Re: First Engine No Plans.

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Thanks for the replies.
I am using a metal lathe.
I think Tin Falcon has me going in right direction. I was trying to think of some suction fixture and the two sided sticky tape I will try. I have the two plates turned down to 1/8. And, I have a 4 jaw, but, I couldn't think of a way it could be held in the jaws and turned to a round disk and it work. I didn't want the disk to come flying out or jam up and X**%^& in the chuck. Just as well start over with a round plate as I should have started with to begin with.

I will do very very light cuts.

As for cutting, I will use a metal blade in wood bandsaw. Alum seems to be 'sticky' and will grab very quickly.

I do appreciate the suggestions.

I will have more questions to come. And, you may very well be correct on this item for a first project. But, it looked so simple and I thought, wow - my granddaughter would get a bang out of seeing that.

We will see. I look at it as everything I do is a learning experience. So will make it though, lots will probably make it to the junk pile and add to experience.

I'll let all know how it turns out.

Thanks again.
Jim
 
here are the current stats.

statsfeb908.jpg
 
This is getting a bit OT and is really more of academic interest than practical application.

I bought a batch of cheap BXA tool holders a while ago, most of them were too tight for the tool post. The tight fit was not a major a problem, it was just a matter of rubbing the faces of the holders on a sheet of 80 grit wet and dry until they came right.

But my enquiring mind can't figure out a formula to mathematically determine how much too tight the tool holders were/are. Given that I have the dimensions of the 60° dovetails by measuring across a pair of rounds, plus the height of the male and the depth of the female, how do I calculate the amount that needs to come off the face of the tool holder?

Its got to be something to do with calculating the width of the opening in the tool holder and comparing it with T for the post as shown in Bob Warfield's post.
 
I'd had the same idea, there's a few challenges, but i don't think they are insurmountable. 1) unless you're using a hepa filter, it doesn't solve the carbide grinding problem and 2) its potentially a bad idea sending sparks into a container of dust or a plastic hose. 3) they have no where near the required cfm

with a hepa filter and enough hose length that a spark would never make it that far 1&2 are taken care of.

the real question though is, does it have enough air flow to be effective? i sort of suspect no. A backup plan would be some sort of blower venting to outside. cheap squirrel cage blowers don't have the volume so i would need to be centrifugal. shops vacs are maybe a couple of hundred cfm on a good day, squirrel cage in the high hundreds but commercial grinding dust collectors seem to be in the 1000's

the other thought was even though the vac doesn't have the airflow by traditional standards, might it be possible to use the momentum of the waste to redirect it into the hose? if the collect was positionable and shaped such that the particles just on their own energy ended up the hose the vac could take it from there. i thought this worth trying and started on the sheet metal work work to make some dust collecting shrouds for my T&C grinder....yet another partially finished project in the stack



 
I've found one of these type of http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=201-2536&PMPXNO=953096&PARTPG=INLMK3 el cheapo 2 axis tables with an el cheapo vice to be very useful for accurately bringing your punch marks to the correct postion under the drill bit.

As was mentioned above, the good old low tech drill press is quite a dangerous piece of machinery unless your work is well held. Another advantage of the 2 axis table and vice is that you can properly secure the work and still have the fine adjustment that you need to line things up.
 
I saw some quite intricate spoked flywheels on model engines recently, and talked to the builder about them.

He had cast them himself in aluminium, and to give the flywheels rotational mass he had inserted steel and/or lead slugs in the rims. Quite clever I thought.
 
I'm checking the ways on my 14x40 for twist. I'm using an engineer's level whch is not zeroed for dead level but for what I'm trying to do I don't think that is important.

I've placed the level across the ways at the headstock and adjusted the level until the bubble is centred. Then I've gone to the tailstock end and packed the low end of the level (4 thou) to get the bubble centred again.

Is that about it for twist? Any comments?

Its interesting to very gently lever up and down on one corner of the lathe and watch the bubble shoot up from one end to the other. Who would have thought there was that much flex in what looks like a fairly solid casting.
 
If you want to e-mail to me, I will have a go at them.

Those are pretty cool!


Eric
 
This is a direct quote from an email I just received from Enco. ;)

"Take advantage of this Free UPS Shipping Offer...just enter WBAP8 in the
promo code box on the shopping cart page at use-enco.com, or mention
the code to your friendly sales associate when you call to order at 800-USE-ENCO.


*Free Shipping and Free UPS Shipping refer to standard ground shipments to locations
within the 48 contiguous U.S. states only; AK, HI, US territories and international
shipments are specifically excluded from these offers. On truck shipments, liftgate
and other non-standard services will incur an additional charge; call for details.
Enco reserves the right to limit or discontinue Free Shipping promotions.
Free UPS Shipping offers are limited to shipments under 125 lbs. and cannot be
combined with other promotional offers from Enco"


Rick
 
Damascening mainly refers to metal inlays, but I'm sure I have also seen engine turning referred to as damascening.
 
Liverpool, the home of the Beatles is in fact a multi cultural city. It has been a major seagoing port for centuries and all the flotsam and jetsam from around the world has ended up there, also it was the main port of entry for the Irish population trying to escape the ravages that were going on in their country for hundreds of years.
So they ended up with a unique language that is really only understood by themselves, a sense of humour that would get the recently deceased laughing, and a reputation for being out and out cheeky scoundrels.

Liverpuddlians (their correct name) are generally known throughout the UK as 'Scousers'.

So what you see on the 'telly' isn't really what it is like down the side streets and back alleys.


If it isn't bolted down, someone will steal it, in fact if it is bolted down they will try anyway.

liv1.jpg



If anything with wheels stops for more than 30 seconds, the wheels will be gone. Even stopping at traffic lights has its dangers.

liv2.jpg



If a Scouse 'Chavette' (look up in google) hasn't got a couple of kids in tow by the time they are sixteen,they would be classed as infertile.

liv3.jpg



Enough said on this one.

liv4.jpg



Cheap or free is very acceptable.

liv5.jpg



Scousers class being on unemployment benefit as legitimate 'work'. Real work interferes with their social life too much, football, drinking, football, stealing, football.

liv6.jpg



Remember what I said about standing still for more than 30 seconds.

liv7.jpg



Their gypsy like background is very hard to shake off, and will try anything to get more duty free when they come back off a package tour to Spain.

liv8.jpg



They start on promiscuity at a very early age. 12 or 13 would be classed as a maiden aunt.

liv9.jpg



A couple of the jovial fellows you are liable to meet in this European City of Culture 2008. Just hope you don't meet them down a back alley.

liv10.jpg



There is always another side to the story.

John
 
Seeing as how most rail in the US is owned by the railroad itself, trains run on whichever side gets it from point A to point B the most conveniently for the railroad. The engineer sits to the right side of the cab in the few engines I have been in. Been that way from steam days. Have a double track a mile from the house and have had fast and slow trains on either track and going in either direction (just not at the same time...)
 
Had a Mercedes 220D Diesel a few years ago. Had to do major head repair after running it dry onetime... Had to make a tool to pull the pre-chambers for the Bosch Injectors and the threads didn't match anything on my metric pitch gages, so I grabbed the english set and they matched perfectly. Don't remember the pitch, but made the tool to pull the nut that holds the pre-chamber in and made the adapter for the slide hammer to pull the pre-chamber. Now why weren't they a metric thread?
 
This place will be able to satisfy the long looked for bit of this or that the local big box store doesn't carry.
From Carbon Fiber tubing to run your wicks,through. Graphite and graphite adhesives that work To the following.
Fuel cells

* Composite bipolar plates
* Graphite bipolar plates

Bushings, bearings, vanes

* Blanks - antimony filled molded carbon-graphite rods
* Blanks - antimony filled molded carbon-graphite tubes
* Blanks - babbit filled molded carbon-graphite rods
* Blanks - babbit filled molded carbon-graphite tubes
* Blanks - extruded carbon-graphite rods
* Blanks - graphite plates for dry running vanes
* Blanks - molded carbon-graphite plates
* Blanks - molded carbon-graphite rods
* Blanks - molded carbon-graphite tubes (HT to 1200°F)
* Blanks - resin filled molded carbon-graphite plates
* Blanks - resin filled molded carbon-graphite rods
* Blanks - resin filled molded carbon-graphite tubes
* Dryer bearing assemblies
* Dryer bearing inserts

Crucibles, molds, ingots

* Graphite and ceramic stoppers
* Graphite ingots
* Industrial graphite crucibles (4"DIA and up)
* Jewelry graphite crucibles (2"DIA and up)

Plates, rods and tubes

* Graphite blocks - medium extruded
* Graphite plates - coarse extruded
* Graphite rods - fine extruded

EDM Graphite

Pyrolytic graphite

* Pyrolytic graphite discs
* Pyrolytic graphite plates

Powders and lubricants
Coatings and adhesives

* Graphite adhesives (to 5400°F)
* Graphite coatings (to 3200°F)

Insulation and gasketing

* Flexible graphite sheet
* Flexible graphite sheet, reinforced
* Insulation fiber boards
* Insulation fiber boards, foil on one side (FOS)

Gouging rods

Carbon Fiber Laminates

* Unidirectional laminates, zero° layup (.003 - .021 thick)
* Unidirectional laminates, zero° layup (.030 - .060 thick)

Rods and tubes

* Unidirectional pultruded rectangular bars
* Unidirectional pultruded rods
* Unidirectional pultruded tubes
* Unidirectional pultruded tubes, tapered
* Unidirectional roll-wrapped tubes

Carbon Brushes
by Application or Size

* Thickness between 0.000 and 0.188
* Thickness between 0.189 and 0.250
* Thickness between 0.251 and 0.375
* Thickness between 0.376 and 0.500
* Thickness between 0.501 and 0.625
* Thickness between 0.626 and 0.750
* Thickness over .750

Part Number

* Tool Brush Kits

Motor Manufacturer
Tool Manufacturer
Tool Type
* Tool Brush Kits

Technical Ceramics
Labware crucibles
Plates, rods & tubes
Adhesives and epoxies

* Alumina adhesives (to 3000°F)
* Aluminum nitride adhesives (to 3000°F)
* Electrically and thermally conductive adhesives
* Graphite adhesives (to 5400°F)
* High temperature epoxies - General Purpose
* High temperature epoxies - Maintenance & Repair
* Magnesium adhesives (to 3200°F)
* Ultra high bond strength epoxies
* Ultra high temperature epoxies
* Washaway mounting adhesives
* Zirconia adhesives (to 2500°F)

Coatings

* Coatings for heaters, ovens and furnaces (to 2000°F)
* Coatings for process equipment (to 1500°F)
* Electrically and thermally conductive coatings (to 1200°F)
* Refractory coatings for metals, glasses and plastics (to 3200°F)
* Specialty coatings for electrical and electronic devices (to 2600°F)
* Specialty sealants (to 1450°F)
* Thermal spray sealants (to 400°F)

Castable and repair pastes

* Ceramic-Metallic repair pastes (to 2000°F)
* Chemical-setting ceramics (to 2800°F)
* Hydraulic-setting castable ceramics (to 3200°F)

Furnace tubes

* Alumina Tubes - Closed One End
* Alumina Tubes - Open Both Ends
* Sialon Tubes - Open Both Ends

Sealing tapes, ropes, etc.

* Ceramic fiber braids - round
* Ceramic fiber braids - square
* Ceramic fiber cloth
* Ceramic fiber ropes - high density
* Ceramic fiber ropes - twisted 3/ply
* Ceramic fiber sleeves
* Ceramic fiber tapes

Thermal greases

http://www.graphitestore.com/index.asp
 
:) ;D ;D

Hi Alan, and welcome to the mad house, how are things going in the Epping,Loughton, Buckhurst hill area these days?
One things for sure....now that your local model shop is closed....and Brian (my old mate) ain't around to take your cash....you will have LOADS more to spend on MACHINING and ENGINES.... ;D ;D ;D :p...I am sure the guys on here will help you spend some of it....HE He.

Yes, most of the cheepo grinders are pretty much the same....rubbish......

A good grinder needs to have substantial, adjustable, tool rests and one of the best at the moment is the 6" (or 8") ARBOGA machine available from 'AJAX Machine tools'

www.ajax-mach.co.uk

These have fully adjustable large size supports , unlike the small flimsy things you get on the cheaper grinders.

Another good grinder is the 6" or 8" heavy duty model available from WARCO

www.warco.co.uk

These also have a heavier tool support, fully adjustable, but not quite as large as on the ARBOGA machines.

Both come with a medium and fine pair of wheels (Aluminium oxide type).

If you need to sharpen CARBIDE tools then you need to get a FINE green grit wheel....available from 'CHRONOS'

Hope this helps.

regards.

SandyC :D ;D
 
One other difference between the US & Britain - due to the large area covered and the population differences you guys only see the shows that get publicized outside of their home area. There are a lot of small antique power shows scattered around the US that draw quite a mix of displays - from the steam tractors and old iron down to the guy traveling in an old bus setup to display his steam models. Most of these shows don't get much publicity outside of the local paper. I have been to shows that had everything from models of steam and gas engines, to 1/4 to full size steam, antique & classic tractors, old truck & cars, (Even an old electric dock truck) to home-made tractors and other vehicles. If you didn't live in western NY or North Western Pennsylvania you wouldn't have heard anything about it. County fairs have their old tractor display (and often model collections)
 
The truth is that most of us have to buy some Chinese stuff just to have tools that we can afford to buy. Heck both my lathe and mill are Chinese. What I have found out is: that some, not all the Chinese stuff will work for the casual use of the home shop machinist if not pushed too hard.
The scary thing is, if we continue to drive all our manufacturing across the pond to China and then get into a war like WWII, who the hell is going to make our stuff? We won’t have any manufacturing capabilities left here in the USA.
I try to buy what ever USA tools I can find at Yard and Garage sales, and on line, just so I don’t have to depend on the Chinese all the time. I think we are digging ourselves in to a hole that none of us want to be in.
Just a thought
Mel
 
Pocket Ref
by: Thomas J Glover
Sequoia Publishing small format paperback
copyright©1997 2nd.ed.
ISBN# 1-88507-00-0

Two more reference books that covers so many things that we need to know and can't seem to find fast. This one was the first version put out. Covers various things and item around the shop, and home.

* Air and Gas
* Carpentry and Construction
* Chemistry and Physics
* Constants, Chemical,Physical and Math
* Electrical
* Electronics
* General Information and Science
* Geology
* Glue, solvents and Paint
* Hardware,Math, Money
* Mine, Mill and Aggregate
* Plumbing and Pipe
* Rope,Cable and Chain
* Steel and Metals
* Tools and Water
* Weights and properties of Materials
* Welding
* And other stuff

It its revised every coupe of years. It does have drawings of items.
and it is set up in groupings of the above headers and some I didn't put in. A great general info base for not much money. Harbor Fright sells them. And a lot of places have them in the tool section or at the register as an impulse buy.
Books00032a.jpg


Handyman In your Pocket
Industrial maintenance edition
by Richard A Young
Thomas J Glover
Sequoia Publishing small format paperback
ISBN#1-88507-29-9
Copyright© 2001 1st ed

This version is twice as thick and set up and geared to the industrial or commercial side. Every section is expanded in coverage. They have added some and left some out.

* Anchors
* Belts,Pulleys and Gears
* Bolts and Threads
* Drafting Symbols
* Nails Spikes and Staples
* Pipe and fittings
* Pump and Tanks
* Sheet Metal, Plate and Wire
* Along with more


If you ever have wondered why there are so many different plug configurations this has the charts with drawings of them all or most of them that you would likely see.
In the Sheet Metal Plate and Wire section it covers

* Weights of cold rolled sheet steel
* Weights of galvanized sheet steel
* Steel plate sizes
* Standard steel sheet gauges
* Standard wire gauges


Measure for Measure
by Richard A Young
Thomas J Glover
Sequoia Publishing small format paperback
ISBN# 1-889796-00-X
copyright ©1997
Books00032b.jpg

This is the desk references for non math people, It covers the SI units, Which is the International system of units. Covers the history, both here and abroad along with the basics. (Metric info)
The rest is close to most every conversion formula out there. Whether its is ancient units of ones from other countries that have their own systems. Or if the guy that brought you the plans for the ramps for his ark did them in cubits. this will show you how to convert them back into something you can use.
It has a section that groups like measures together. It also has one on the Abbreviations used, along with conversion factors. Running close to 900 pages it is still a tool box sized book if need be.
 
Stefan -

Nice looking mill you have there. What Kind is it? Look forward to seeing how this project progresses.
 
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