vernier calipers scare me

[kd0afk]

But I might learn if this caliper was as accurate as they say. ETALON 13" CALIPER. MADE IN SWITZERLAND!
It looks like a dang fine tool and I'm tired of chips and coolant ruining my calipers. Is this worth buying at this price? And will it serve me well?
They want $125 for it

 

[kd0afk]

This is the caliper.

 

[kf2qd]

Not a bad price for a quality tool. Are you using this instead of mics? or for measuring larger parts? If you are having problems with dial calipers - are you buying new or used? They do wear out and for many operations I use a cheap dial or digital and when I get close to finish I use my mics. (I do have mics from 0" - 6") because sometimes the mics are just too bulky for making measurements while roughing. If your calipers are breaking because of mis-use then may you need to learn some new habits. (Like I need to learn to clean up when I finish so I can find the tools I was using for then next project that comes up...) I have worn out several cheap calipers, but I have gotten my moneys worth out of them so I didn't feel thaey owed me anything. Maybe if I had treated them like they were of more value they might have lasted longer.

 

[dave-in-england]

.
The problem with those old-style "mechanical" verniers is that they are quite
difficult to handle and to read accurately down to 0.01 mm.

No one wants them any-more.
This one in the picture is way over priced for something the owner does not want any more.
He has probably bought himself a cheap digital vernier.


Why not buy a small digital vernier for $ 10 ?

These are super accurate and easy to read, instant conversion from Metric to Ancient English,
and large digits for easy reading.

Chip proof and generally water proof if you don't hold them directly under the coolant, they wipe dry.

I have a collection of these, they have lasted for years in a production machine shop.

My more expensive models, Mitutoyo, etc, have a feel of quality about them,
more rigid and a few more features, but these cheapo models are just as accurate.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019O6OCO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

OR

for a slightly better Mitutoyo model, at 10 x the price

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C0ZPNO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


dave

 

[kd0afk]

My digital broke when I was changing the battery. One of the battery terminals broke off and I'm not good enough with electronics to fix it. The dial caliper got chips in the rack and hosed it. I keep my tools clean but things happen. I don't have that much money and even less to throw away on tools that break as easily as the ones I had broke. I'm very quickly learning the meaning of the phrase "can't afford to buy cheap tools" The dial caliper wasn't cheap.

 

[kd0afk]

So what kind of warranty do the higher end electronics come with?

 

[kd0afk]

I found an etalon black dial caliper 6" for $65

 

[gbritnell]

Here's the thing with calipers, dial, digital or the old style vernier, they are only 'get close tools'. Let me explain. The outside jaws need to be completely square to whatever you are measuring and sometimes that's a problem due to machine setup. The inside jaws are almost useless. I have Starretts, Mitutoyos and Brown and Sharps and each of them are only within .002 on the inside measurements due to the jaw configuration. Actually the depth portion of the calipers is about the most consistent measuring part of these tools. Don't get me wrong, I do use them but for accurate measuring I use micrometers, either depth, outside or inside types. Once you get the feel for snap gauges the use of these along with mikes can give you the most accurate readings.
As far as digital calipers go, I don't care what they advertise for accuracy, they just aren't that close.
Vernier calipers or vernier tools of any type are 'old school'. That doesn't mean they aren't accurate. If you have good eyes they are within .001, or a good magnifying glass.
Everyone has their favorite measuring tools but for dead on accuracy micrometers are about the best tool the average modeler can afford.
gbritnell

 

[kd0afk]

So, let me get this straight, we're going for accuracy here okay well that's different. HA-HA.
I did some figuring and for the cost of the vernier, I can get a 1"-6" set of micrometers, a good dial caliper and a set of telescoping bore gages. I think that would give me the accuracy I need.
Am I on the right track now?

 

[kd0afk]

But for an old school tool, you gotta admit they are awesome. I do like the fine tuning attachment. But I think I'll pass. Etalon makes a model one step up from this one that has micrometer type anvils for the outside side. They're $250. But for a cool vernier I REALLY like the gear tooth caliper.

 

[vascon2196]

One of the biggest measuring mistakes of my career was done with one of those damn things. I was measuring the outside diameters of a crankshaft for a 60 ton punch press. Instead of recording the "outside" numbers I ended up recording the "inside" numbers so all of my measurements were SHORT by 0.100".

I have stayed clear of them since then.

 

[Cogsy]

.
Why not buy a small digital vernier for $ 10 ?

These are super accurate and easy to read, instant conversion from Metric to Ancient English,
and large digits for easy reading.

I bought a set identical to these and mounted to the Z on my mill/drill for a poor mans DRO. They simply will not hold any sort of accuracy at all. For example, if I zero then slowly (or quickly, doesn't matter) feed the quill 2mm down, I will have a reading somewhere between 0.5mm and 95mm. They are very prone to just random jumps, positive or negative. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

Having said that, I did try and check them before I mounted them and they appeared to work fine, but as soon as they were on the mill they went haywire.

 

[mu38&Bg#]

I have one like this and have used it for probably 15 years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-craftsman-caliper-with-case-no-40161-made-in-germany-/181261980463 Not my listing and don't know whose it is. I like it because it has imperial and metric scales.

 

[kd0afk]

I'm buying a dial caliper cause I really like them and a vernier for backup. I have had three or four digitals over the years and they just die. I like the verniers for the same reason engineers like slide rules. Accuracy and dependability. One moving part no electronics to break, no gears to jam. And hey, they make a magnetic magnifying lens for us old blind guys.
I think these will be the last tools for a few months.

 

[kd0afk]

I have one like this and have used it for probably 15 years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-craftsman-caliper-with-case-no-40161-made-in-germany-/181261980463 Not my listing and don't know whose it is. I like it because it has imperial and metric scales.

Speaking of Craftsman, haven't they just gone to crap? Wish I could just buy one of these in their store here in town. I couldn't even find a hacksaw blade at Sears the other day. Not even an empty hook.

 

[Sshire]

As George said, they get you close. My Etalon 6" dial caliper is one beautiful piece of Swiss stainless steel. When I got the Etalon, I had looked at the Starrett (not made in Athol anymore. China only.) but plastic dial rings...
The Etalon (sometimes labelled Brown & Sharpe or Tesa) has a real metal dial ring, and thumb wheel. No thumb wheel on 6" Starretts anymore.

 

[dave-in-england]

So what kind of warranty do the higher end electronics come with?

With the Mitutoyo, you will get a year's warranty.
With the cheapy, you get a free battery or two !

 

[mu38&Bg#]

The local Sears has good stock on tools. My father gave me this caliper. I have a Brown and Sharpe dial caliper, but I think it's time to get a digital. I have mics and bore gages for the critical stuff.

 

[dave-in-england]

I bought a set identical to these and mounted to the Z on my mill/drill for a poor mans DRO. They simply will not hold any sort of accuracy at all. For example, if I zero then slowly (or quickly, doesn't matter) feed the quill 2mm down, I will have a reading somewhere between 0.5mm and 95mm. They are very prone to just random jumps, positive or negative. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

Having said that, I did try and check them before I mounted them and they appeared to work fine, but as soon as they were on the mill they went haywire.

Probably because they were not intended to be clamped to a milling machine
The guide rails were being twisted out of alignment.

 

[Swifty]

Funny enough, in the 70's we only had the genuine "vernier" calipers. We had to learn to read them and trust them, although we had micrometers for fine work. No digital readouts either, the best we had were "optical readouts", which worked on an engraved glass scale and a magnified viewing attachment that had a graduated thimble to get the final precision. Now I'm sounding like an old fart.

Paul.