Tailstock DRO

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

firebird

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Messages
1,143
Reaction score
8
Hi

During the course of my small boiler project.(still unfinished) I had many occasions where the drilling of blind or flat bottomed holes was required. Constantly removing the drill to measure the depth of the hole became a bit of a chore so I decide at the earliest opportunity I would fit a DRO to the tail stock. Before getting down to design and cutting metal I jotted down a few requirements.

1. It must be easy to use. Some gadgets are very pretty to look at and are technically brilliant but are often not that easy to use. In that case when its difficult to use its more often than not left in its box

2. It must be quick and easy to install and remove. Once again if its difficult I would manage without it.

3. It must have plenty of clearance around it and not interfere with the use of the tailstock.

4. It must not interfere with any other function of the lathe.

5. No modification of the tailstock at all. No drilling or tapping.

With these requirements in mind I set about designing and building the DRO. I'm not going to show any plans (Cos there aint any) or show any measurements. The DRO is shown being fitted to my Myford ML7 but should be easily adaptable to most lathes. The DRO itself is a cheap set of digital calipres which can be removed from the tailstock very quickly when required elsewhere. The mounting for the DRO is mostly 3/8 thick ally bar 1 1/2 & 2 inch wide.

2 pieces of ally cut to rough size

DSC07809.jpg


Clamped together vertically and drilledx through.

DSC07812.jpg


DSC07813.jpg


Note how the long stud goes through the centre of the vice I made

Tap the holes in the large part and drill the small half with a clearance drill

DSC07814.jpg


Make 2 studs

DSC07815.jpg


The 2 parts bolted together

DSC07816.jpg


In the 4 jaw chuck to drill and then bore out to 1 1/2 inch

DSC07817.jpg


DSC07818.jpg


DSC07819.jpg


DSC07820.jpg


DSC07821.jpg


Boring out the front piece

DSC07822.jpg


Then a trial fit on the tailstock

DSC07823.jpg


Cut a slot

DSC07824.jpg


Then cut out a corner

DSC07825.jpg


Drill through

DSC07826.jpg


Then tap

DSC07827.jpg


Another trial fit

DSC07828.jpg


Drill 2 holes

DSC07829.jpg


Drill 2 corresponding holes and tap

DSC07830.jpg


The front piece has a slot milled in it to accept the calipres and the has some of the excess metal cut away

DSC07833.jpg


2 holes drilled and tapped for the clamp

DSC07836.jpg


The thumbscrew bracket being drilled

DSC07837.jpg


Turning the thumbscrew

DSC07839.jpg


All the parts

DSC07840.jpg


All the parts assembled

DSC07842.jpg


Heres a couple of videos





I need to make a thumbscrew for the front clamp and do away with the cap head bolt, no tools will then be needed to fit the calipres into the clamps.

Cheers

Rich

 
That's a pretty neat idea Rich. Now I want to know what the pretty blue drill thingy is. I'm not familiar with it. I embedded a machinists rule into the top of the tail stock ram. Now I have to build something like you did.
Mel
 
Rich,

Very neat idea
idea1.gif


Best Regards
Bob
 
Hi

Finished it off today by making another thumb screw, now no tools atre needed to fit or remove.

DSC07843.jpg


DSC07844.jpg


Cheers

Rich
 
Rich

That was an excellent write up.

I have been thinking on and off for quite a while about putting a DRO on my S7 tailstock and had been looking at the horizontal scales and trying to work out a neat way of installing same. Using your idea of a set of calipers is much neater (and cheaper) than anything I have come up with.

Thanks for the idea.

Dave
The Emerald Isle
 
Like so many of the Chinese import lathes, mine has a tailstock with a flat top.

I bought one of those magnetic backs for a 2" DI and stuck it on top of the TS. Its tip bears against a vertical plate that clamps to the TS ram (much as Rich has done).
 
Very nice. Here's one I made for my 12x36 after reading of Cedges a while back. Works pretty well, though it's still a little bit half-assed-- I put it to work right away versus tidying it up, and it was planned out and built by sorta squinting a little and firing up the mill. "Hmm.. let's try this... ok, that sorta works, but now we need a hole here.. and here...and oops.. maybe one there.." :D

I also note Grizzly has a 'Tailstock DRO" (you make the ram-ring) in their latest catalog, which is a more refined version of the same thing including a separate display

You'll probably want to take the sharp tips off the backside of the caliper if you dedicate it to the job. I blunted mine, but still should take more off..



TailstockDRO.JPG
 
Tailstock DRO's seem like really handy gadgets.

I don't have real multi-axis DRO's on any of my machines, but it seems like I have a DRO for whatever the axis closest to the work is:

- A quill DRO for the mill.

- A compound DRO for the lathe.

I use those two very often. A tailstock DRO would make a nice addition to that lineup and looks easy to build.

Best,

BW
 

Latest posts

Back
Top