If you're using the right blade ( correct TPI , type and speed) , you'll be fine. I always make sure that I keep minimum of 3 teeth in work at all times. I don't think slowing down speed would affect the blade life. I'm using 601 Haltbar Bi metal blade, I does cut good so far.
Old Rockwell Delta Wood Metal Bandsaw
- Thread starter mu38&Bg#
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I took the saw off the stand and cleaned most of the stand over the weekend. We should be getting some cooler weather in the next couple days so I want to get it prepped and painted. The table had some soft rust on on it but it looks great cleaned up.
Greg
Greg
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I am with Surfside. Only Bimetal will last and last. The cheapy M.I.C. won't survive HMEM barstock cutting.Two months' life maxed. I am forced to stay with Makita Bimetals which cost a bomb but latest saw blade in used for last 12 months and cutting very well on track. Came w/o a stand and cutting table. DIY vertical version.
Sawing speed can be dial-selected.
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Thanks for the info. Set at medium speed as dial is hard to get at with the DIY
housing. Am using my fingers to guide cutting on marked lines. Cutting skill now not bad and can cut on the line which means I don't have too much to skim off. ''71''' young Gus not panting away with manual hacksawing which I was never good in trade school.
I did some more prep today. I did something I never do. I went to Harbor Freight (because Menards didn't have what I needed) and bought a wire wheel and polycarbide wheel for the angle grinder. The polycarbide wheel is fast for paint and rust removal on flat surfaces, but grinds metal quite quickly. The wire wheel is good for any surface but shoots out little wire missiles, make sure you're wearing heavy pants and eye protection. Citrus degreasers remove/damage paint and Dawn Power Dissolver which I used to cut through some old cutting lube/grease/muck on a lathe part dissolved the paint on the band saw covers fairly quickly with less work than paint stripper. Some people use Dawn Power Dissolver to clean model engines which is why I had it. It's made for the kitchen to cut through baked on grease. I forget what's in, it but wear gloves. I stopped using it on model engines because it seems to soak into pores in casting were you can't even see any and shows up later as white spots. Maybe some photos tomorrow. And try to bid on some proper pulleys on Ebay.
Regarding the table, I do have Evaporust, but will probably just manually remove it. I have also done electrolytic rust removal in the past.
Gus, I did consider just what you did, but I do have the space, although it's running out quick and the wife complains that all the space is mine. It's time to move.
Greg
Regarding the table, I do have Evaporust, but will probably just manually remove it. I have also done electrolytic rust removal in the past.
Gus, I did consider just what you did, but I do have the space, although it's running out quick and the wife complains that all the space is mine. It's time to move.
Greg
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Hi Greg,
Fortunately my wifey boss is quite happy/contented with Gus safely in the house Mondays---Fridays and not at high sea fishing. So no territorial dispute. Still looking for a horizontal hands free bandsaw that does no take a lot of space or DIY a small mechanical hacksaw.For now the DIY Makita will do.
Fortunately my wifey boss is quite happy/contented with Gus safely in the house Mondays---Fridays and not at high sea fishing. So no territorial dispute. Still looking for a horizontal hands free bandsaw that does no take a lot of space or DIY a small mechanical hacksaw.For now the DIY Makita will do.
