Snow Engine

[dnalot]

Hi

Are those plans for sale anywhere

I found the booklet online used. It was printed in 2010 by Village Press. The title

Build The Snow
A tandem, double-acting engine
By Doug Kelly​

Dougs engines can be seen at the craftsman museum - online

http://craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Kelley.htm


Here is a copy on amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=build+the+snow&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Abuild+the+snow

 

[dnalot]

Hi

The fuel tank is completed now. I deviated from the plan here and used a post and pedestal stand for the tank. The tank and the posts were sandblasted and then nickel plated. The pedestal, fuel cap and the bands were polished and nickle plated. The pedestals will be screwed to the base and the tank assembly just slips onto them.

Mark T

 

[dnalot]

Hi

The water tank I made from some salvaged brass. Rather ugly looking but then I expected that and it really didn't mater as I wanted to cover it with wood. I had some fine grained cedar that was dry as a bone so that's what I used. The finish has no UV protection so it should turn silver with age. I also built a lid for the tank so it can be kept covered when not in use.

Built the drip oil fittings and now have them mounted. They are dummies. The bushings were made from oil-embedded material that will only need an occasional drop of oil.

And I got started on the ignition system. Mounted the components to the bottom of the engine . Next I need to make the wheel that holds the magnets inside the distributor. The ignition system uses the hall effect. If anyone can tell me if the polarity of the magnets maters please let me know. Would save me some time figuring it out.

I plan on using Coleman fuel. I have a half gallon on the shelf. Sticker on it says I bought it in 1984. Hate to be wasteful but it would probably be wise to purchase some new fuel. 4” of new snow last night so its going to have to wait.

 

[Cogsy]

If anyone can tell me if the polarity of the magnets maters please let me know. Would save me some time figuring it out.

Polarity definitely matters. If you mount your magnet the wrong way you can turn the sensor over though.

Engine is looking great. I'm very much looking forward to seeing the video of it running.

 

[dnalot]

Thanks Cogsy

One of the four magnets that came with the kit has a red dot on one pole. I will assume that is the south pole and the one to orientate to the sensor. If I get it wrong I will need to change the magnets as the sensor is already glued to the distributor base.

Mark T

 

[Charles Lamont]

Does your household have a compass? (North pole of compass needle points at south pole of magnet)

 

[dnalot]

Hi

Does your household have a compass? (North pole of compass needle points at south pole of magnet)

No, but that thought came to mind. And then I thought I have a magnet so I can make one. Result tells me that the red dot does indicate the south pole.

Thanks

Mark T

 

[tornitore45]

Before mounting the magnet I run it next the sensor manually and look for the park or the LED I have on the General Purpose Ignition Box that shows the state of the switch, just to be sure since I can never remember whether the Earth North pole is North or attracts the compass North pole.

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

Some pictures of a gas engine in Luxenburg

https://blobsvc.wort.lu/picture/c6f...rtv3/0f5183c831c69734d58d53a7e1c94bb3ea648f7d

http://www.industrie.lu/arbeddifferdangeGasmaschinen.html

With a little luck I can count 32 poles on half the generator gap .
32 polepairs give 50 hz when generator runs 93.75 rpm.

 

[dnalot]

Before mounting the magnet I run it next the sensor manually and look for the park or the LED I have on the General Purpose Ignition Box that shows the state of the switch, just to be sure since I can never remember whether the Earth North pole is North or attracts the compass North pole.

I did just as you describe to prove the polarity before pressing them into place.


The magnets floating in water aligned with the earth's poles very quickly. Just fun to figure things out.

I now have the engines ignition system in place and I am getting spark at all plugs. Will have to wait till Monday to drive the 90 mile round trip to buy some fuel. My shop looks like a bomb wint off so I have plenty to do until then.

Mark T

 

[dnalot]

Some pictures of a gas engine in Luxenburg

Wow! looks like there were 6 of those engines back in the day. Thanks for sharing Niels.

Mark T

 

[tornitore45]

Holy moly 90 miles for fuel!

 

[dnalot]

Holy moly 90 miles for fuel!

On the bright side its only 15 miles round trip to the local tavern. And I never need to lock my doors when I'm not home.

Mark T

 

[dnalot]

Hi

Well its been a few days of two steps forward and one step back. The Strata distributor is not working out. It is way to brittle. First I broke the rotor but luckily I had a spare. Then I broke the body when I very gently tightened the tiny set screw to lock it in place. So to move things forward I made a new body from aluminum. I expect I will snap off the tiny ears that secure the cap next so I will be making a new one out of Noryl Ppo plastic. The S/S Machine SDI ignition is working great, the spark is able to jump .3125 inches with ease. After setting everything up I put some fuel in the tank and attempted to start the motor. Got some smoke coming out of the stacks and some popping noise but the engine would not run on its own. I see I have leakage where the valve cages mount to the heads. To fix that I will need to tear down the engine and try a different approach to sealing. I am tired now and all played out so I need to put this project aside for a bit and start again in a week or two.

Mark T

 

[dnalot]

Hi

Befor I take it apart I thought I should take some photos of the engine completed.

Mark T

 

[Rustkolector]

Mark,
You have done a beautiful job on your Snow so far. The starting disappointment is a bummer, but it happens more often than not in this hobby especially on an engine as complicated as the Snow. A slight break from your Snow project is a good idea. Does your flywheel have any compression bounce back when it stops. If it has any appreciable bounce back, it should run, everything else being ok. Set you plug gap to .019-.020". The oil in the fuel fouls plugs quickly especially if you use too much, or the wrong kind of oil in the fuel. Use 50:1 camp fuel to MMO initially, then go to 60:1 ratio after a few hours running. Don't use any 2 cycle oil. Set ignition timing at 2-3 degrees BTDC. Make sure distributor rotor is timed well with the spark wire posts. Listen for ignition shorts inside the distributor.

The valve cages should seal well as designed with just smooth machined surfaces. No special sealing should be needed. However, before you take your engine down, check to see if you have any shoulder radius interference on the underside valve cage shoulder. You might need to chamfer the combustion chamber valve cage bore hole where they mate up.

The Snow is a big displacement engine, but it works and starts best with a tiny RC carb. Preferably one with a throat bore of .120-.140", or even less if you can find one. You might also want to close the carb needle valve and try a small squirt of fuel thru each spark plug hole to see how it responds. Are you cranking by hand, or using a drill motor? It sometimes makes a big difference with a new engine.

I'll be watching for the video....

Regards,
Jeff

 

[dnalot]

Hi

Thanks for the info Rustkolector. It will be very helpful. I was using a drill motor to turn the crank. There is a one way bearing in the coupler. I have the right fuel, wrong oil. And yes there is some kickback to the flywheel.

Mark T

 

[dnalot]

Hi

Well I fixed the valve cage leaks and the engine now almost runs on its own. I made a compression tester from a tire gauge and found cylinders 1 & 2 read less than 15 PSI and cylinders 3 & 4 read 35 PSI (at 60 RPM). So its time to tear the engine down completely and re-ring the pistons and install new shaft seals. I plan to replace the cast iron rings with o-rings this time. Each of the two pistons have two rings now but I will probably just use one ring per piston this time around. The other fix needed is to slow down the water pump. It is flowing water faster than the gravity return system can handle.

Still a lot of meat on the bone for this project.

Mark T

 

[Rustkolector]

Mark,
O-rings work on the Snow, however, you will need a very smooth polished cylinder to get any life out of them. I would encourage you to stick with the cast iron rings. They get better with use, but O-rings don't. An O-ring replacement is a big job on the Snow. 3 and 4 cylinders are excellent and I would leave them alone. Fix 1 and 2. The latter piston and rod can be removed easily without complete tear down unless you really think the seals need replacing. Check the front piston for ring side clearance and the ring cylinder face wear pattern. They might not be sealing on their full circumference.

The coolant overflow is annoying because it is so speed dependent. It can be easily managed by changing from a gravity drain to a forced drain system. Easily done by adding short pieces of clear Tygon flexible tubing to the coolant discharge elbows making sure the tubing is long enough that it seats firmly and squarely inside the drain funnel.

Keep going.

Jeff

 

[rustyknife]

I am in awe. Your engine is a work of art. I cannot wait to see the video of it running!