oblong in the rod was enough that the rod didn't quite clear the cylinder and the cam, worn as it was.
Art, I stand corrected, the side plates were .250 and the plans called for .125 as I discovered this weekend. so I milled them down to the .125 as called for. Thank you for pointing that out to me. I thought the plans called for .250 all the way around.Looking at the last photo, if your aluminum stock is thicker than Hamilton specs you might want to make sure the rod clears it.
Yes, that should work. Mind you, Brian can get all four corners finished on that monster of a sander before you or I could finish preparing the fixturing plate.i wasnt saying free hand when i was describing what i took from your post Brian. what i took from it is to make another plate just like the one im working with except on the corners move that hole to the center of that radius. then bolt the real part to that plate using the other 4 screw holes. then i have a plate i put in my mill vice which has a rod or dowel sticking up that i use to pivit on with that hole that is drilled dead center of the radius. that way i get a precise enough radius. ive seen you do it but i just cant find a picture to describe what im talking about. i to also have a belt sander with disk sander on the side with a table that i have used before and also i can use the same type of setup with a pivit pin on it as well but its just easier done in the mill vice and do it there. i hope i can find a picture soon and post it.