Vacuum Rotor (Flame Licker Made in ohio)

[Ctmouse]

I am very new to this I saw my first flame licker engine a few weeks ago on utube had have one so I purchased this one on ebay it seems to be in good shape (I am a machinist by trade but I now work in clinical engineering in hospital so this means I do not have all the machines at my disposal any more just the basics) I removed the piston and as I retract it by hand I can fill the vacuum that is created. I will mic the bore and piston later after it cools down. My problem is that I am unable to get this one to run I can see the flame being drawn in as I turn it over but no luck. Yes I am using denatured alcohol for fuel. I did notice that counter clockwise it will spin for several revolutions as when i try to spin it cw (towards the front) I can fill compression

any thought on what it might take to get this running would be a great help.

Thx
???

 

[kcmillin]

Ctmouse, There are many different types of flame eater engines, each with their own characteristics.

Could you post some pictures of the engine, and maybe even a video would be very helpful in trying to diagnose the problem.

If you can adjust the timing, the valve should close about 25-45 degrees before bottom dead center. This is to allow the hot gas time to cool down and contract.

Also, welcome to the forum.

Kel

 

[cfellows]

I believe the Rotor has a check valve on top of and at the front of the cylinder. It's looks like a steam whistle. This is designed to vent excess pressure as the piston nears the top of the stroke. If that check valve is stuck closed it will keep the engine from running.

Chuck

 

[Ctmouse]

First off I am not sure how to attach a photo And I thought I was pretty computer literate!
Yes Chuck you are correct and eveything is free and working as it should the whistle even peeps when I try to start it but it wont run I tried to pre heat the motor even as this is a big piece of cast iron. I checked the valve face and the tension from the reed plate being appied to the valve itself to be sure that it is tight against the cyl.
Mechcanily all seems to be good. But I must be missing somthing.
Thx
I will try to post a photo of this yet today.

 

[Ctmouse]

Also Kel I did get a pic out there You cannot adjust anything on the timing as it is fixed There is a cam follower and the cam is cast in the flywheel hope this answers some questions.
Thx

 

[kcmillin]

Also Kel I did get a pic out there You cannot adjust anything on the timing as it is fixed There is a cam follower and the cam is cast in the flywheel hope this answers some questions.
Thx

OK. When you turn the engine over, does it turn over smoothly, without any sticky spots?

Also, does the engine turn over for a longer period of time when there is a flame present?

Is there any type of lubricant?

Kel

 

[Ctmouse]

Yes very smoothly There is a oiler I tried with and without any oil (3in1) It seems to me just a little longer with the flame. Also when turning it CW I only get a half of turn as to CC its rotates more. Does direction matter?
Thx

 

[cfellows]

I've gotten flame suckers to run on coleman fuel when they refused to run on alcohol. Coleman seems to put out a brighter and hotter flame.

Chuck

 

[Stan]

In all of the previous threads on flame lickers. there are comments on flame position. I have two flame lickers and the location of the flame is critical to get them started. Once running, small movement of the burner varies the speed by a marked amount. I had no luck with oil in the cylinder as the flame turns it gummy. I use powdered graphite from the lock and key shop.

 

[Ctmouse]

thx both I will try that next Coleman and Graphite

 

[Blogwitch]

Is that a lump of graphite being used as the sliding seal?

If it is, it looks to be in definite need of replacement, it seems to be burned around the edges, in which case it just might not be sealing well enough.

I have just bought a modern day casting kit that uses a block of graphite for the sealing trap, and it states in the destructions, as it is running, a minute portion of the graphite is worn off the seal and that lubricates the engine as it is sucked in on the inlet stroke.

I would suggest you give that area a good dose of looking at and a clean down, and if necessary obtain a new lump of graphite to replace the old one.

Hope this helps

Bogs

 

[Ctmouse]

thx and I did and I lapped the surface (Cast steel) and when I tried to get it going I see the flame being sucked into the chamber big time but no luck yet. I need to try the coleman fuel but that may have to wait a few days till I can get some.
But thanks all for the help so far and keep the ideals coming as I am open to all kinds of suggestions.

Thx

 

[Ctmouse]

Does any body know if there should be a spring under the whistle to hold the ball down that is acting as a exhaust valve?
To be sure that it is being seated on the return stroke? And if I make a new valve for the main opening what material can I use? Steel, cast iron, Graphite etc.

Thx Rick

 

[AlanHaisley]

Ctmouse,

I found this picture at oliverstimelesstoys. Looking at it, it's obvious that the flame director shield on yours is not set up right. Oliver may have additional information that would be helpful to you. I personally have never dealt with them, but they may help if just seeing this picture doesn't.

Alan

 

[Ctmouse]

The photo of mine is with the Sheild open. Its the same as the pic you have when I close it.

THX for the imput.

Rick

 

[kcmillin]

Rick, From what I have seen, there is not a spring holding the exhaust ball to the seat. That is not to say there isn't supposed to be one, but I believe that the negative pressure inside the cylinder should hold the ball in place until pressure inside the cylinder is greater than atmospheric pressure.

Have to taken this apart to clean it? Everything has to create a good seal.

Kel