Peter, look at the first page, first post of the thread and you will see the gear and the reason why it strips
Hi jason,Hello Brian and others
Little machine shop (littlemachineshop.com) carries metal replacement gears and parts for many of these import lathes and mills.
It may be worth a look. You can call them by phone also.
I have been very happy over the years with their service.
. Is there enough rom to use a wider gear, like stacking two gears?
These are made in plastic to deaden noise and vibration and work OK a until the day of the inevitable smash up when using a large cutter.
I have made replacements in both metal and Acetal (Delrin) with good results so message me if I can help
I looked up the onyx fiber spools snd material. It’s tough stuff if you can print it yourself it’s probably ok my as noted fixing one weak linnoften leads to another the motor and driver can be next and very difficult to replace the onyx is pretty good but if you have to have it done outside check prices it may be better to just keep a couple spare gears on hand .I suspect that the gear printed in Onyx fiber on my new Markforged printer would work well, as the material is about as strong as aluminum.
I have a little story to tell. I have a CX601 milling machine from Busy Bee Tools and I love it. This milling machine does everything I want, except drill 1" holes in aluminum. I don't do that very often, but when I do, it's mostly ornamental holes thru flywheel webs. And this is the point where my mill lets me down. There is a nylon compound gear in the gear-head, and it lets you put the mill into the equivalent of "back-gear" on a lathe. About every two or three years, this compound nylon gear manages to strip all the teeth of one side. It costs around $70 for a new gear, and it's a royal pain to take the mill apart and replace the bad gear. It doesn't happen all at once. When it first decides to eat that gear, it jumps out of gear into neutral. If you can spare a hand to hold it in gear, it works just fine, but sometimes I run out of hands to do that. It doesn't take much force to hold it in gear, and I'm sure that if it was held firmly in gear so that it couldn't jump out, then it wouldn't wreck the gear. So, today I'm designing a third hand to hold the mill in "back gear" while I drill large holes. In the pictures, you will see a side view of my mill where the gear selector knob is, another picture that shows my "third hand" in position, and in the third picture you can see a bad nylon gear and it's replacement good nylon gear.
I just ran into a carbon fiber print material called onyx it’s supposed t be stronger yet quiet running as a gear material . Stronger but still be the saftey valve
I 3d printed “emergency” gears in PETG and they’ve performed admirably. Sure beats having your Mini Mill down awaiting replacements!
I like the belt drive idea maybe you could get fancy and make a step belt drive . You could machine your own pulleys if none are conveniently available .
I can’t quite get the nylon/carbon fiber material to run consistently. I’ve even had trouble with ABS, but with PETG, while a bit more difficult than PLA, I can achieve acceptable results. This is especially true when I don’t have large interior voids where stringing still becomes semi-problematic occasionally. I just utilize a “brim”, set my perimeters to 4 or 6 and use a 50% to 70% infill. As long as my fan speed is set relatively low, I can achieve some pretty awesome lateral strength.
Of course I still order the correct part, but my machine is only down 15 to 20 minutes while I change out the gear. I’m still hoping to scrape together the cash to change over to a belt drive!