Riveting?

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shred

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A quick search didn't turn up anything, and a model project I'm contemplating has a lot of small riveting (rivetting? rivitting?) on it, both decorative and for fastening; mostly under 1/8".

Are there any good sources for information on basic small-scale riveting and/or tips/tricks/tools for it? I think I have the concept but haven't done any for real-- is this a skill you learn after doing 3 of them? 30? 300? 3000? Bag it and just solder everything? ;)

Thanks

 
Cool, thanks. Odd that it didn't turn up in a couple searches.

I was thinking of hammering them as that seemed traditional, but pressing them has some merit that needs thinking about.

 
I make hundreds of 1/8 stainless steel rivets with with 1/16 hole drilled in the end and set them under a press using a tool with an included angle of 90 degrees pressing into the hole this just flairs it out nicely into a countersink and you have a pilot hole to drill it out again if you need to.

 
I tend to use a rivit snap and hammer, a couple of blows will easily form the head on 1/16" rivits, did several hundred on the traction engine in my avitar. And am about 2/3rds through the 1000 or so on the current traction engine , these range in size 1/16, 3/32 & 1/8 in copper, ally and steel. There are 244 in each rear wheel!!

Rivit squeezers and spinners can make it easier but you need easy acces to both sides of the rivit.

Best tip is to keep the preformed head on the side that shows the most if possible and practice, practice, practice.

Jason
 
Jasonb said:
these range in size 1/16, 3/32 & 1/8 in copper, ally and steel. There are 244 in each rear wheel!!

Best tip is to keep the preformed head on the side that shows the most if possible and practice, practice, practice.

Ummm ... where do you get 1/16" rivets? 3/32" and 1/8" are easy but I haven't seen any smaller than that.

Best regards,

Kludge
 
Ummm ... where do you get 1/16" rivets? 3/32" and 1/8" are easy but I haven't seen any smaller than that.

Best regards,

Kludge
Rudy's Steam Tractor book suggests using 18-gauge brass escutcheon pins (aka: dome-head nails). Pretty much every store here has crappy brass-plated steel pins instead of real brass ones.
 
shred said:
Rudy's Steam Tractor suggests using 18-gauge brass escutcheon pins (aka: dome-head nails).

Cool. Thanks. I tagged that as a saved search (adding yet another to a massive quantity of them!) so I can go back to it later on.

BEst regards,

Kludge
 
It is best if you can find an old style hardware store that carries these type of things. They are getting fairly rare. Some escutcheon pins have a taper under head and don't work so good for rivets.
Brass Escutcheon Pins at site below look good in the picture.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1943

A squeezer made from cheap import locking pliers. Part close to hinge is cut out to be able reach farther into material. Dimples made by first make a drill dimple in one jaw and them put small ball (from ball bearing) in dimple and closing to mark other jaw. Drill dimple where marked. Open pliers heat jaw tips hot, insert ball, clamp shut and tap with hammer.
ViseGriptoolsrivetset2.jpg


To use squeeze and rotate pliers to form second head. "Rivet needs to be correct length to form a nice looking head.
ViseGriptoolsrivetset.jpg

 
Ummm ... where do you get 1/16" rivets

All the usual model engineering suppliers in the UK keep 1/16" snaphead rivits, you can also get them in a smaller choice of materials in 1/32nd & 3/64ths. Escution pins tend to have a flatter head than a snap head rivit, at least the ones available here and a lot are electro brass plated.

Jason
 
Jasonb said:
All the usual model engineering suppliers in the UK keep 1/16" snaphead rivits, you can also get them in a smaller choice of materials in 1/32nd & 3/64ths.

Hmmm ... wonder if there is a supplier in the colonies. Or in the Kingdom of Hawaii, for that matter.

BEst regards,

Kludge
 
Kludge said:
Ummm ... where do you get 1/16" rivets? 3/32" and 1/8" are easy but I haven't seen any smaller than that.

Best regards,

Kludge

Reeves or Small parts have them (or used to) down to 1/32"
 
Loose nut said:
Reeves or Small parts have them (or used to) down to 1/32"

Cool. Thanks! I shall see what sort of mischief I can cause there.

BEst regards,

Kludge
 
Most engineering suppliers here in the UK can supply rivets. As said it is about practice.

Getting the right length is important and I generally use slightly under the diameter of the rivet - I find this gives a reasonable head.

Never tried to do it hot and like aluminium rivets because they are so easy - Do the Demo with aluminium then issue the kids with steel rivets to practice!!! :)

As a last resort you could solder it all up and apply lentils to the surface as false rivet heads & paint. But then you would know!.

 

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